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Kenmore Wall Oven, replaced element, still no heat.

kenmore bake element wall oven built in no heat

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18 replies to this topic

#1 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 08:38 PM

Hello, hope I can get some help here, first post. 

 

I have a Kenmore wall oven from about 1994 - Model No: C970-47121-3. The wife was using the oven and we heard a fairly loud popping noise and no heat. Bake element was visibly damaged, ordered a new one, installed and still no heat. The light inside the oven works, the digital display works but the red/orange light does not come on when set to bake, broil, or any setting. No heat from either element. I have a multimeter and am not afraid to use it LOL. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!



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#2 Scottthewolf

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 08:46 PM

More than likely the clock/ electronic control board is damaged. I can't help you with part numbers because you have a Canadian built unit.


Scott Wolf

#3 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 09:14 PM

Now the model I have has dials for the light, temp, and broil,bake,time bake. The board could still be the issue?



#4 applianceman97

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 09:40 PM

If it has a mechanical thermostat, that could be the problem. Or selector switch.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#5 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:49 PM

Is there a way to attach pictures in this forum?



#6 applianceman97

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:11 PM

You have to post the pic link from a 3rd party picture site like photobucket.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#7 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:12 PM

If you have house fuses replace them both. If you have a circuit breaker box,locate the oven breaker, flip it all the way off and then back to on position. If I was a loud pop was heard than you likely blew out a breaker/fuse.



#8 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:15 PM

Remember- the bake and broil element need 220v. The clock and lights a so forth are 120v components. likely one leg was lost after blow out allowing for only 120v components to operate properly. Not the elements. I think you will be good.



#9 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:16 PM

I had the breaker off to change the element. The pop was heard by the people in the kitchen right in front of the oven. I would assume (i know, i know) that the noise was the hole that blew in the element.



#10 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:21 PM

You have to start with confirming that  220-230 volts are coming into unit.( pig tail ).



#11 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:25 PM

I posted some pics on photobucket if that may help any of the experts here. http://s1292.photobu...lfel66/library/


I have to check the voltage even though the light inside and the display are working? If I shut the breaker off the light does not work and no display, so I would figure the unit is getting power?



#12 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:27 PM

Do you have a wiring diagram



#13 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:29 PM

No, I have not been able to find one yet. There is a very slight possibility that I do have the owners manual for it, given to me by the previous homeowner ( mother-in-law LOL!) If its in my garage its buried. 



#14 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:39 PM

I looked at the pictures you posted. It looks like you have a separate bake/broil selector switch. These are long gone in the states.

You may be tempted to order and replace the oven control but it might well have something to do with that BB switch.

It is not unusual to have other components fail if the rupture was violent enough. You really need to know where we are losing that leg (This is tough without a schematic.) before just ordering control. I will keep tring to locate a diagram for you, This is a Kelvinator product. The have been sold a couple of times in the last 20 years.



#15 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:42 PM

I have no advice for you on the mother-in-law. Good luck. I would think a consumption of  multiple brews would be a safe start.


Edited by MA tech., 16 December 2013 - 11:43 PM.


#16 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:47 PM

LOL MA Tech, shes actually really cool, no worries there. I though that this thing was made by Frigidaire, that was who made the element I think.



#17 MA tech.

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:53 PM

Frigidaire was a WCI company along  with Kelvinator. So it is certainly related but, that BB switch is still unusual to be found with an electronic control. At least in the states. I will se what I can do tomorrow.

 

Good night.



#18 relfel66

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:54 PM

Well thanks for the help tonight guys, going to rummage around the garage and try to find that manual, hopefully there is a wiring diagram in there. 



#19 relfel66

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 01:20 AM

Found the "Use and Care Guide" and a separate wiring diagram. Both show fuse a fuse box, mounted on the back, is that correct? Shows 2 30A and 1 15A fuses.







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