Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Samsung Refrigerator RF267ABRS/XAA

Ice maker no ice

  • Please log in to reply
26 replies to this topic

#1 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 18 November 2013 - 12:07 AM

This complaint is refrigerator barely a year old & quit making ice.    I found a manual here for it,   Customer says freezer temperature is 2 degree F.     Suggestions & opinions sought for battle plans on attacking this import.  Line up ducks for initial battle call Tuesday at far end of my service area.    De Nada.    Patricio


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,722 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 18 November 2013 - 06:39 AM

Battleplan is already well documented in your manual and here: http://appliantology...shooting-guide/

First thing is to do is to NOT OPEN THE DOOR until you complete icemaker sensor and ice room sensor tests or unplug fridge until you check for existing error codes.

Second thing to do as with most Samsung models regardless of problem is to check for existing error codes then run diagnostics.

Then regardless of diagnostics check ice maker and ice room sensor from mainboard BEFORE YOU OPEN THE DOOR. (Yeah I shouted this twice since the urge is strong to instinctively open fridge doors immediately upon arrival... resist this urge)

In your manual, check out pages 58 for sensor testing, 64 for ice room sensor testing, 69 for ice room fan testing and -
70 for ice maker troubleshooting. btw if you have a flex tray im, temps should be 1°f or less.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#3 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 18 November 2013 - 10:01 AM

Yes to all Durham said!!! After that make sure to use the ice maker test button to test the ice maker cycling.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#4 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 18 November 2013 - 10:19 AM

Samsung refrigerators have a great self diagnosis system. You can't trust it 100% but it will get you pointed directly to the problem. I suspect you will find a bad ice maker.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#5 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 20 November 2013 - 01:11 AM

Update:  Test connector at CN90 (Icemaker) pin 5-8   vdc  OK.       Notice condenser fan seems to run slow.  Next I put into self diagnosis, I get no fault codes.   I don't understand the notation "This will also cancel the Fault Mode created by self-diagnosis at power up."

 

I coud not find an ice maker sensor  to test  from Main PCB in the fast tract manual.    So I open refrigerator & made test sticking thermometer in bottle of water - 45Degree.

I used IR to find temp in ice compartment, it showed between 14 & 30 degrees at various points.   Bottom freezer showed 6 to 24 degrees at various points.  Stuck stick thermometer in Ice Cream - it showed 0 degree.

 

Next I pulled ice maker out, it had no water or ice.  While It was out & plugged in I held reset button for 15-20 seconds.   Did not feel heater.  about another 30 seconds bail started moving up & down 2-3 times, rake started to move then stopped about 2 o'clock.  Nothing after that.  Reinstalled ice maker. & put ice bucket/Auger back in.

 

Slow condenser puzzled me.   I checked voltage at CN75 4-1 C Fan  I had 3.4 vdc instead of 7-11 vdc.   . Compressor head temp was 125 degree & condenser was warm

 

What did I do right & what did I do wrong.  

Reading the manual confuses me the 1st time, it takes several readings at different times  to get a grasp of what I am to do.  I believe a new IM is in order, but the compressor fan has me wondering

 

The refrigerator temp at 45 I believe is user error.  When I pushed refrigerator button setting it was set at 44.   I turned it down to 36.   Freezer was set at 0.    I turned down to -2.   Will go back after I order & receive a new IM.

 

Customer informed me he had called several other techs from surrounding areas before he was referred to me and all refused to work on Samsung.   I have a few washers & dryers, a dishwasher & a couple of other older Samsung refrigerators under my belt, I see a great opportunity here.  I want to get to know these machines on a personal level, money to be made, reputation to be enhanced with a little no big help from you Samsung experienced.


Edited by Patricio, 20 November 2013 - 01:16 AM.

I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#6 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,722 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 20 November 2013 - 07:31 AM

1) the notation means that any previously stored error codes will be erased when you run diagnostics.

2) Ice make sensor is called eject sensor.. test white to sky blue on c90 connector

3) Did you read (or do you have) the service manual or pages I suggested or do you trust your understanding of Samsung methodology to the point that the fast track suffices? If it's the latter, then I need to start asking you to help me with my Samsung issues.

4) As the Samurai always reminds me when I am working on a hi-tech fridge, "it's still just a fridge." On that point, did you check the water valve?

