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LG Washer-Dryer Combo won't completely dry clothes

Dry Prob Wont dry properly

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21 replies to this topic

#1 Pitch

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 11:54 AM

Model LG WM3677HW Combo Washer-Dryer

1. Purchased new in 2007

2. Worked perfectly till last year.

3. Replaced drain pump and discharge drain hose

4. Main tub bearings and seal failure October 2013.

5. Replaced bearings, seal, dampers, drain pump and another new discharge hose Assy, cold water 4 solenoid valve Assy and hot water solenoid assembly.

6. Unit works perfect and is once again runs smoothly and quite.

7. THE PROBLEM IS IT WON'T DRY CLOTHES COMPLETELY...small loads-medium loads; it doesn't matter.

8. I do not receive any error messages.

9. Have run the 13 step self diagnostic checks and all are okay.

10. All voltage and ohm checks Okay

11. Cleaned all lint from condensate system.  No restrictions anywhere.

12. Checked the three thermistors>>>OKAY.

13. The cold water solenoid condensate solenoid is functioning properly (cycling on and off-small amount of water into condensate tube and bellows)

14. Dryer heating element functioning with a 255-108 C test reading

14. Dryer blower motor cleaned and is moving air across heating element and through drum, bellows and condensate tube.

15. Checked upper tub vent check valve to make sure it was not closing off vent hose to upper back rear of unit-CHECKED OKAY 

16. I have cleaned my complete drain system and have no restrictions kinked hoses, etc. 

17. I can actually see that the drain pump is pumping a few ozs of water each time it cycles on during the dry cycle

18. I unplugged the cold water condensate solenoid and ran a dry cycle with no cooling water>>>did not make any difference, except the blower motor became excessively hot due to no cooling water in bellows...

19. But the 2 small towels were still wet. (NOT DAMP WHICH WOULD BE NORMAL) 

20. I have checked to make certain no water is entering the tub through any of the other solenoid valves

21. No water is entering the system in the dry mode, other than the small amount through the condensate solenoid.

22. Does anyone know what the blower motor RPM should be? 
I have checked the dyer heating element and it checks okay with an ohm meter and I ran machine with the cover off the duct and it gets SUPER HOT.

23. Perhaps the blower is not moving enough air through the system?

24.  Anyone have any ideas?

25. PLEASE!!!  I don't want to get rid of this machine...it worked great for many years. And I know it can be repaired...

26. Any help would be appreciated...

PITCH

 



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#2 PDuff

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 01:49 PM

Dryer fan is rated at 3200rpm.  Dryer duct, pipe, and bellow hose should be clean and free of debris.  Dryer heating element continuity should read 10-40 ohms.  Thermistor should read 2.5k-180k ohms.  Thermostat and fuse should read closed.  Starting to look like a Main PCB issue even though the heater appears to be getting voltage.



#3 john63

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 04:01 PM

Verify that the *correct* Cold Water Valve Assy has been installed.

 

For the LG Combo WM3677---the correct part number is (5220FR2008E)

 

 

If the *incorrect* Cold Water Valve has been installed---laundry will be *soaking* wet at the end of the cycle.

 

These are similar Cold Water Valves---but are the INCORRECT part numbers for any model COMBO...

 

5220FR2008F

 

5221ER1002B


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#4 Pitch

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 08:02 PM

Thanks very much for the timely replies:

1. Dryer duct, tube, bellows are spotlessly clean with no lint or other restrictions of any kind. 
2. Dryer heating element has 12 Ohms resistance.
3. All three (3) thermistors have a 100K Ohm resistance when cold and all show a steady change when heated.

4. The fourway (4 way) cold water solenoid valve assembly is the correct LG component with the correct orfrice-restrictor in the dry solenoid to meter the correct small amount of cooling condensate-cooling water into the plastic tube and bellows.

5. The dryer thermostat and fuse are both closed.
6. Could the problem be that the tub assembly is tilted at the wrong angle (too much angle away from the main drain hose to drain pump) so all the water induced in the tub during the dry cycle is not able to be completely drained by the pump?

7. This seems to be the most likely scenario, because all the clothes are actually more wet after a complete dry cycle than they were after a normal HIGH SPIN before starting the dry cycle mode. 

8. Although I replaced the three (3) damper shocks with new ones when I installed the new tub bearings they do not seem to stabilizing the drum assembly during the spin cycle.?

9. Since I have never worked on any other combo unit; I do not have enough expertise to actually know how much movement is normal.

10.  Do you know what the NORMAL ANGLE of the DRUM should be toward the rear of the machine?

11. If the angle of the drum was too much toward the rear of the machine; wouldn't this allow COOLING water to POOL at the rear of the drum and never be available for the drain pump to completely remove all the water?????

12. I have an extra set of new damper shocks, but as those of you that have replaced these parts know; they are not easy to access and replace.   

13. I am very reluctant to replace the main PCB since it does not show to be defective in any of the diagnostic checks and all the other system checks also show to be functioning properly.

14.  BOTTOM LINE:
The clothes are wetter after a dry cycle than after the spin cycle.
15. This could not be possib  



#5 john63

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 08:57 PM

<<<Could the problem be that the tub assembly is tilted at the wrong angle (too much angle away from the main drain hose to drain pump) so all the water induced in the tub during the dry cycle is not able to be completely drained by the pump?>>>

**********

No.

The drum/tub angle is normal.

**********

<<<all the clothes are actually more wet after a complete dry cycle than they were after a normal HIGH SPIN before starting the dry cycle mode.>>>

**********

An excellent observation/clue.

Indicates that---during the *dry cycle*---something is malfunctioning.

And that something is likely...

1) Too much water is entering the tub during the dry cycle or...

2) Too little water is draining---during the dry cycle.

Check/verify that the DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001T) has been replaced (on the **left** side of the Pump Housing). http://www.repaircli...EA2001T/2003273

If the Drain Motor (on the left side) has been accidently replaced with a RECIRCULATION MOTOR (4681EA2002H)---the dry cycle WILL NOT function properly. http://www.repaircli...EA2002H/1461702

Incorrectly installing a Recirculation Motor on the left side of the Pump Housing---will cause *slow* draining (has slower pump-rate).

If all checks out---I'd replace the Quad Cold Water Valve again (possible factory "dud").
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:18 PM

Illuminating and comprehensive answer as usual, Brother john. Domo!

#7 john63

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Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:26 PM

:pint1:


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 Pitch

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 09:06 AM

1. The drain pump assembly was correctly installed on the left side of black strainer housing. 
The LG part# was 5220FR2006H.  Apparently they have recently substituted the original motor-pump with and upgraded unit with a different part#.
I have actually pulled the drain hose from the drain and visually watched the discharge rate and it is passing a large volume of water. 

2. I have also allowed the tub to fill with a large volume of water that is clearly visible while performing the self diagnosis mode by pressing the Start/Pause button 5 times which opens the inlet main wash water solenoid.

3. I have then pressed the Start/Pause button 12 times which energizes the drain pump.

4. The drain pump empties the tub very quickly.

5. So, I don't think the problem is with the drain pump/motor assembly?

6. As far as the 4 way cold water solenoid valves assemby:..

7. I actually replaced the original equipment black rubber hose from that dry only cold water solenoid to the dry tube cold water inlet plastic tube with a clear plastic hose so I could physically SEE the AMOUNT of WATER it was passing.  It is a very small amount of water and I would suspect there is no problem with this valve. 

8. I have also connected my volt meter to the leads on this valve and can actually see the valve is cycling on and off as it should and it does stop the flow of water when the valve closes.

9. The drain pump is also cycling on and off as it should and I have physically observed that it is draining water from the tub each time it is energized.

10.  At the end of a dry cycle; the clothes are "STILL" steamy HOT WET! So I can assume that the heating element and blower motor are woking okay

11. As previously stated: The clothes are wetter than after the normal HIGH SPIN cycle before the dry cycle starts!

12. I have also removed the detergent dispenser and checked to see if one of the other solenoids is leaking in the closed mode.  I cannot see any water entering the dispenser housing while drying clothes.

13. I am going to place a small towel inside the dispenser and run a complete dry cycle and see if for some reason the PCB is energizing a solenoid momentarily at the wrong time.  It is my understanding that the only water that should be entering the tub is from the cold water condensation induction/mist solenoid?  So, the towel should not become wet during a dry cycle.

14.  It is my best guess that too much water is somehow entering the tub during the dry cycle, however, I actually took the cold water mister solenoid out of a complete dry cycle and the clothes were still "steamy hot wet!" So, water must be coming from one of the other solenoids at an inappropriate time in the dry cycle.

15.  Any other ideas are welcome...I am totally sick of working on this machine as it is tucked away in a small closet and much trouble to slide in and out to work on...HELP PLEASE>>>



#9 john63

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 11:47 AM

 <<<it is tucked away in a small closet>>>

 

**********

 

If the closet has a door---it must remain open when the combo is being used.

 

Closing the door would limit the amount of air for the dry cycle.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 Pitch

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 07:18 PM

Yes, I always open the folding door to the closet for proper ventilation and the unit has dried the clothes properly for years>>>so????

The center where I ordered the new 4 way solenoid is sending a new one under warranty that I will install Monday...they seem to think the valve was manufactured with the wrong size orifice and is passing too much water into the tub on the dry cycle...which is reasonable and who knows; they may have had this problem with other customers too after installing a new solenoid assembly?????????????

On second thought; I think I'll go install the old valve Assy and see if it works?  Very easy to replace and there was nothing really wrong with it other than 7 years old...

On third thought...I'm going to go hook it up to the water supply and energize it and visually watch to see how much water it passes vs. the new valve...that way I'll know for sure...and save the time of changing it; but if they both pass the same amount of water......the new one they are sending probably won't fix this problem either...MAN>>>>>>

I am sick of messing with this machine...



#11 john63

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 10:02 PM

<<<The center where I ordered the new 4 way solenoid is sending a new one under warranty that I will install Monday...they seem to think the valve was manufactured with the wrong size orifice and is passing too much water into the tub on the dry cycle...which is reasonable and who knows; they may have had this problem with other customers too after installing a new solenoid assembly?????????????>>>

 

**********

 

 Several years back---there *was* a Service Bulletin for the combo laundry Cold Water Valves.

 

The *restrictor/orifice* was a problem (became dislodged) and caused the very symptoms that you're experiencing.

 

Let's hope it's as simple as that:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 Pitch

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 10:07 AM

I'm afraid my luck has run out!
1. I tested the new solenoid assembly by allowing the cold water dry solenoid to discharge through a clear plastic hose into a small plastic container.  This NEW valve only passes a very small amount of water and I could clearly see that the orifice was in place and restricting the flow.

2, I then hooked up the cold water hose to the OLD 4 WAY valve assembly and allowed it to also discharge into the same small plastic container while in the dry mode.  It passed the same small amount of water in the same time frame as the new valve and I could also see that the small orifice was intact and restricting the flow as it was designed to do.

3. Both valves close completely when taken out of the circuit and neither is leaking when in a no power condition.

4. I ran the machine through a complete cycle (Wash & Dry) yesterday and checked to make certain there was no extra water entering the tub through any of the other solenoids during the DRY MODE>No extra water is entering the tub during dry mode except through the condensate cooling water solenoid valve as the machine is engineered to do so; unless perhaps it might be entering the tub through the small siphon breaker hose that is attached to the top of discharge drain hose and is plugged into the top of the tub.  I doubt this is the problem ( but will check as I am running out of options!)

5. This leads me back to the unit not pumping out enough water during the dry cycle.

6. It is a brand new drain pump (not a recirculating pump) and the pump is installed correctly and it is cycling on and off as it should in the dry mode.

7. I am going to reinstall the old drain pump which was still functioning (CLOTHES WERE DRYING) (but it seemed appropriate to install a new pump when I had the machine completely disassembled while replacing the bearings and tub seal. 

