Brother Tpoin is correct, check for dirty Condenser coils and a runninng condenser fan.. Make sure your compressor is running as well (controlled by high voltage board). If all of those appear fine, check evaporator frost pattern. If iced up near the bottom of the evap then you may have a drainage problem that is addressed in a bulletin that covers your model... ie change your drainage tube to a p-trap tube. So you may want to check to see if your drainage is working properly. Frost can also occur if your drainage tube does not have a check valve or duckbill grommet on it (the bulletin advises removing any existing duckbill gromet and replace with a P-trap but some models are missing the duck bill completely causing interior condensation)
If no drainage/condensation issue and all else appears fine, then you probably have a problem with either the freezer thermistor or your control interface. It is not unusual for this interface(called a Utah control board, a close relative to the problematic Jazz control boards) to fail and can cause defrost failure or simultaneous defrosting while cooling.
btw, your freezer setting indicator will default to the current setting after you input your set point, so what you are seeing is normal. It also strongly suggests that your freezer thermistor is fine since it is sending the proper temp info (I've rarely seen these fail anyway).
And yes, it is possible that your fresh food section can reach its normal operating temps even though you have a defrost issue. Most people do not notice this since they don't perceive or feel a problem when their freezer is 25 degrees. Some models will just continue to feed the ff section as much cold air as possible, keeping the temps low. This results in less food loss.
Send us a couple of pictures of your evap taken in 45 min intervals or normal operation ie after each picture put the evap cover back on and wait 45 minutes before removing cover and taking another picture.
Edited by DurhamAppliance, 15 December 2013 - 11:51 AM.