<<<I have tried to level it multiple times.>>>
It is only necessary to level the washer (any Samsung with VRT) once with a level tool.
This is done so that the washer (and matching dryer) appear even/level compared to each other during the installation of the laundry set---as well as having the washer in such a position---that it does not rock back-and-forth on the leveling legs.
After leveling---it's time to return the level tool to the toolbox---and *lock* it. We'll never need it again---ever:)
The next step---would be to add a single wet towel into the tub (to mimic an imbalanced load condition) and place the washer in the Drain/Spin mode.
When the Control Panel displays "09" minutes remaining---this is the approximate point at which the "computer" will begin the high-speed spin portion of the spin cycle.
Kneel down at the front of the washer---and place one finger of your left hand at the left side front leveling leg---and the right hand finger at the right leveling leg.
As the tub begins to accelerate---you'll be able to *feel* which of the front leveling legs---is beginning to hop up/down off the floor.
Every Samsung washer comes with a special thin-profile wrench.
Use this wrench to make any (usually incrimental) needed adjustment---to the leveling leg that which is moving up and down---until it ceases to do so.
This adjustment must be done at the point in which the tub is beginning to pick up speed (300 to 500 RPMs). Repeat if necessary until corrected.
Lock the leveling legs---using the same wrench---so that the position of the leveling legs does not change over time from repeated loads of laundry.
If the washer has been moved---to reach for an item that fell behind it / for cleaning behind the washer / any reason at all---this leveling procedure should be done again to ensure the smoothest spin performance possible.
The spin profile of a Samsung washer is similar to LG front load washers...
0 rpm to 400 rpm--------------------Herky-Jerky tub movement / Tapping noises / Spring tension sounds / etc
400 rpm to Top Speed-------------Smooth spin
400 rpm -and-coast-to-stop-------Herky-Jerky tub movement / Tapping noises / Spring tension sounds
When the Vibration Reduction Technology was in the developmental (test lab) stage---one of the parameters that needed to be determined was...
*How Long Does It Take/Require For A Load Of Laundry To Stabilize During Spin Cycle Ramp-Up* ?
This was an important baseline to find/establish---so that the Main Board can ***know*** if / when to ABORT the spin cycle---if there's TRULY something wrong / defective. It's a basic safety requirement/need.
Knowing that---let's assume (for the sake of discussion) that it was determined by the engineers---that 99.5% of large loads of laundry require no longer than 90 seconds to *stabilize* during spin-ramp-up.
That would then be programmed into the Main Board.
Terrific idea right?
Now---what if the laundry load is too excessive/large (or even too small)---we can then also program the Main Board & washer to ABORT the high speed spin cycle for UP TO 7 TIMES (varies depending on manufacturers and model numbers).
After each ABORTED spin---the washer will shift the laundry load/weight---by initiating a series of left and right tumble/rotations of the tub/drum---and make another attempt at ramp-up-to-high-speed-spin.
After 7 failed attempts (ABORTED HIGH SPEED SPIN)---the washer has been programmed to cancel the spin cycle entirely---leaving wet laundry.
Cool technology---with safety in mind :)
Samsung soon found that it had a problem---that it hadn't anticipated in the "lab".
Samsung's VRT system uses 2 important components...
1) Main Board and sensor(s)
2) Dual Balance Rings (one at the front of the tub and another at the rear) which are filled with a special oil and steel ball bearings.
The balance rings function much the same as an aftermarket Harmonic Balancer does in high performance racing engines.
The steel balls *automatically* arrive/reach a position(s) within the rings---AFTER 400 rpm---to balance the laundry load/tub assembly.
Super Cool, huh:)
Remember that *baseline* that I mentioned?---- About knowing when to ABORT a ramp-up-to-high-speed-spin? Ninety-seconds triggers an abort---right?
What happens to oil when it becomes cold?
If the washer is in an environment (basement/garage/back porch)---where the temperature of the laundryroom/area drops *below* room temperature (below 72F)---the thickening of the balance ring oil---increases the length of time needed for the ball bearings to "automatically" reach the correct position(s) within the balance rings---to stabilize the tub assembly---more than 90 seconds.
If the temperature in your laundry room/area becomes cold:
This can cause unique sets of symptoms...
1) Customer says: "I've had this washer for a number of years now---and just recently---it's been making a prolonged racket during spin---than it ever did before---eventually it'll complete the spin cycle and the clothing is indeed spun dry---properly. It just makes more noises than before."
2) "My Samsung washer makes a racket every time it enters the spin cycle---before shutting down---and the clothing remains wet."
3) "My washer spins normal at times---but other times---it's a fickle/possessed demon messing with me. It does not always spin my clothes dry."
My question for you is...
Is the laundry room cold? :)
Edited by john63, 07 December 2013 - 12:49 AM.