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Fisher and Paykel DEIX2 won't heat


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7 replies to this topic

#1 skibum41

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Posted 09 November 2013 - 10:40 PM

I have a Fisher and Paykel top loading electric dryer model # DEIX2 that won't heat properly.  I have looked through many forums and posts, and done many of the basic repairs and suggestions.  The vent is clear, the thermostat is not tripped (I originally thought this was the problem and replaced it with a new one), I have tested the continuity on the heating coils and the new thermostat, both OK.  Am I missing something here?  When I start a cycle the heating coils will turn on for about 20-30 seconds and glow red, but then shut off and won't come back on.  If I let the dryer sit for a while and come back and try again, it will do the same thing.  Is there another control or circuit that cuts off power to the heating coils, beside the thermostat?



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#2 Applianceman97

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 02:35 AM

Are all the heating elements good? I think this model has 2. (Didn't look at the breakdown yet) I know the newer Electrolux machines have 3 elements in one housing and if one is bad the dryer will run for a short time then shit off. Haven't ran into this before on a f and p but maybe they use the type of system.
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#3 nickfixit

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 09:45 AM

If you run it with the vent hose not connected, do you have strong airflow coming out of the back? It sounds like you have an airflow issue, I would check and clean the entire air path in the machine. The area around the filter housing would be a good place to start. The heat elements on the F&P tend to sag and can short to case or the nearest coil.

 

The top load dryer is a total bitch to work on, It's design is completely alien to anything else on the market so to be careful not to force anything because plastic can be very unforgiving.


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#4 skibum41

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 12:09 PM

Are all the heating elements good? I think this model has 2. (Didn't look at the breakdown yet) I know the newer Electrolux machines have 3 elements in one housing and if one is bad the dryer will run for a short time then shit off. Haven't ran into this before on a f and p but maybe they use the type of system.

This model does have 2 heating elements.  I took apart the housing to visual inspect the coils and everything looks ok, like I mentioned before I do get continuity when tested (13 ohms on one, 30 on the other).  The second post here mentioned they tend to sag, and some of them looked a bit bent, but not touching.  Maybe when it heats up the coils touch and short out?  I tried to test again but when I put everything back together I get no heat from the coils now... maybe the coils are bad, might have to replace them.  I'll see what other ideas pop up, thanks!


If you run it with the vent hose not connected, do you have strong airflow coming out of the back? It sounds like you have an airflow issue, I would check and clean the entire air path in the machine. The area around the filter housing would be a good place to start. The heat elements on the F&P tend to sag and can short to case or the nearest coil.

 

The top load dryer is a total bitch to work on, It's design is completely alien to anything else on the market so to be careful not to force anything because plastic can be very unforgiving.

When the vent is disconnected I get very good airflow, so I don't think it is that.  I did take apart the filter assembly (thanks for the heads up on the plastic parts!) and cleaned it out, there wasn't much stuff caught in the filter to cause any air restriction.  I did take a look at the coils (as posted above) but now I get nothing, maybe there is a short somewhere in the coil I can't see, I may just have to replace them.  Thanks for your input!



#5 Applianceman97

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 02:17 PM

Did u test to see if it's shorted to the case with your meter? I have had many elements that look okay but is shorted. I know you have checked and may be a bit redundant but I have been burned by just a visual test.
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#6 J5

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 01:39 AM

the elements have been known to sag and short out

 

there is iirc 2 or 3 temp cuttouts in the front , 1 being a pushbutton reset

 

i would be looking at all of those , something is failing under load



#7 skibum41

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 12:33 PM

Did u test to see if it's shorted to the case with your meter? I have had many elements that look okay but is shorted. I know you have checked and may be a bit redundant but I have been burned by just a visual test.

Yes I checked this, thanks for the reply.  I think I have narrowed it down to one of the smaller thermostats on the heater housing (not the large resettable thermostat)



#8 skibum41

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 03:01 PM

the elements have been known to sag and short out

 

there is iirc 2 or 3 temp cuttouts in the front , 1 being a pushbutton reset

 

i would be looking at all of those , something is failing under load

There are 3 thermostats total on the front of the heater housing.  The larger pushbutton reset has been replaced (new), I think I have narrowed it down to one of the smaller non-resettable thermostats.  I order parts to replace both smaller thermostats, hopefully that does it, thansk for the reply!






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