8.  I also just hooked up my hot water inlet hose to my drain hose and allowed hot water to flow at 75 PSI through my complete drain system that the machine is plumbed into and there are no restrictions in the drain system. 

9. So, I am off to change the drain pump and look for any lint/trash that may have somehow become entrapped in the impeller and impairing the output capacity of the drain pump...

10. This is all very disappointing as this machine is a very well engineered and designed unit and has given me many years of trouble free excellent service until the main bearings and seal failed after 6 years of service. 
11. As John has said many times; once one understands the general principles involved with a condensate cold water drying system it is a fairly easy machine to service...except when you've done everything you should have to repair it and it still won't dry the damn clothes...SMILE...
12. I'm gonna solve this problem and will make a detailed post when completed....



#13 john63

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 11:28 AM

<<<5. This leads me back to the unit not pumping out enough water during the dry cycle.

6. It is a brand new drain pump (not a recirculating pump) and the pump is installed correctly and it is cycling on and off as it should in the dry mode.

7. I am going to reinstall the old drain pump which was still functioning>>>

 

**********

 

I agree.

 

Some Drain Motors with a build-date (sticker on motor) of 2010---were a problem.

Very short service-life---no published Service Bulletins though---just an observation that I've noticed.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 Pitch

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 12:15 PM

Thank you for your follow ups John!
I have been in the Service Business (not appliances) for 50 years and I have never encountered a problem that cannot be successfully resolved when one uses an intelligent and systematic approach to making a successful repair. If it worked once it can always be made to work once again!

1. The first step in any type repair is of course to fully understand how the item you are working on has been engineered to successfully acheive the intended end result.

2. To tell you the truth; I did not ever want to delve into the inner workings of my LG Combo and fully understand all the technical, mechanical and electronic details.  I just wanted to push the buttons and come back home in a few hours to clean and dry clothes...however,

3. I am going to resolve this issue and I now consider it as a very personal challenge!  I can say without reservation after studying all the technical manuals available for my unit that it is one of the most sophisticated and best manufactured pieces of equipment I have ever seen. 

4. The Koreans out did themselves in most areas when they designed and engineered this machine.  One of the few weak links I have noted is the inner tub seal and inner spider bearings that could be improved to give longer service life due to the extensive high RPM's and long usage times during each wash/dry cycle.  The Electronic Filter also seems to have an overheating problem (outer plastic cover melted)  

but the filter is not damaged; yet!

I will make a post when I successfully resolve this issue!



#15 Pitch

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Posted 09 December 2013 - 12:12 PM

PROBLEM RESOLVED:
1. Here's what I finally found was causing the drying problem with my LG WM3677HW Combo.
2. There is an Anti-Siphon U shaped plastic tube at the top where the two drain hoses are attached and water is discharged out the back of the machine.
3. There is also a smaller anti-siphon hose attached at the very top of this Plastic U and routed to the top of the tub.
4. I replaced this complete hose assembly with what was labeled as the correct LG Part assembly when I replaced the tub bearings and seal.
5. Apparently LG uses the same hose assembly on their washing machines also, except the inner diameter hole size where the small anti-siphon hose attaches to the U is much larger than the one used on the LG Combo Washer-Dryer.

6. I determined this after exhausting all the remedies that should have corrected my issue of wet clothes after a dry cycle.

7. Out of desperation I pulled the hose where it attaches to the tub and started a dry cycle and I could clearly see a large volume of water was re-entering the tub each time the drain pump cycled on every 30 seconds.
8. On closer examination, I compared the old drain hose to the new one and could clearly see the inner diameter of the plastic fitting where the small hose attaches at the top was much smaller in inner diameter than the new one I received from my Parts source.

