Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Frigidaire oven zones out

Frigidaire oven Model No. FES355EBC

  • Please log in to reply
34 replies to this topic

#1 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 24 November 2013 - 11:12 PM

This slide in oven has started beeping once, then the oven shuts off, and the display goes blank. Turn on a surface burner and the display flashes 12:00 and you can reset the time and the oven can be reset to the proper temp and it continues to cook. Minutes, or hours later the same thing will happen again. I have replaced the EOC and the same problem continues to occur. Ohmed the oven sensor at 1082 at room temp. No error codes have ever been displayed.  Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks, Bill



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Scottthewolf

Scottthewolf

    Senpai

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,723 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Dunkin Donuts Coffee

Posted 24 November 2013 - 11:42 PM

Check for burnt wires at the terminal block where the power cord attaches  to it.  Seen this problem a few times when the installer doesn't tighten the nuts  tight enough on the terminal block and doesn't bother installing the strain relief.


Scott Wolf

#3 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 25 November 2013 - 11:53 AM

Thanks Scott. Checked connections first. All secure, bright, wires in exc. condition. Just went to load center and was able to take one complete turn on the lug securing one leg of the 240 volt line. Maybe that was the problem. Will give it a day and confirm if cured. Again, thanks for your response. Bill



#4 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:58 PM

Greetings, I have a Frigidaire FES355EBC slide-in range which drops power to the control module intermitantly.Screen just goes blank. Turning on a surface control knob brings the screen up flashing "1200" and the time can be set and oven controls work. It may work for a day, or may go right back off. Ordered a replacement module from Repair Clinic, installed it and have the same problem. Had the power company out today to check their system coming into the house and they found a floating neutral on the power pole which they repaired. Still having the same problem with the range.  Ohmed the thermistor, 1028 at room temp. Checked all connections: secure and bright. Unit had worked perfectly since installed in 2008.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Bill



#5 -Mike-

-Mike-

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 338 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:diet Pepsi

Posted 17 December 2013 - 12:09 AM

That sounds like a power supply problem. You probably have power to only one line and not the other. When you turn a burner on that is sending power  through the burner to the other line and then powering the clock. Check your circuit breaker and make sure one of the two (double breaker) did not trip, check the terminal block where the power cord attaches and see if one terminal is burned, check the wall outlet and see if you have 240 volts there.



#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Fermented Grand Master
  • 28,809 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 17 December 2013 - 05:19 AM

Topic split.  



#7 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 22 December 2013 - 08:47 PM

Thanks Yamabushi. I checked again and find 119 volts on each leg coming into the load center and 119 volts coming out of the 50 amp breaker to the wall outlet where 119 volts is available on each leg to the range.  My terminal block where the pigtail attaches to the range is bright, clean, and firmly connected.

any other thoughts?

Any place else where I should post this question?

I have not yet figured out navigating around here.

Just was able to find you post. Merry Christmas (if appropriate for you) and Happy New Year.



#8 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 22 December 2013 - 09:11 PM

Scott. Still having same problem. I am new to this site as far as posting. Seems i hijacked your post and actually made two posts of the same topic. Sorry. Don't know how to un-jack the heist! Power company came out. found a floating neutral which they repaired on the pole. Getting 119 volts in and out of the load center and to the appliance on both legs. Still have the above stated problem. Wife's going nuts as the feast day approaches! Si-a-nara or however you spell it. thanks for any suggestions.



#9 Chat_in_FL

Chat_in_FL

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,248 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:on the house...

Posted 22 December 2013 - 09:23 PM

Try swapping L1 and L2 at the Power cord connection, this sometimes solves dirty power supply issues... 


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

#10 -Mike-

-Mike-

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 338 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:diet Pepsi

Posted 22 December 2013 - 09:50 PM

You have 119 volts on each line but see if you have 240 volts between both lines. Its best to check at the terminal block on the range but you can do it at the breaker if thats easier to get to.



#11 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 22 December 2013 - 10:33 PM

Chat, Do you mean where the pigtail attaches to the range?

#12 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 22 December 2013 - 10:37 PM

Mike, I've got 238 volts.
Mike, I've got 238 volts.

#13 micabay

micabay

    Senpai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 685 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Drifter Pale Ale

Posted 22 December 2013 - 11:58 PM

Chat, Do you mean where the pigtail attaches to the range?

Yes.  Or if you're adventurous you can do it inside the receptacle.  :blinky:  Only suggest that, so you can verify the receptacle is good too.


Edited by micabay, 22 December 2013 - 11:59 PM.


#14 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 23 December 2013 - 06:20 AM

... intermitantly.Screen just goes blank.
... Turning on a surface control knob brings the screen up flashing "1200" and the time can be set and oven controls work.

classic symptoms of a bad connection of the Neutral
Take a close look at the Neutral wire / connection on the Terminal Strip
After disconnecting power, check and tighten the nuts on the Terminal Strip.


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#15 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 24 December 2013 - 08:02 PM

Thanks.

#16 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 24 December 2013 - 08:02 PM

Thanks. Checking it out.

#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Fermented Grand Master
  • 28,809 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 25 December 2013 - 09:43 PM

Topics merged.



#18 PDuff

PDuff

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,776 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Bud Ice (Yeah, I know)

Posted 26 December 2013 - 01:48 PM

Concur with Reg that the neutral is the culprit with the momentary loss of power under a load.  Power company corrected the neutral issue at the pole and you can check the range terminal block and wall outlet for visible damage.  But also check the neutral bar at your main power disconnect box for loose connections.



#19 -Mike-

-Mike-

    Kohai

  • Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 338 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:diet Pepsi

Posted 26 December 2013 - 07:58 PM

I'm thinking its one of the lines (maybe internal in the range) and not the netural since the clock powers up when a burner is turned on. Unless what are you guys  seeing here that I'm not?



#20 billywilly

billywilly

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 19 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Old Mil

Posted 26 December 2013 - 09:06 PM

All respondents: this day I have found voltage at the panel, the 50 amp breaker serving the range, and at the wall plug to be 120 volts on each leg. The pigtail connections to the range have been removed and re-secured, with particular attention to the neutral. I believe the last post is on to something. I pulled the control module to insure the connections I could see were secure. Unplugged and reconnected what I could. Put everything back together. SO, Mike, how would I trouble shoot on your suggestion?
Folks, I really appreciate your helpful suggestions.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics