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Gas Dryer Connector Extension Okay?

gas appliance connector extension daisy chain

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16 replies to this topic

#1 Kristofer

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 03:06 PM

Hello!

 

Glad to see the Samurai still online. Ten years ago I spent $50 for him to repair my freezer by phone and it was the best investment ever!

 

I have just moved to a house with a gas line shutoff in the garage...perfect for my wife's gas dryer. Problem is, if I put the dryer at the end of the 60' appliance connector, it's still in the way of where the car goes!

 

Can I connect another appliance connector tube of 60" to make a ten foot line? That will reach my dryer with a foot or two to spare. If I wrap the mail ends fof all the fittings with plumber's tape as I would with a single hookup, will this two-tube daisy chan be effective and safe?

 

Yes, the mfg directions say to not do it. So let's explore this hypothetically if necessary...

 

And if the answer is NO then what would you suggest for a connection that is eight to ten feet away from my appliance?

 

Thanks!



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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 07:29 PM

What material is the existing gas stub out?
Copper?
Black iron?

A 90 degree fitting and a solid pipe 8 feet long would put you in range of your 60" connector and a new shutoff.

Be sure and strap it to the wall every 3 feet.



#3 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 08:08 PM

Pictures?


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#4 Kristofer

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 09:16 PM

Okay, I don't mind the pipe idea...just have no clue how to do that, though I suspect there's a handy fix-it manual somewhere...

 

Here are the pictures requested:

 

1.jpg

This is the wall with the valve on the right and the dryer on the left, with my car taking up space. The two 60" apliance connectors shown, also.

 

2.jpg

This is the valve.

 

3.jpg

Back of dryer and wall. I'd like the dryer to be in the corner, with the gas connection that is on the bottom right to be in the corner.

 

Thoughts? Suggestions? Is connecting the two appliance connectors a no go?



#5 certified tech group 51

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:22 PM

Depending on the gas laws for your area.....You may need to run solid pipe from the shut-off to another connection, ( for the flex line ) to connect to,  I.E. you can only use a 5 foot flex line max.  in length.....   If you don't care about any stinken laws, you attach  some 2X4's to the wall and run the flex line on top of the 2X4......that way, if the car hits the wall, the 2X4's protect the line from getting crushed.........Some areas you can use flex line the full distance, but you will need to install a few bollards  to stop any vehicles from getting close......What size is your line you will be using???...1/2 inch should be O.K......



#6 Kristofer

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:39 PM

It's half-inch line. I was considering running the flex through three inch pvc with access at the connector so the line would be protected but I could still access to test for leaks.

 

Laws inside my house are first governed by God, then me, then my dog, then my dog's fleas. If none of us are present, then the Government can have their crack atit...we won't be here. ,) Ergo, if it's safe within the limits of God's physics andmy dog being able to breathe if she is cooped up in the garage, then I'm good and feel no need to render unto Caesar what ain't his...if you know what I mean!

 

Oh...and Mama wants her dryer. When it comes to appliances, her law trumps mine.



#7 -Mike-

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 12:16 AM

Would it work? Yes. Would I do it? No.

Its easy enough to  put an elbo on the existing gas line comming out of the wall and extend it over with black pipe to where it needs to be so thats what I would do. Again, thats just what I would do.

 

BTW, a thread sealer such as teflon tape or Rector seal or whatever should only be used on pipe thread. The flare fittings on the flex line should be assembled clean and dry, tightened properly and then checked for leaks. If a sealer of any type is needed on a flare fitting to keep it from leaking the line should be replaced.



#8 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 01:51 AM

I feel the distance is too much to be connecting multiple gas flex lines together. A long metal pipe spanning most of the distance seems best to me. You could put a short flex line connecting from one end of the pipe to the valve at the wall, and a 2nd short flex line connecting the other end of the pipe to the dryer. The pipe itself could be secured somehow to the floor concrete and up against the wall.

 

Seem okay?


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#9 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 01:54 AM

Probably better to do the elbow to pipe idea, actually. Then put the valve at the end of your new pipe close to the dryer so you only need to run one flex line.


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#10 Kristofer

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 09:32 AM

Okay...i do not have a problem adding/fitting pipe, but I do not know whatto ask for, assuming I get that at the plumbing supply store as opposed to Lowe's?

 

Speaking od Lowe's, would this do the same trick as the pipe:

 

http://www.lowes.com...+kit&facetInfo=

 

It's meant for running inside walls, but if I protect it/mount it on the wall would it be suitable?

 

Thanksfor the conversation and ideas, folks. I'm really grateful!



#11 Kristofer

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:40 PM

Hope you guys are still hanging with me...

 

I went aheadand dd the black pipe...after many lessons and trips to the store, and one cut thumb, it all worked out okay except for one thing...I have a leak at one point. Here is the picture:

 

4.jpg

5.jpg

 

So, what do I do?

 

This is the only leak in the line, at the flex pipe whose other end connects to the dryer itself. That's the brass flare end going into the flex line that is leaking. No sealant used on that flare end, as I understand the rule is to NOT sealant or tape flare ends.

 

Much appreciate your attention and assistance!



#12 certified tech group 51

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 12:03 AM

The gas  flex line, is that a new unused part???................Turn off the fuel supply and disconnect the leaking end and check the flair fitting at both ends for nicks and scrapes............



#13 Kristofer

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 12:15 AM

It is new, though I originally had a fitting on it that came with the line, between the brass fitting and the line that you see in the picture. That was leaking, though, and I realized it was a redundancy, so I removed it and did what you see in the picture. The flex line was on that other fitting very tight.

#14 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 03:32 AM

The brass fitting in the picture looks old. Did you/Can you put a brand new one there for the gas line to mate to?


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#15 jumptrout

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 07:21 AM

You should remove the flex line and install a gas stop cock.

Then put the flex on the stop.

If there are no nicks in the fitting you simply have to tighten the fitting more.



#16 -Mike-

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 10:42 AM

The flare fittings neet to be tighter then the pipe fittings. With two wrenches, one  to hold the pipe threads from turning,  tighten that thing up untill the leak stops. 



#17 Kristofer

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 11:22 AM

I will give all these a shot...except the brass fitting is new, purchased yesterday.

 

Will report results.







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