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PCB Repair Question for KitchenAid KUDP01FLSS6

5 posts in this topic

Thanks for a great forum.  Have read posts on PCB repair, as well as the long, sortid history of this dishwasher family.  Would be great if Whirlpool would fess up about the hazard of this board and the way the board behaves as a fuse.

In my case, replaced a previously malfunctioning board (different problem).  The new board lasted about 6 months before the heater control circuit fried at the P6 spade connector on board.  The connector completely burned a hole in the board, but does not appear to have damaged adjacent circuitry.  I have a choice of arguing with the supplier - who is claiming "power surge" - or I can repair it and bypass this flawed spade connector design.  And yes, the heater circuit rings out at 13.6 ohm.

My specific questions looking at the board repair:

1)  Am assuming this circuit carries about 10a max current (heater rating 840w/120 + margin) - so 18ga solid core insul copper wire to replace trace on circuit card?

2)  Wire in the harness that I need to splice in a new wire/connection - 16ga stranded?

3)  What type of conformal coat did they use on the back side of the board?  Need to expose the k-2 relay to solder to and then reseal

4)  After cleaning up the resideu from the burn hole, do I need to bother with any epoxying/etc?  Looks like the only conformal coated the bottom of the board to protect the solder joints.  Top-side isn't protected and exposed to moisture.

Appreciate the help!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

may be OK to do such repair for personal use,

but I wouldn't recommend it for a customer's use (liability)

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Any time the board burns there, it can be caused by a bad connection. I will always replace the terminal on the wire for the heater at the board when replacing or repairing the board. You can order a wire harness for a factory job,  or cut the plug apart and crimp a new spade connector on the wire. I usually pull the wire out of the plastic plug and put a new terminal on it. I've never had one fail twice when doing that.

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Thanks for the responses; this is a personal repair, and it has "gotten personal"...for such a name brand, have replaced the sump, controller, membrane buttons, one of the pumps...I will not let it defeat me.

Supplier buckled and am getting a warranty replacement on the card, so don't have to go to the board repair level.  So your saying just chop off the plastic from the part of the connector affected by the short (with a dremel) and directly wire to the board with an insulated female connector?  Anything else to make this tight?  Agree it will probably the last time it will fail!

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If the terminal is discolored from heat, loose or in any other way damaged, yes it will need to be replaced or it will happen again. If there was no visable damage to it I always just make sure its making a tight connection but if your board burned at the connection its likely it will need attention.

 

And yes with some I have cut the plastic plug apart and "removed" the part where the burned wire was. With others I've simply pulled out the terminal and put a new terminal in the plug (if you have the proper one to fit in there) if the plastic is not damaged. 

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