Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Mr. Lee Fix

F3 = FMe

11 posts in this topic

GE wall oven has constant F3 code.

Model # JKP17WOP3WG

Serial # RH6541800

Unit is an oven, convection oven, broiler.

Oven was working and then shut off while baking.  Restarted, but over 2 week span became unreliable.  Went F3 one day, beeped every 10 seconds or so and wouldn't stop until I killed power.  I then pulled boards, checked for the obvious and put them back.  Only F3 now without the beep.  Nothing works!  Tell me everything, oh Wise One and I shall make you proud, or a Bundt cake, whichever comes first.

 

Arigato,

 

Mr. Lee Fix

 

Someone once said that one million monkeys, typing on one million typewriters would eventually be able to produce a work of Shakespeare.  Now, thanks to the internet, we know that's not true!

Edited by Mr. Lee Fix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Most likely a bad oven sensor.

Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I shall test the resistance of the sensor and report as soon as I figure out the best way to do so.  Any ideas?  I'll be looking for location, etc.

 

Mr. Lee Fix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I shall test the resistance of the sensor and report as soon as I figure out the best way to do so. Any ideas? I'll be looking for location, etc.

Mr. Lee Fix

Option A. Test at the control board.

Option B. Remove sensor prob and test at quick disconnect.

Option A is more reliable but requires you to access controled area, which increases the chance you'll damage the controler/wiring

Option B needed to be done if you are changing the part.

Good Luck!

MicaBay

Edited by micabay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

micabay,

 

Thank you for the advice and I might as well pull the part.  I've got good, steady hands, but it may be bad after all.

Will report when done.

And remember kids, disconnect the power first.

 

Mr. Lee Fix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...and thank you as well, Oh Inebriated One (Juan for our Spanish members).  This is what I found, and while the movie wasn't much on plot, it was skillfully directed.

 

Mr. Lee Fix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok.  So the probe tests bad, but it didn't have a quick disconnect so I snipped the two wires that attached to it at the high temp wire nuts and  did the test.  The oven was off, but I didn't remove the probe.  I repeated the test several times because it tested so badly...kind of like an 8th grade student.  I ordered the part from Repair Clinic (I don't like the crowd at Appliance Zone... talk to Jor-El as I think he was involved with it).  Now, that it's here, how do I disassemble whatever is necessary to install it?  I have my thoughts, but I feel better checking.  Are there any manuals, diagrams, nearby voluntary repair persons?  Ok, the manual will suffice.

 

Thak you,

Mr. Lee Fix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 it didn't have a quick disconnect so I snipped the two wires that attached to it at the high temp wire nuts 

 

There were ceramic wire nuts already in the probe wire harness?  Sounds like this probe may have been replaced before.  

 

You would just splice the new probe into those two wires (presumably) sticking into the oven cell.  

 

If different, please post a photo or two.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The two thin wires leading to the probe were attached to the main unit wires with crimp type, transparent silicone (?) wire nuts with metal band cores (the nuts looked like nipples). I snipped the probe wires close to the nuts and tested the leads from the probe and only got a reading of 1using a digital multi-meter.  I understand the splicing part, but am wondering the best procedure for removing the probe without disassembling half of the unit.  It is very difficult to see a clear path in which to progress.  Any ideas or pictures? Hint:  Manual?   Hmmm, it appears to be put in through the outer side rear of the cabinet, so moving some insulation should reveal the attachment points...I hope. 

 

Muchos arigatos Fermented Juan,

 

Mr. Lee Fix

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, I asked you first: need to see photos of what you're looking at. Then we'll talk about manuals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites