GSS20IEMBWW. I found that the evap fan was not running so I replaced the fan motor and it still did not work. I called one of my buddies that is a GE tech and he said to change the main board. I changed the main board today and the compressor wouldn't even kick on and I waited for a good 35 min because i thought that it may be in defrost mode or something. I put a jumper wire between comp and L1 at the board and the compressor fired right up which means its not the compressor. I then put the old board back in and it did not start up then either(compressor or evap fan). I'm lost on this one looking for some guidence. When I jump the comp to L1 and the compressor kicks on, should the evap fan start up too? Why is the compressor not kicking on under normal operation?
GE side by side fridge GSS20IEMBWW
Posted 18 November 2013 - 08:08 PM
several possibilities... first and foremost are the thermistors... test and replace them. Also. double check your board connections.
was the compressor and condenser fan running the first time before you changed evap fan? If not then high probability a thermistor problem. Unplug the j1 connector and see if the fridge fires up. If it does then definitely a thermistor problem. You may have to unplug the fridge and plug it back in.
If the compressor still will not fire up, unplug the j2 connector from the board. If the compressor fires up, you still have a fan motor problem. A bad fan motor can take out a board. Did you check your condenser fan motor? test both motors from the board and check. voltage at the motor connectors.
Btw can you and have you run diagnostics?
Posted 18 November 2013 - 08:08 PM
What was the part number of the board you installed?
Posted 18 November 2013 - 10:11 PM
You need to check the resistance of the thermistors. Most likely, the one on the evaporator has failed. You should have about 5k ohms at room temp, higher resistance for colder temps. it should react QUICKLY to changes in temperature, so touch an ice cube to it and watch the resistance rise. 16.3k for 32 degrees. Good luck.
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Posted 19 November 2013 - 01:30 AM
the board i installed was wr55x10942. Compressor was running before I changed the evap fan, not sure about the condensor fan, I think so though.
Posted 19 November 2013 - 07:42 AM
Maybe it's your condenser fan motor taking out your boards. Test the condenser fan motor. Also check the two resistors under the j2 connector on your old board for burns and discoloration. Check your new board as well. It would also be helpful to know if your original evap fan motor was good. Check it out with a 9 vlt battery.
If you are able to run diagnostics, do the fan motor test, the 100% run test and toggle the defrost on.. . see what happens then toggle it off (just curious to see if the board is stuck in defrost). Note what happens, if anything, during each of the tests.
I have never experienced it with the countless GE mainboards I've replaced but I guess there is the possibility your new board was doa.
Posted 19 November 2013 - 09:19 AM
Quick n’ Sleazy Fan Test (9 volt battery)
- White wire to the negative battery terminal
- Connect BOTH the Red and Yellow wires to the positive battery terminal.
Do not reverse the leads or you’ll blow out the sensitive electronics built into the motor assembly!
Read more: http://appliantology.../#ixzz2l6L45oce
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Posted 19 November 2013 - 09:50 AM
This is a encoder model G.E.Is it possible that you have one with a serial number that tells you to cut one of the thermistors out on Ji plug.I think this may be old enough that this refrigerator has all old round thermistors in it.
Posted 19 November 2013 - 07:47 PM
It does have old round thermistors in it. Thanks for the info on checking the fan motors. Could someone tell me what wires on what plug i would use to check the condensor fan motor? Also what wires on what plugs to ohm out the thermistors?
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