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How can I bypass door sensor on GE washer WLSE3150A0WW


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33 replies to this topic

#21 dogcomp

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 10:35 AM

When I did try turning the pulleys, I did not have the washer plugged in. Does it need to be plugged in for the brake to release?

I won't be able to get back to this until this evening. I'm in Tennessee on eastern standard time.  Gotta do the job thing right now. Thanks! 



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#22 fairbank56

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 10:51 AM

  No, doesn't need to be plugged in, brake release is all mechanical. You say the motor pulley seems to be spinning? Need to know for sure, when in spin mode and motor is running, does the pulley spin or not. If the clip on the bottom of the pulley is spinning but actual pulley is not, then the clutch is slipping, either because it's faulty, the belt is loose or something is preventing the transmission from spinning.

 

Eric



#23 electro_doc

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 10:52 AM

When I did try turning the pulleys, I did not have the washer plugged in. Does it need to be plugged in for the brake to release?

I won't be able to get back to this until this evening. I'm in Tennessee on eastern standard time.  Gotta do the job thing right now. Thanks! 

no.  It's safer when you try to move the big pulley clockwise to do it when it is not plugged in.  You could get hurt really bad if the motor started by accident when your hand was in there.  It is normal to meet some resistance when trying to spin the transmission.  Grab the pulley tight and turn it hard to release the brake and  spin the transmission.  At this point it's starting to look like all you need to do is  to tighten your belt.  If you have a new one, change it and tighten it to where you have just 1/2 inch of play when you wiggle it back and forth while it's on the pulleys.  You should have no resistance when you turn the pulley the opposite way as when the pulley turns the other way the washer will agitate.  It is very slow and maybe hard to notice that it is moving but don't worry about that, turn the pulley the other way and see if with a little force you can get the transmission to spin.  If you can get it to move, even just a little, then try changing the belt and making sure it is tight.  Then try the spin cycle using the washers power and see if it doesn't spin.  Good luck



#24 dogcomp

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 11:36 AM

Does the machine need to be plugged in when I try to turn the pulley to unlock the brake? It wasn't. I sure hope it doesn't have to be. Let me know. I am having to do the job thing right now so I can't try again until this evening. I am on eastern standard time. Thanks.


Sorry about that last repeat message. It didn't show up last time I logged on.

How do I tighten the belt. Remember, I am just a grasshoppa.



#25 fairbank56

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 11:37 AM

  We did let you know.



#26 electro_doc

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 01:39 PM

loosen the four   3/8" hex head nuts on the motor bracket and slide the motor toward the front till it is tight and while holding it tight, tighten the four bolts.



#27 dogcomp

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:02 PM

I have tried again to turn the transmission pulley and after a certain point I just can't get it to move. If I back off a little and give it a jerk, it makes a metallic clanking sound when it gets to the point where I can't move it. The motor pulley does move when I turn the transmission pulley so I don't think it is a belt problem.



#28 MicaBay

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:16 PM

I have tried again to turn the transmission pulley and after a certain point I just can't get it to move. If I back off a little and give it a jerk, it makes a metallic clanking sound when it gets to the point where I can't move it. The motor pulley does move when I turn the transmission pulley so I don't think it is a belt problem.

 

Depending on the sound of the noise, you may have something in the brake assembly malfunctioning.



#29 fairbank56

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:35 PM

  In order to see the brake release mechanism, you will either need to tilt the washer back and take the bottom panel off or use a mirror. When you rotate the pulley, the cam dog should rotate towards the brake hub dog and a gap should open up between the cam hub and brake hub. If this is happening, then the brake release is probably ok and if you rotate the pulley hard and fast and the metallic clanking sound you hear is the two dogs hitting each other, then the brake release is again, probably ok. This means something is jamming the inner tub from turning. Could be clothing between the tubs, a seized tub bearing, a worn split ring (drive block) or the inner tub hub is bad. A worn split ring or bad tub hub can causes the inner tub to rub against the outer tub preventing it from rotating. You will need to remove the agitator and inner tub to figure out the problem.

 

BTW, make sure the transmission pulley nut is tight. A loose nut can prevent the brake release from working.

