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What the crap is wrong with my Whirlpool Electric Dryer?


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 02:08 AM

EED4400WQ0

 

Beautiful dryer. Tons of power. All components tested and register properly on the multimeter. However, the dryer will not blow hot on any cycle.

 

The reason why I know this is that I delivered this unit to some clients tonight, hooked it up, and then could not collect my 2 bills that were waiting for me.

 

If I had a 240v outlet at my place I could check to see if the heating element is getting 120v to it.

 

All I could think to check while it was plugged in at my clients' place was their outlet. Yes, they had 120v on each side. This was the last stop today. I was so exhausted I put my dryer back on the truck and left.

 

Is there some way I can find the problem now without power? Everything has continuity that should. Everything ohms out properly that should.

 

I've built lots of these dryers. What could possibly be interrupting the heat circuit? Mice chewing through a wire somewhere? I don't think so. I rebuilt this thing from the floor up.


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#2 applianceman97

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 02:14 AM

You will need to power to test the things it could be. Could be motor (cintrifical switch). Could be timer.
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#3 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 02:20 AM

So the motor could operate well, but be interrupting the heat circuit by way of the centrifugal switch malfunctioning? Bad contact inside timer? All cycles are blowing cold.

 

There is absolutely no way to test either of these 2 components without power?

 

Thank you sir for your fast response.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 14 December 2013 - 02:24 AM.

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#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 04:41 AM

... If I had a 240v outlet at my place I could check to see if the heating element is getting 120v to it.

... All I could think to check while it was plugged in at my clients' place was their outlet. Yes, they had 120v on each side.

1) ... Heater normally gets 240v

2) ... 120v on each side ... and 240v across L1 to L2 ?

Has their previous electric Dryer worked OK for them at that location / Outlet ?

If the Dryer Outlet isn't wired correctly, you would still see 120v on each side, but not 240v across, and no heat

 

If you don't have 240v at your shop for testing,

You could connect the (usually Red Wire) L2 to Neutral,

then the Heater would get 120v, and should work at 1/4 of the wattage.

Although, on your model, the Timer Motor is 240v and may not advance.


Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 14 December 2013 - 04:42 AM.

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#5 fairbank56

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 09:06 AM

So the motor could operate well, but be interrupting the heat circuit by way of the centrifugal switch malfunctioning? Bad contact inside timer? All cycles are blowing cold.

 

There is absolutely no way to test either of these 2 components without power?

 

Thank you sir for your fast response.

 

  Yes on the first question. You can check continuity on the timer contacts between black and red and you can check continuity on the motor switch between the two red wires by operating the centrifugal mechanism manually or by applying 120vac across L-1 and neutral. Turn dryer on and you should also get 120vac at L-2 if motor switch is operating. These are just static tests by the way. Continuity tests can tell you if contacts are bad but not necessarily if they are good as you are only using the low voltage/current of your multimeter but in actual operation there will be over 20 amps through them and the contact can break down if they are faulty.

 

Eric



#6 mark mac

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:18 AM

check 240 across terminals first



#7 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 03:06 PM

If you don't have 240v at your shop for testing,

You could connect the (usually Red Wire) L2 to Neutral,

then the Heater would get 120v, and should work at 1/4 of the wattage.

Although, on your model, the Timer Motor is 240v and may not advance.

 

Thanks Reg. Here's what I did:

 

Connected Dryer Red Wire to Dryer Neutral White.

Connected Test Cord Black Wire to Dryer Black Wire

Connected Test Cord White Wire to Dryer White (with Dryer Red now attached)

Test Cord does not have ground wire.

 

I plugged the test cord into 120v outlet and started up the dryer. No heat.

Multimeter showed heater getting 120v.

Multimeter showed thermal fuse getting 120v.

Multimeter showed hi-limit thermostat getting 120v.

I had the 1st probe of the multimeter at the heater, fuse, then thermostat; I had the 2nd probe in the ground (literally).

 

Now what?


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 16 December 2013 - 03:57 PM.

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#8 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 03:18 PM

You can check continuity on the timer contacts between black and red

 

Thank you. On the timer there are 2 black wires and 1 red. Between one of the black wires (terminal T) and the red one I got continuity. Rotated the timer and kept continuity until the off position.

 

 

...you can check continuity on the motor switch between the two red wires by operating the centrifugal mechanism manually or by applying 120vac across L-1 and neutral. Turn dryer on and you should also get 120vac at L-2 if motor switch is operating.

