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LG LDF6810ST Error Code "LE"

LDF6810ST Error Code LE

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3 replies to this topic

#1 Jetfire

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 10:58 PM

I looked on LG's Q&A website and in the manual, but didn't see a clear fix. Essentially, the wash cycle starts up and never completes the run, it beeps and shows "LE".

 

Here's what I found on LG's Q&A section:  "The LE Error Code is typically a MOTOR error. This may possibly be reset by resetting your circuit breaker and then testing it again. If this does not resolve the matter, then the unit will require service. To make service arrangements, you may either contact our Customer Interactive Center at 800-243-0000, or you can check our Repair Provider Lookup on our website, athttp://www.lg.com/us/support/repair...."

 

Which motor are they talking about? I did kill the power at the breaker as per instructions, but that didn't change anything. I haven't fixed appliances before, but I'm a DIY guy in general.

 

Help!!
 



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#2 tpoindexter

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Posted 05 December 2013 - 11:32 PM

Before replacing the assembly you should check for wiring broken inside the door.

http://appliantology...ly-replacement/

 

http://www.repaircli...1248604/1472730

 

Pump-and-Motor-Assembly-AJH31248604-0075


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#3 john63

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 01:06 AM

Yes---as tpoindexter posted---replacing the SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604) and protecting/repairing (as needed) the Wire Loom inside the door assembly---will resolve your immediate problem ("LE" error).

 

The "LE" error is *extremely* common for all LG dishwashers built from 2004 through mid-2008.

 

The cause of the Wash Motor failure is due a process during manufacturing---that degraded/damaged the Wash Motor.

 

Replacing the entire Sump Assy makes perfect sense in this case (as opposed to just the Wash Motor) since the new design Sump Assy has a much better design internal gasket.

The original Sump Assy gaskets were extremely challenging to re-install (disassembly is required to replace the Wash Motor).

Replacing the Sump Assy---also has the benefit of having a new...

 

1) Wash Motor

2) Heating Element and internal Thermistor

3) Drain Motor

4) Soil Level Sensor

5) Vario Motor (switches water from lower washer arm-to-middle and upper wash arms---every 90 seconds)

 

After removing the door panel----inspect the Wire Loom from the bottom of the door-up-to-the-Detergent-Dispenser-Assy.

 

Repair wiring as needed.

 

Wrap the entire Wire Harness with electrical tape---from the bottom of the door up to the Detergent Dispenser Assy

 

Insert a cardboard cut-out---behind the Wire Harness---to further isolate the wiring from the Tar-Like Thermal/Sound Insulation of the door liner.

 

**********

 

<<<I haven't fixed appliances before, but I'm a DIY guy in general.>>>

 

**********

 

In that case---I'll provide some recommendations to further improve the dishwasher performance & reliability (especially if you are planning to replace the Sump Assembly).

 

Replace the following items:

 

1) Guide Assembly (4975DD1001A)

 

The Guide Assembly has been updated (improvement)---to eliminate the oft-elusive symptom of once-in-a-blue-moon water leaking from the lower corner of the door.

 

Replacement Guide Assys include a new FLOAT ASSY. Not only has this been re-designed (elimination of Styrofoam floats)---but since Tri-Sodium-Phosphate (TSP) is no longer used in dishwasher detergent (beginning July 2010---many FLOAT ASSYs are becoming clogged with fatty/greasy residue. This in turn---causes incorrect water fill/filling then draining/poor wash performance/water-on-floor-complaints.

This accumulation of sticky residue is becoming so commonplace---that replacing the Guide Assy is virtually mandatory (when I service an LG dishwasher).

 

Prior to July 2010---TSP in dishwashing detergent would chemically-react with the fatty/oily deposits in the dishwasher---and CONVERT it to a soap/detergent.

This chemical change (fat-to-detergent) is called "Saponification".

Today---dishwasher detergent cleans---not by saponification---but by "Enzyme" method (breaks down fatty/oily deposits into smaller pieces).

Hence---the oily/fatty residue remains with the wash water---and ideally or in theory---should be eventually rinsed/drained from the dishwasher---provided that the cycle duration/run time is longer than a "normal" cycle AND the wash/rinse water temperature is hot enough to effective remove the residue---sufficiently.

 

My experience has been that---over time---deposits will gum-up the Guide/Float Assy (and the hose leading to it from the Sump Assy) to the point of rendering the dishwasher essentially useless.

 

It's also why I believe that LG introduced an all-new re-designed dishwasher---shortly after the TSP-ban (entirely different water level sensing method---a water frequency sensor rather than using floats).

 

As an option---the Drain Hose (AEM6943803) can be replaced as well. This re-designed hose is intended to be used with the (also re-designed) Guide Assy. The correction was to prevent loss-of-wash-water during the Wash Cycle---especially in situations where the drain hose has been incorrectly installed into the floor---to a drain connection in the basement/crawl space.

This would eliminate "air sucking sounds" and heating element damage due to frequent insufficient amount of water in the tub during the cycle.

 

Lastly---installing a new (yes-re-designed) Filter Assy (ADQ32598202) can reduce the possibility of hard debris entering the Sump Assy during the cycle. The filter area has smaller openings to resist glass shards and other debris---such as a toothpick.

 

Before I forget---if you've replace the Sump Assy---and all works beautifully---but now you're noticing a whistle/growling sound during the wash cycle---post back:)

 

The CHOPPER/MASCERATOR was inexplicably changed from a good design with not-so-pointed ends on it----to a design which best resembles the tip of an indian arrowhead.

This pointed tip---causes whistling and/or grinding during wash.

The original Chopper was brought back---to stop the noise complaint (sigh).

 

Good Luck!


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#4 Jetfire

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Posted 06 December 2013 - 01:14 AM

Thanks! It was a wire broken in the door. I've bookmarked all the info for future reference. You guys rock. 

 

Mission accomplished and I'm already back up and running!!








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The Silver Bullet Fix for LE Error Codes in LG Dishwashers

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 06 December 2013 - 02:12 PM

Of all the error codes seen in LG dishwashers, the LE error is probably the common one asked about in The Samurai Appliance Repair Academy Kitchen Forum . So much so that it seemed like this one needed a Silver Bullet answer. And who better to fire that silver bullet than the Dean of LG Appliantology himself, john63 . Y'all go grab you a cold one and l...

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