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Fisher & Paykel GWL10-US


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13 replies to this topic

#1 jerH

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:20 AM

We've had this washer for ~11 years and it's been fantastic.  The recirculator valve had to be replaced once, but that's it until recently.  I washed some removable stair treads that hadn't been washed in a while.  When I went to check on the load, the washer was off, but still full of water.  I turned it back on and advanced the cycle to rinse.  I heard it run for about 30 seconds, but then it just shut itself off and I saw no appreciable change in the water level.  I then began to smell a "hot" smell. 

 

I unplugged it and let it sit for a while, then plugged it back in and advanced it to rinse.  This time I pulled the drain hose out so I could see how much water was coming out.  There was some, but nowhere near what you'd expect.  Again, after about 30 seconds it shut itself off and there was the hot smell.

 

I bucketed out all the water, tipped the machine back, and removed the drain pump.  There was some matted fabric from the treads caught in the impeller.  I removed that.  I also checked the hose on the other side of the pump and found some more matted material in the hose which I removed.

 

I put everything back, tipped the washer back down, and tried to to run it empty just to see what happened.  It filled, but when it began to agitate it stopped and began beeping.  I downloaded the troubleshooting manual and went through the diagnostic mode to find the code was for the Out of Balance sensor.  I'm speculating that having the machine tipped back for a while was the culpruit here.  I just sort of moved the tub around and then exited diagnostic mode and tried to run the washer again.  Once again, 30 seconds, shut down, hot smell. 

 

I let it sit for a while, plugged it back in and went back into diagnostic mode.  The fault code is still the one for the Out of Balance sensor.  While in diagnostic mode, I also did the drain pump test.  Again I had the drain pump out so I could see the water flow and it was significanlty improved from my original observation...more like what you'd expect.  And it did drain the tub, though I had set the water level to low so we're not talking a whole lot of water.

 

Sorry for the long buildup -- here's my conundrum.  My suspicion is that I more or less burned out the drain pump when the stuff was caught on the impeller...but I don't know enough to know if it could be something else.  I can order a new pump from my local servicer for $77.98 + tax.  Or I can have them come out and diagnose it...the service call is $74.95 + parts and labor.  Based on the behavior, what do guru's think? 



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#2 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 03:42 PM

With a volt meter confirm 120 volts at drain pump. If so present observe if pump is impeller is spinning. Sometimes when the drain pump fails it cause a control failure. replacement control will have a fuse link to be installed on the pump feed from control. keep in mind also the wax motor diverter. This allow recirculation as well as draining of water.



#3 J5

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 09:51 PM

the drain pump runs for a small time and then overheats and stops  ?

 

if this is the case then replace the pump



#4 jerH

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:27 PM

The drain pump runs for a short amount of time, then the washer just completely shuts itself down....the console goes dark, all the lights go out, etc.  You can't turn it back on for a few minutes.  There is a hot smell when this happens.  Unfortunately, this means that the tub is full of water.  By the time I can get it bucketed out enough to tip it back and access the pump, it's cooled down.  My instinct is to just replace the pump, but I don't know enough to know if there couldn't be more too it...like something wonky with the control board for example.  When you go into diagnostic mode after it does this, the error code that it returns is for the Out of Balance sensor, not something to do with the pump.



#5 J5

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 12:19 AM

replace the pump , it is overheating and shuts down

 

you prob do have an oob prob as well though , 43



#6 DADoESTX

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 12:58 PM

With a volt meter confirm 120 volts at drain pump. If so present observe if pump is impeller is spinning. Sometimes when the drain pump fails it cause a control failure. replacement control will have a fuse link to be installed on the pump feed from control. keep in mind also the wax motor diverter. This allow recirculation as well as draining of water.

 

GWL10 has a 230v pump, not 120v.  120v feeding to it, it couldn't run at all.

 

GWL10 runs main power through the pump ... so the entire machine goes dead when the pump shuts down on thermal overheat ... then revives when the pump's thermal overheat cools and resets.


Edited by DADoESTX, 17 December 2013 - 12:59 PM.


#7 jerH

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 01:27 PM

Ahhh...that makes me feel much more confident about the pump and the pump alone being the issue.Local repair place has the part in stock for ~$85 so I'll pick it up today or tomorrow and update if it fixes things.



#8 MA tech.

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 05:52 PM

220v.??????????? Is this washer being used in Europe? To the best of my knowledge, limited as it may be, No washer in a domestic application is operating with 220 volts. However I do think a pump is the likely culprit in your saga.

 

Please post a picture of the cord end cap in the event you would like someone to verify this.

 

Good luck. 



#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 07:28 PM

GWL10 has a 230v pump, not 120v.  120v feeding to it, it couldn't run at all.

 

GWL10 runs main power through the pump ... so the entire machine goes dead when the pump shuts down on thermal overheat ... then revives when the pump's thermal overheat cools and resets.

 

 

Good catch, Dado.  Yep, the pumps on these run on 230v as called out in the FP manual:   http://appliantology...ctronic-washer/



#10 jerH

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 07:36 PM

Yep, the guy at Authorized Appliance Repair verified it's a 230v pump.  I'll be interested to see where the new one comes from....the old one is marked "Made in France".



#11 MA tech.

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 09:42 PM

In what state are you located?



#12 J5

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 10:11 PM

Yep, the guy at Authorized Appliance Repair verified it's a 230v pump.  I'll be interested to see where the new one comes from....the old one is marked "Made in France".

 

still france iirc they are a sellini pump



#13 jerH

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 10:11 PM

Ohio

#14 jerH

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 11:56 AM

Seems to have done the trick!  Thanks for your help.






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