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#7 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 20 November 2013 - 10:12 AM

1) the notation means that any previously stored error codes will be erased when you run diagnostics.

2) Ice make sensor is called eject sensor.. test white to sky blue on c90 connector

3) Did you read (or do you have) the service manual or pages I suggested or do you trust your understanding of Samsung methodology to the point that the fast track suffices? If it's the latter, then I need to start asking you to help me with my Samsung issues.

4) As the Samurai always reminds me when I am working on a hi-tech fridge, "it's still just a fridge." On that point, did you check the water valve?

I)OK

2)OK

3)I read & printed most of the manual, like I said takes a few readings to fully understand,  Fast track is very confusing also.

4)Still just a fridge, Checked water dispenser,  ya know,  I did not force the ice valve to work, just checked continuity.

 

Lacking experience on refrigerator.  Da


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#8 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 20 November 2013 - 02:40 PM

Did you put the unit into forced mode before testing fans? Not one hundred percent sure but I believe the condenser fan is a Multi speed dc fan. If the unit was sending the low speed voltage, that may be why your reading lower than 7-11v dc. Force mode will run all fans at high speed. 
 
Not sure if you have this info
 
 38 minutes after the water fill is complete, the control board will 
check the temperature of the eject Thermistor, on the Ice Maker 
Head. If the Thermistor reads a temperature lower than 18.5 
degrees for more than 5 seconds, the Ice maker will harvest if the ice 
bucket is not sensed as full. 
 Press and hold the ICE TEST S/W for at least 1.5sec, the harvest 
function will start. The Ice maker heater turns on for 30 seconds to 2 
minutes. After the Ice maker heater turns off, the Ice maker harvest 
motor turns on. The motor will rotate in right direction for about 3 
minutes, after this, water supply valve is turned on, then the valve is 
turned off, the test mode is completed. If the above operation is not 
carried out within 6 minutes, it will go into a fault mode.
 
 
 
Heat Release I/M Testing All Tests must be done before the Ice Bucket is removed and 
with the compressor running. 
 Ice Room Sensor – record voltage and convert to temp. 
 Ice Maker Eject Sensor - record voltage and convert to temp. 
 Ice Room Fan – 7-11 vdc – is it OK? 
 proper voltage means motor speed is correct. 
 Freezer Defrost Sensor - record voltage and convert to temp. 
 If Ice Bucket is full, fan may be off, Ice Room and I/M Sensor 
may be around 23°. 
 When making ice, the Ice Room should be around 6°. The I/M 
Sensor will be above 18°. The Ice Room Fan may be running. 
With the compressor running the Freezer Defrost Sensor should 
be around -10°.
 
 
Heater should turn on first during test as stated above. 

Edited by applianceman97, 20 November 2013 - 02:52 PM.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#9 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 20 November 2013 - 11:39 PM

Called customer asking condition of refrigerator.  He said freezer temperature display is -14o & fresh food is 34o .if that means anything.   He also stated the ice maker was making noises but no ice production.     I am re reading the manual as time permits & will be ordering an ice maker tomorrow.  Any thing else I might gather before my next training visit?  OJT is the only way I am going to learn this import, how did you all break the Samsung refrigerator in and for that matter the LG also.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#10 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 21 November 2013 - 12:36 AM

ASTI had great training. There trainer was great. He gave all the fast track manuals, service bulletins and overall just helped everyone understand their methods.

 

If the heater in the ice maker does not function the the ice maker will try to kick out the ice and if it can't the ice maker actually kicks back making a pulsing growling noise. This could be what they are hearing. Before you go back I would just study that manual with every ounce of free time you have. That's the only thing that will prepair you. 


Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#11 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,722 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 21 November 2013 - 06:44 AM

Hopefully the new icemaker will work.

When customer said he heard noises, did he mean abnormal noises or standard operating noises?

-The heater could be a problem since you did not feel any heat but with no ice or water in the mold, I would check the heater's resistance to be certain.

-When you said you got continuity at the valve, what reading did you get? From the manual:

"Checking method of Valve resistance (Must power off for checking) Resistance can be changed by input voltage. CN70#1 (Red) CN73#5 (White-black)- resistance value ; 388(1.6k)Ohm +- 7%) ** 0 ohms: Short trouble / infinite ohms: Open trouble"

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#12 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 21 November 2013 - 12:07 PM

If ASTI ever comes to Corpus Christi I would be there in a heartbeat.  Most of the training classes scheduled are too far away to attend.  So I get my training here on Appliantology thru you good folks,  Thank you again.