 

Eric

 

GEspinmode.jpg


Edited by fairbank56, 11 November 2013 - 08:39 PM.


#30 electro_doc

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:42 PM

Depending on the sound of the noise, you may have something in the brake assembly malfunctioning.

It's been awhile since I've had one of these apart but as I recall it was a bit of a job.  You say you spent a lot of money trying to fix this washer.  What have you done so far?  It appears you have a drive train issue.  You need to take out the agitator and the inner tub to begin with.  You will be able to tell more when you get the top end apart.  This is possibly going to be a big job.  Let's hope it's something simple.  You will possibly need a special spanner wrench to get the tub out.  You may have a problem getting the agitator out as well.  You need to grab both sides of the agitator at the bottom edge and pull up hard to release it.  It snaps on to the transmission.  good luck



#31 electro_doc

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 08:48 PM

It's been awhile since I've had one of these apart but as I recall it was a bit of a job.  You say you spent a lot of money trying to fix this washer.  What have you done so far?  It appears you have a drive train issue.  You need to take out the agitator and the inner tub to begin with.  You will be able to tell more when you get the top end apart.  This is possibly going to be a big job.  Let's hope it's something simple.  You will possibly need a special spanner wrench to get the tub out.  You may have a problem getting the agitator out as well.  You need to grab both sides of the agitator at the bottom edge and pull up hard to release it.  It snaps on to the transmission.  good luck

didn't see your reply fairbanks.  I was replying at the same time and we sort of said the same thing in a different way.  I wasn't trying to add to yours it just happened that way.  Right on with the analysis.  I was just saying that if he doesn't get lucky this job may be a little to much.  I know what I'm doing and it's not easy.


  In order to see the brake release mechanism, you will either need to tilt the washer back and take the bottom panel off or use a mirror. When you rotate the pulley, the cam dog should rotate towards the brake hub dog and a gap should open up between the cam hub and brake hub. If this is happening, then the brake release is probably ok and if you rotate the pulley hard and fast and the metallic clanking sound you hear is the two dogs hitting each other, then the brake release is again, probably ok. This means something is jamming the inner tub from turning. Could be clothing between the tubs, a seized tub bearing, a worn split ring (drive block) or the inner tub hub is bad. A worn split ring or bad tub hub can causes the inner tub to rub against the outer tub preventing it from rotating. You will need to remove the agitator and inner tub to figure out the problem.

 

BTW, make sure the transmission pulley nut is tight. A loose nut can prevent the brake release from working.

 

Eric

 

GEspinmode.jpg

good one!



#32 dogcomp

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 09:27 PM

OK. Wow! I've had the agitator out of this machine a few years back. Hopefully I can do it again. Thanks for the directions on that. I pretty much tried to check for an odd piece of clothing caught between the tubs. Saw a note online where a guy found a pair of boxers in his. That was early on. But it doesn't hurt to double check. I guess its time to find some way to tilt this baby backward to get at the bottom. It may be a day or two before I can get to this since it gets dark so early nowadays. This is sounding **** technical but I'm going to give it a shot. Found a good washer on sale today - may have to consider that but I don't want to give in yet since you guys have spent so much time with me. Keep you posted. And thanks.

#33 dogcomp

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 11:26 AM

Well,you guys, I broke down and bougt a new washer Friday. I could not break loose the nut holding the basket in. I was able to borrow a spanner wrench from a friend and it just wouldn't budge. I tried several other options too. I even borrowed a wrench that had 2 posts on the end of it a friend told me to use by drilling holes into the nut and inserting the posts in the holes and bang it loose. Not a budge. When I first got in there, there was a chunk missing out of the nut, and I just wonder if possibly one of the times I had the washer serviced, the repairman didn't have a new nut to put on so they cemented it on with jb weld or something. Anyway, I sure learned a lot about washers during this time and think I could even replace a transmisison if I had to (if I could just get the darn nut off). Thanks, guys, for all your help. Sorry I copped out.



#34 fairbank56

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 02:31 PM

  Many times, the nut has to be cut off which is relatively easy as it's made of aluminum. You can use a dremel tool or chisel. Good luck with the new washer, what model did you end up getting?

 

Eric








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