9.  I then ran several loads of clothes through a complete cycle with the anti-siphon hose disconnected from the tub and my clothes came out completely dry (NOT EVEN DAMP)
10. If you experience a dying problem after replacing your drain hose on a combo unit I would certainly suspect that you may have received the wrong hose assembly with the larger inner hose diameter.
11. I am somewhat concerned about leaving this small anti-siphon hose permanently disconnected from the tub as I feel certain the correct small amount of water that would be pumped back into the tub by the drain pump during the dry cycle if you had the correct drain hose with the smaller orifice along with the cooling water from the mist solenoid was all engineered into the original design of this machine to help control any OVERHEATING of clothes that could occur on extra long dry times without the correct amount of cooling-drying water in the tub.

12. So, has anyone actually run their combo with the small anti-siphon hose disconnected without incurring other problems like ruining clothes because of too high internal tub temperatures.
13. I have a replacement hose on order under warranty, but as those of you that have changed this hose assembly know, it is a somewhat time consuming job and if I can just leave the anti-syphon hose disconnected that would be much easier...and it dries so good now>>>>

BOTTOM LINE:

If I were in the LG Combo Repair business I would certainly check this hose assembly and make certain it has the smaller anti-siphon orifice at the top of U shaped plastic hose connector before installing a new one on a combo unit. This manufacturing-labling error? on LG's part has caused me untold lost hours of unnecessary diagnostic repair time since I had to start from scratch in learning and understanding all the technical, mechanical and electronic issues and various systems first; not to mention all the loss of use of my Washer-Dryer. But on the positive side: I feel confident I know as much as anyone about the total overall operation of this machine and I am still confident it is one of the best engineered and manufactured "all in one" Combo units ever built.  Their attention to small detail is as good as I have ever seen in any type machinery. 



#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 09 December 2013 - 02:08 PM

Thanks for the helpful and detailed update, Pitch!  



#17 Pitch

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Posted 09 December 2013 - 02:37 PM

Thanks to all that contributed to my learning experience and repair of my LG Combo Unit.

I hope my posts have also helped someone diagnosis a drying problem in the future!
I will make one more post after I receive and install the new drain hose assembly if it in fact is the correct hose for a Washer-Combo Unit. 

In the interim, I plan on experimenting by placing a small 1/8 inch metering valve where the anti-siphon hose attaches to try and determine what is the optimum amount of water in the tub during a dry cycle and would be the most efficient for drying clothes in the most efficient and timely manner.



#18 john63

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Posted 09 December 2013 - 09:12 PM

<<<I replaced this complete hose assembly with what was labeled as the correct LG Part>>>

 

**********

 

The correct part number for the Drain Hose Assy is (5215ER2002G)

 

Which Drain Hose did you install?

 

**********

 

<<<I am somewhat concerned about leaving this small anti-siphon hose permanently disconnected from the tub>>>

 

**********

 

The purpose of the hose---is to prevent siphoning of water from the tub---*after* completely draining the water---during a wash cycle.

 

For example---if an owner has a utilitub-type plastic sink---and the drain hose outlet is at or near the bottom of the "sink" tub---and plumbing is partly clogged and drains slower-than-should---then ...

 

After the water has finished pumping/draining from the washer (during a wash cycle)---fresh water begins to fill into the tub.

If the utilitub still has water in it (slow drain)---it'll siphon (suck) the fresh water from the tub while it is filling---and during wash/tumble.

 

The anti-siphon prevents this condition.

 

It is *not* intended/designed to *add* water into the tub.

 

**********

 

<<<So, has anyone actually run their combo with the small anti-siphon hose disconnected without incurring other problems like ruining clothes because of too high internal tub temperatures.>>>

 

**********

 

Clothing will dry regardless if the anti-siphon is connected or not.

 

Unless *something* is incorrect elsewhere---wrong drain hose----incorrect drain installation---it shouldn't matter at all in the dry cycle---if that tube is connected or not.
 


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 Pitch

Pitch

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Posted 10 December 2013 - 08:50 AM

Thanks once again for your follow-up John:

1. Yes, I am totally aware of why the anti-siphon was originally engineered into the washer-dryer drain system.
2. I sold Steam Generating equipment up to 600 Boiler Horsepower for 30 years and I have engineered many systems that needed anti-siphon-check valve components designed into an installation. 