 

I don't know what 'noise' Ben heard, when I took the IM out it had maybe a tablespoon of water in it.   I am re reading the manual to familiarize myself in greater detail.   Like I said it takes me a few readings to comprehend completely.     My brain cells are not as good as when I was in college (they were not that good then, CRS syndrome, still managed 3.75gpa.)    It comes to me with time & study.

 

I do, not remember what the ohm reading was just it was not open or shorted.   Just like the far east not +- 10% or 5%  ... but 7% ??    I checked continuity at both valves not at PCB.   ?/ 388 (1.6k)Ohm +- 7% ??  Is that 388 volts or ohms .. does not make sense to me .. (1.6K)  can you interpret or elaborate what they mean?


Edited by Patricio, 21 November 2013 - 12:17 PM.

I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#13 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 21 November 2013 - 01:04 PM

I Don't have the service manual for this model, just the fast track. But usually the Samsung water valves are 120vac. Can you post where you are reading your info so i can see it in more detail. Then i may be able help. 


Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#14 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,722 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 21 November 2013 - 04:53 PM

i quoted it for him out of this manual http://appliantology...service-manual/


I am not quite sure what the parenthetical 1.7 k ohms mean unless it is the upper limit. 388 is the resistance in ohms.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#15 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 21 November 2013 - 05:39 PM

Thats what I would guess since the valves are 120vac

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#16 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 23 November 2013 - 11:53 PM

This manual is very confusing,   Hard to understand, darn sure wrote by a foreigner.  Can anybody interpret?

 

Received new IM today, will get back to unit probably Monday afternoon.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,163 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 24 November 2013 - 06:59 AM

This manual is very confusing,   Hard to understand, darn sure wrote by a foreigner.  Can anybody interpret?

 

 

 

 

The GE manual for their Samsung-built units is mostly applicable to your model and is excellent.   It may help decode the mysteries for you:  http://appliantology...h-door-samsung/



#18 DurhamAppliance

DurhamAppliance

    Sho' Nuff Chozin

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 4,722 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bells Two Hearted

Posted 24 November 2013 - 07:36 AM

two questions....

1) when you said "rake started to move, then stopped at a two o'clock position"... are you saying the rake made a full revolution or did it stop immediately. If the latter then more than likely your icemaker

2) when you said the valve had continuity, did you mean your readings matched that written on the valve or did your meter give the continuity tone? If the latter, then more than likely you need a new valve.. (as the Samurai reminded me once again, this aint nothin but a fridge, so you can use a cheater cord on this valve as well)

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 24 November 2013 - 07:37 AM.

Durham Appliance Thrift & Repair, LLC

www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#19 Patricio

Patricio

    Opa

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,374 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Home brewed ice tea

Posted 24 November 2013 - 07:35 PM

two questions....

1) when you said "rake started to move, then stopped at a two o'clock position"... are you saying the rake made a full revolution or did it stop immediately. If the latter then more than likely your icemaker

2) when you said the valve had continuity, did you mean your readings matched that written on the valve or did your meter give the continuity tone? If the latter, then more than likely you need a new valve.. (as the Samurai reminded me once again, this aint nothin but a fridge, so you can use a cheater cord on this valve as well)

1) Sat for 30+ seconds then rack moved to 2 o'clock not passing GO then stayed parked.

2) Did not check for matched readings only some kind of continuity, did not have meter on audio was not checking for low resistance.

 

Forced to stop checking because radio Shack mini pin probe broke trying to insert into connector.   I need to find a better set of small probes as this is the 2nd set of RS probes to break trying to insert in connector.   Where may I obtain a couple of sturdy probes for my meter that I can use on this small pins & wires?

 

The GE manual for their Samsung-built units is mostly applicable to your model and is excellent.   It may help decode the mysteries for you:  http://appliantology...h-door-samsung/

Thank You Scott.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#20 applianceman97

applianceman97

    Baby Sensei

  • Grand Master Funk
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Fresh Squeezed IPA

Posted 24 November 2013 - 07:44 PM

Huh. I have had no problem with the radio shack leads. Maybe you just don't know your own strength. Lol

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics