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qiangbo

GE Frige PFS22SBSBSS not cooling

23 posts in this topic

Hi,

 

Glad to find a place like here. It seems to have a lot of resources to help someone like me.

 

Yesterday I found our refrigerator is not working. After around 10 hours, both compartments have a room temperature. I found the following things:

 

1. condenser fan is running very slow (1 rotation per second)

2. compressor is hot but touchable with hand.

3. condenser coil is only a little bit warm.

4. low pitch humming sound comes from the middle section of the frige.

 

 

The image is here

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4VEvFzHLRPIc21EaWdYNElLQkU/edit?usp=sharing

 

edit?usp=sharing

 

What could be the problem? Any help will be appreciated!

 

 

Bo

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Evaporator fan running? Is power going to the compressor? If so, I think your Condenser fan and compressor operation may be tied together. Check for a ptc relay problem. If no problem, test your Condenser fan motor. You can unplug the j2 connector from the board and see if compressor starts up. If it does, you may have to replace your board and a fan motor

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depending on the first (2) characters of your Fridge serial number

MotherBoard and / or Evaporator Fan Motor may be covered under a service bulletin

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Thanks!

 

I unplugged J2 but that didn't get the compressor going. I think the evaporation fan is working since air is coming out of the vent inside of the fridge. How to check if the Relay has problems?


By the way the SN starts with AM.d

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... How to check if the Relay has problems?

... By the way the SN starts with AM.d

1) OHMs between two of the pairs of pins on the Compressor should be about 5 OHMs

and the third set should equal the sum of the other (2)

The LINE and COMP (large) pins on the MotherBoard should have 0v AC across them when the Compressor should be running.

 

2) AM = Jan 2007 (after the service bulletin)

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1. condenser fan is running very slow (1 rotation per second)

 

 

 

Could be a bad condenser fan or bad voltage from muthaboard to the cond fan. Should be getting about 13 vdc if the board is good.  Can also hot wire the fan with a 9 v battery.  If it runs at full speed, bad muthaboard.  If it still runs slow, replace the fan.  

 

A slow running fan will also cause the compressor to feel very hot.  

 

Can measure the current draw on the compressor to verify whether or not it's running.  Should be about 1.3 amps.  

 

Parts:

 

Muthaboard:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075

 

Cond Fan:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Condenser-Fan-Motor/WR84X10055/1093723

 

How to hot wire these motors:

 

 

If the motor is bad, you can use a regular box fan to cool the sealed system and restore normal operation until the fan comes in from RepairClinic.  

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Thanks!

 

I tested the compressor, it seems to be fine.

 

then I pulled out the relay and followed the instruction on a youtube video:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTKpYdFKPFE

 

the resistance between any two of the three leads are inf. I guess it is the relay's problem?

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Maybe.  I've had inconsistent results ohming a compressor PTC relay, especially when they're already hot.  

 

Was the compressor actually running or not?  (feel vibration? measure current draw?)

 

And a bad relay would not account for the slow condenser fan rotation.  

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I see. The compressor doesn't run. It is just hot. I don't understand the issue with fan either. I will check it.

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I think it is not running because there is no any vibration at all. I took the PTC relay apart, there is no burnout sign. 

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I have had many of these do this. It has always been the mother board for me. Definitely test your voltage going to the fan motor.

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the voltage going to the fan is 13.6 volts. 

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there could be multiple problems.. ie failed fan caused a compressor to overheat. I would unplug the fridge for an hour or longer and let the compressor cool down. I would then plug it back in and see what happens. Also if your model has a 5 or more button interface, I would do the fan motors test and 100% run time test. And If everything runs, I would suspect a bad ptc or compressor (start windings). If the fan is not working, I would battery test the fan for confirmation. It could be the board but if voltage is being sent to the fans and the compressor is hot (check voltage) , I would focus my attention elsewhere first.

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there are three leads to the fan motor. Two of them has a resistance at 800 ohm and the third is open to either of the other two. I feed 7 volts to the two leads with resistance but the fan didn't work at all, no motion. I wonder what is the third lead? Does it matter?

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there could be multiple problems.. ie failed fan caused a compressor to overheat. I would unplug the fridge for an hour or longer and let the compressor cool down. I would then plug it back in and see what happens. Also if your model has a 5 or more button interface, I would do the fan motors test and 100% run time test. And If everything runs, I would suspect a bad ptc or compressor (start windings). If the fan is not working, I would battery test the fan for confirmation. It could be the board but if voltage is being sent to the fans and the compressor is hot (check voltage) , I would focus my attention elsewhere first.

Let the compressor cool down and put it back together then try it without the fan.  Hook up an axillary fan or just let the compressor start and run for a minute.  I have a strong feeling it is just the fan.

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there are three leads to the fan motor. Two of them has a resistance at 800 ohm and the third is open to either of the other two. I feed 7 volts to the two leads with resistance but the fan didn't work at all, no motion. I wonder what is the third lead? Does it matter?

check out the above video provided by the Samurai

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there are three leads to the fan motor. Two of them has a resistance at 800 ohm and the third is open to either of the other two. I

Ohming out these fan motors is pointless because there's a control board inside the motor. That's why you have to test them as so showed in the video. It's also why reversing the polarity of the battery will ruin the motor.

Why were you testing with just 7vdc? A fresh 9v battery will have over 9 volt charge.

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I am testing it with a 7 volt power supply because I  don't have a battery at the point. 

 

I have an embarrassing question to ask: out of stupidity, I dissembled the hookup wire between the condenser fan motor and the supply cable assembly from the mother board. Now, I don't which is the right way to connect them. On the motor side, there are four leads: Red, White, Blue and Yellow. On the cable assembly from the mother board, there are three leads: Red, White and Pink. What should be the correct way to connect them?

 

By the way, I talked to GE support. They offered me ~45 bucks for the mother board if that is the failing part. He also said, there are many unit with this problem. Now I need to make sure if or not is the mother board to blame. 

 

Thanks a lot for everybody's helping tips.

 

Bo

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... Now I need to make sure if or not is the mother board to blame.

a bad (shorted) Fan Motor can take out the MotherBoard

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at one point he said voltage to the fan was 13.6 volts.  If this is the case then wouldn't you just replace the fan motor?  Of course checking it with the batery would be the way to double check that the fan is bad.  So what am I missing here?

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yeah, the voltage between the red and white leads of the cable assembly, which connects to the fan is 13.6 volts. 

 

But I accidentally took apart the three leads (red, white and pink) from the connector. I don't know how they were assembled. Is there a way to find the connection diagram?

 

Thanks!

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which connector?  from the board,  check out the video.  If at the motor, can't you match it with the wire location on the matching connector?   yellow to pink.. red to red,  blue to blue and white to white?  If you can't see the colors on the connector coming out of the fridge which connects to the fan motor,  you can do a continuity test at each position to the j2 board connector

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