3. I however do not really require this feature because my drain hose flows into an open drain pipe above the machine discharge hose. 

4. I think you misunderstood the problem I described in my above LAST Post.
5. The new drain hose assembly I received from my parts source and installed last month was the wrong hose for the dryer-washer combo because it has too large a hole in the 1/4" plastic tube at the top of the u shaped connecter where the two (2) larger drain hoses are also attached and where the anti-siphon hose is also attached and then routed to the top of outer tub rear half.
6. Think about it for a minute John:
     A. The anti-siphon hose is attached to the very top of the U-shaped connector.
     B. It is therefore a straight flow back into the top of the washer drum.
     C. If the inner diameter of the molded plastic U FITTING is drilled TOO LARGE the drain pump would consequently pass more water (too much water) back into the drum instead of pumping it to the drain.
     D. Too much water in the drum could definitely create a problem with a condensate style dryer machines ability to dry clothes; creating  longer dry times or actually never drying the clothes regardless of how long the dry cycle was. (Basically creating the same scenario as a DEFECTIVE drain pump that was failing to pump the correct amount of water every thirty seconds)
     E. In other words, the drain pump would pump more water back into the drum where the clothes are being dried instead of pumping the correct volume of water to the drain.
BOTTOM LINE:

Too much water in the drum during a dry cycle regardless of the cause will completely change the dry cycle times, capabilities and functionality and could even cause the clothes to never dry and remain wet because the heating element and blower could never overcome the excess amount of moisture that would always be present because the drain pump is pumping too much water back into the tub instead of to the drain .  Conversely, too little water in the tub during a dry cycle could also have an adverse affect and slowly create higher than normal internal operating temperatures than are desirable for certain types of clothes. 

Once again; if you will check the inner diameter of the correct drain hose with the U-Shape tube you will clearly see the inner hole where the anti-siphon hose attaches is very small and was engineered to only allow a SMALL AMOUNT of water to pass back into the tub but still be capable of functioning as an effective anti-siphon. 

If the inner diameter is too large it would allow too much water to return to the tub and the clothes would never dry because too much water is in the tub at any given time and overwhelming the inherent design and capacity of the heating system. 

 

Basically, I received the wrong drain hose with too large an orifice where the anti-siphon hoase attaches and it is allowing too much water to be returned to the tub each time the drain pump cycles on every 30 seconds in the dry mode. (Once again, this creates a condition within the tub that would be no different than any other reason too much water was in the tub during a dry cycle: EXAMPLES: Cooling water mist solenoid passing too much water into the condensate bellows and tub, drain pump impellor failure, drain pump inlet water restriction, drain pump discharge restriction, too large a load of clothes to allow efficient hot air circulation and condensation in the bellows, main drain stopped up or restricting the flow, excessive lint build up in the entire dry system retarding the air flow and ability to condense water and pump it to the drain.

 

The amount of water in the tub vs heating/dryer original engineered capability is critical to the proper operation of this machine in the DRY MODE. Too much water for any reason will always have an adverse affect and passing too much water back into the tub through the anti-siphon hose because the orifice is too large can definitley create this problem...In other words...a never ending cycle of wet clothes...because the heating system was not designed nor has the capability to dry this much excess volume of water.

I am going to leave my anti-siphon hose disconnected from my tub so no water is returned anytime the drain pump is energized every 30 seconds during the dry cycle because my clothes dry and do not dry whe
n it is connected because the drain pump passes too much water back into the tub because the drain hose has too large an orifice in the anti-siphon fitting.

Thanks again for all the input from everyone. I feel very confident I can resolve any problem I ever encounter again with my LG Combo Unit...   


   
     



#20 john63

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Posted 10 December 2013 - 09:24 AM

Good job:)

 

**********

 

<<<I however do not really require this feature because my drain hose flows into an open drain pipe above the machine discharge hose.>>> 

 

**********

 

If the Drain Hose is elevated---this would certainly be a problem.

 

For the washer models---it can be up to 8 feet (elevated).

 

For the Combo models---problably less---I'll find out:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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