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Control panel on Thermador C302U double-oven sparked

Oven fault electrical

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31 replies to this topic

#21 Shal

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:17 PM

Awesomeness. The oven is still out on the platform, but I completed the installation of the new relay board, including replacing the burned up connectors, put the front panel back on -- and it works. No acrid smoke, no spark. Just a very large room heater (the doors are still off).

 

Next a quest to replace the lower oven air-flow switch so that at long last we can also use the lower oven (we've had code F64 for some years now). Ohm meter says that switch is only sporadically making contact when the arm is pulled back. Switch for the upper oven seems ok, (as it must be since I don't get any code F34s...).



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#22 Shal

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 03:16 AM

Wow RepairClinic, $44 for a microswitch?  Normally I don't begrudge services like theirs the extra coin for having the right part. But in this case I think I'll go with this $5 one instead:

http://www.digikey.c...CH341-ND/280885

 

Of course, that does mean I'll have to kludge my own paddle onto the lever arm, but I imagine I can just cut the one from the old switch.

 

I've uploaded some new photos, including the door tear-down (I scrubbed clean both sides of all three sheets of glass in the upper door, since I had it apart to replace the hinges anyway), the replacement of the circuit board, the new connectors, and the identification of the microswitch. Also the free-standing oven as an oversized room heater. You'll find them at the end of this set:

 

Or start here and click the right right arrow on each picture:

http://www.flickr.co...57638683208186/


Oh cool, I didn't know the link to the photoset would automagically turn into an inline slide-show.

 

The things these web designers think of...  ;-)



#23 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 08:04 AM

Nice Pix!   Great job on the repair!



#24 Shal

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 03:37 AM

Well, rats. Even with the new switches installed, the air flow on the right (lower oven) side is too feeble to actuate the switch. So the lower oven still codes out (F64). I checked that the switch moves freely and isn't rubbing or hung up on anything.

 

There is a very noticeable difference between the robust blast of air coming from the left (upper oven) side and the gentle breeze on the right. Looking through the air entrance between the ovens I can see that the lower blower is turning, but I can't really judge how fast. With the rear cover off I can spin the blower and it appears to spin freely so I don't see any reason it shouldn't produce normal air flow. With the back cover in place and the oven operating (during the timeout period) I checked around the panels and didn't notice any significant leakage of air escaping.

 

The one thing left is that my oven does not have the air diverter shown in Figure 24 of the service manual. But the fact that such a thing was retrofit to the ovens suggests that the lower oven's cooling flow is known to be less robust, and that my blower isn't faulty (per se). I didn't have any luck finding that bit of metal, part #16-10-101, at RepairCenter so Sears may be my only hope short of fabricating one. I think I can adequately guess at suitable dimensions, but if anyone can come up with the dimensions of the official part I'd be grateful.



#25 certified tech group 51

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 10:40 AM

AppliancePartsPros indicate they have them, but out of stock......................Parts store.com...Again out of stock.....................About 50 Clam$.......... :thumbsup: ........



#26 Shal

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 03:13 PM

Thanks certified tech group 51. That's a lot of clams for a bent strip of sheet metal with a hole in it. If I had any metalworking tools it would offend me. Maybe it does anyway.



#27 Bestdentist99

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 08:19 AM

Hi Shal,
I have the exact same problem with my oven. I was able to purchase and replace the control board, but cannot find the burned connector as you show in the picture. It is the one with 6 wires (4 yellow and 2 blue) that plugs into the back of the board near the transformer. Where did you order it and what part number is it?
Your help will be greatly appreciated.

#28 Shal

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 05:55 PM

Hi Bestdentist99,

 

I obtained the connectors from Digi-Key - they are a very useful distributor of electronic components with a good part search engine, no minimum charges, and great shipping options. For a small order like this the USPS first class option is cheap and fast (usually two days for me).

 

The plastic shell is Digi-key #WM2117-ND, the crimp terminals are #WM9846-ND. I don't know your experience level so pardon me if the rest of this paragraph should go without saying. You'll need a crimping tool to form a reliable electrical connection to the wire, fortunately I was able to borrow one from work. I highly recommend buying extra terminals, I ruined one learning how to use the crimp tool. ;-)  At a pinch one might be able to fold the terminal onto the wire with needle-nose and then solder, but you'd have to be very careful to minimize the bulk of the result so that the terminal will still slide into the shell and lock in place.

11924589793_e612e800e8.jpg

Note that the rear-most prongs of the terminal crimp around the insulation, where the forward two crimp to the copper strands. The stripped length must be very short and precise to avoid having strands get into the contact area.

 

Working one wire at a time I clipped it from the burned up shell, stripped it, crimped on the new terminal, and then slide it into the new shell. That way I was sure to put each wire in the correct position of the new shell.

 

Best of luck!


Edited by Shal, 26 January 2014 - 06:00 PM.


#29 Shal

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 09:47 PM

I ended up fabricating air diverter from some scrap metal I had laying about the garage (ex curtain rod), folded it into the V shape and installed it in the right-hand (lower oven) air path, as indicated in the service manual. It isn't very satisfying, but maybe it is "good enough". The switch doesn't actuate immediately when the fan comes on, it takes several suspense-filled seconds before the blower builds up enough flow to push it forward.

 

Short of replacing the lower oven blower, and hoping that the new one is substantially more powerful, I think I'm done for now. I'll just have to wait and see if the lower oven is reliable or whether it sometimes codes out.



#30 Bestdentist99

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Posted 27 January 2014 - 12:04 AM

Shal,

Thank you, so very much for your reply Would you be able to attach a picture of the crimping tool?

Alex.

#31 certified tech group 51

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 10:03 AM

Click on to the link for the terminal..P/n    WM9846-ND.........Scroll down to 'Associated Product'.......Listed is the crimping tool   P/N...WM9010-ND........Click onto the P/N and a picture appears.... :thumbsup: ....



#32 Shal

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 06:39 PM

My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. The crimp tool I used is the AMP Service Tool II - considerably more "old-school" and generic than the marvel available at Digi-Key. We probably bought it close to three decades ago.






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