 

When running dryer on 120v test cord I am getting 120v at L1, 0v at Neutral/L2. This is while the dryer is calling for heat.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 16 December 2013 - 04:09 PM.

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#9 fairbank56

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 03:31 PM

  Where are you placing the other probe of your multimeter when taking these voltage measurements? Do you have 120vac at timer black wire (terminal C)  and red wire (terminal A)?


Edited by fairbank56, 16 December 2013 - 03:37 PM.


#10 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 04:03 PM

  Where are you placing the other probe of your multimeter when taking these voltage measurements? Do you have 120vac at timer black wire (terminal C)  and red wire (terminal A)?

 

Thank you. I revised the top 2 previous posts. 1st probe is at the component I'm testing, 2nd probe is literally in the ground. Dryer itself is not grounded during the test. There is 120v at terminal A and also 120v at terminal C.

 

I was able to get continuity between terminals A and C if I put sideways pressure on the timer knob. Otherwise, no continuity between those 2.


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#11 fairbank56

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 04:26 PM

  What about terminal F of the timer (with dryer running). If you read 120vac there as well, the motor switch is not working. You should see 120vac at terminal X and zero volts at terminal F with dryer running.

 

Eric



#12 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 04:53 PM

  What about terminal F of the timer (with dryer running). If you read 120vac there as well, the motor switch is not working. You should see 120vac at terminal X and zero volts at terminal F with dryer running.

 

Eric

 

Yes sir. Terminal X is at 120v AND Terminal F is at 120v with dryer running on 120v test cord hooked up as described above.

 

So, motor replacement then?

 

What about timer terminals A and C not giving me continuity until I put some sideways pressure on the shaft? Is this going to affect the heat circuit?


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 16 December 2013 - 04:55 PM.

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#13 fairbank56

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 05:06 PM

  Yes, the timer contacts between A and C are for the heater circuit. I would check continuity and visually inspect the two red wires to the motor switch. This is the heat circuit. One goes to the heater element and one goes to the L-2 connection. You can also manually engage the centrifugal mechanism on the motor to check continuity of the motor switch itself. Do you not have the wiring diagram?

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 16 December 2013 - 05:07 PM.


#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 05:45 PM

... Terminal X is at 120v AND Terminal F is at 120v with dryer running on 120v test cord hooked up as described above.

may just be a lot of lint in the Motor Centrifugal Switch


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#15 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 06:49 PM

may just be a lot of lint in the Motor Centrifugal Switch

 

Thanks Reg. Just verified switch is indeed working. With the meter I found the red wire supplying 120v. The opposite red wire had nothing until I started the motor; then it had 120v too. So, 120 going in and coming out. Also changed meter setting to show continuity and it had a nice clear pitch with no resistance when manually operating the switch.

 

 

  Yes, the timer contacts between A and C are for the heater circuit. I would check continuity and visually inspect the two red wires to the motor switch. This is the heat circuit. One goes to the heater element and one goes to the L-2 connection. You can also manually engage the centrifugal mechanism on the motor to check continuity of the motor switch itself. Do you not have the wiring diagram?

 

Eric

 

Thank you. Looks like centrifugal switch is good. Only thing left is timer?

 

I do have the wiring diagram, I just really suck at interpreting them.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 16 December 2013 - 07:05 PM.

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#16 fairbank56

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 07:11 PM

  If you measured 120vac on both red wires with motor running, then the wire between the motor and L-2 (which you now have connected to neutral) is open.

 

Eric



#17 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 07:15 PM

Ok, let me trace L2 back....


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#18 fairbank56

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 07:17 PM

  With motor running the way you have it hooked up, you should have zero volts on both red wires at motor.

 

Eric



#19 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 07:48 PM

 

With motor running the way you have it hooked up, you should have zero volts on both red wires at motor.

 

Thank you. Yes. When I have one probe at the 1st red wire and the other probe at the 2nd red wire the voltage reading is 0v.

 

I apologize for this, but I did not have L2 (dryer red wire) connected to neutral like I originally said. I connected the red wire of my dryer power cord there (honest mistake). So when you said it was open I realized what I did.

 

So, I added a jumper real quick, but still had no heat. I then applied sideways pressure to the timer knob and then the heat came on. I released the knob and the heat went off. With my meter I measured nothing at the heater, then 120v when applying sideways pressure to the timer knob/shaft.

 

I think I've got it now. Wanna send a link?


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#20 fairbank56

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 08:25 PM

http://www.repaircli...0185970/1481699






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