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Kitchen Aid Gas Range KGSA906PSS00 - oven not lighting consistently


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15 replies to this topic

#1 frunch

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 08:22 PM

I have a customer with a Kitchen Aid gas range that uses the spark ignition type of bake and broil burners. When testing the bake burner in the oven, I set the control to 350 degrees and started it. Shortly after starting it, I heard the gas valve open and the ignitor proceeded to activate 4 times in sets of 2: tick-tick, tick-tick, tick-tick, tick-tick...the burner did not light, then the gas valve shut off. I think I read a while ago on the Samurai's blog about an upgrade burner with more holes near the ignitor to provide more consistent ignition, but I haven't looked up that article yet. Just wanted to get some input from my fellow Appliantologists: any suggestions where to start diagnosing this problem? Does the fact that the gas valve opened and the ignitor ticked mean the gas valve and spark module motherboard are probably ok? I don't run into too many of these ranges, so I would love to get some info about this problem in order to better tackle this issue. Again, the model # is KGSA906PSS00. 

Thanks!
Trevor



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#2 -Mike-

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:07 PM

I've replaced burners for that.  As soon as it starts sparking see if you can light the burner with a BBQ lighter. If it lights look at the flame and see if  you have a good flame right at the ignitor.



#3 certified tech group 51

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:28 PM

Is the manual  shutoff valve open????........Do you have 216 ohms. across each terminal at the gas valve?????..............  8 to 18 VDC at the gas valve ?????...........................Got manual KR-28???..



#4 frunch

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 01:10 AM

Great tips, thanks to you both! I'll bring a bbq lighter next time and see if the flame comes out next to the ignitor. If the flame does come out strongly from the burner would it be advisable to replace the burner?

I'll definitely ohm out the gas valve for resistance. Which terminals should I be checking for 8-18 vdc? I don't have the repair manual, I'll see if there's one here at Appliantology.org. Does anyone have a link for one?

 

Thanks again! I'll follow up when I get a chance to go back.

Trevor

Edit: Found the manual here, provided by the indomitable RegUS_PatOff!

http://appliantology...si-kr-28/?hl=kr


Edited by frunch, 18 December 2013 - 01:14 AM.


#5 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 06:32 AM

These have rather flaky spark modules. Bake burner has to be well grounded for spark path. Also look at the intensity of the broil ignitor spark as you test the bake, as these spark at the same time.


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#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 08:21 AM

 Does the fact that the gas valve opened and the ignitor ticked mean the gas valve and spark module motherboard are probably ok? 

 

 

Another troubleshooting technique I've used is to hold remove the bottom of the oven cell so you have clear access to the bake burner and hold a match to the ignition ports while starting the bake.  I know, I know, "Ooo, betcha singed some hair on your arm!"  Yeah, if you're 80 years old and move like a slug.  If it fires up, move your arm out of the way and order the bake tube:  Part number: AP3879440

Part number: AP3879440

 

If it doesn't ignite, and you have spark, then replace the gas valve: Part number: AP3886450

Part number: AP3886450



#7 frunch

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 05:57 PM

Thanks for the info, Samurai! I tried the youtube video, but there appears to be something wrong with the link. I'll be heading over to take another look tomorrow or Friday, so I'll follow up when I get the chance to see what's going on.



#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 05:59 PM

Thanks for the info, Samurai! I tried the youtube video, but there appears to be something wrong with the link. 

 

 

Yeah, something's borked with APP's video embed that's all part of the nifty, yellow APP button.  Just click on the picture above the video and watch the video on the APP site.  



#9 -Mike-

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 10:43 PM

look at the picture of the valve the Saurai posted. Check the small valve on the top right corner and make sure the handle is pointed out like it is in the picture.

I don't know if that is off if it will cut gas to the oven, or maybe just the surface burners, but be sure someone didn't knock it with something and turn the gas off.



#10 DanInKansas

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 09:12 AM

Recently had this exact problem on a Maytag range. Check your wall outlet for good clean voltage! In my case, the customer was in an older house and what was supposed to be neutral had been wired as "hot", so the board was receiving hot where she did not expect it. Corrected wiring and a new board solved the problem. 



#11 frunch

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 08:36 PM

Went and took another look at the range. It is getting good gas flow at the burner right next to the ignitor and everywhere else on the burner. I also flipped the gas shut-off on the gas valve off and then back on. Both the broil and bake coils on the gas valve tested at 206 ohms, which is within the 'good' range of resistance. Burner turns on and lights the gas 75% of the time, but every so often it doesn't light the gas, though it does spark. Time for a new burner?



#12 Thirstytech

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Posted 23 December 2013 - 12:52 PM

Went and took another look at the range. It is getting good gas flow at the burner right next to the ignitor and everywhere else on the burner. I also flipped the gas shut-off on the gas valve off and then back on. Both the broil and bake coils on the gas valve tested at 206 ohms, which is within the 'good' range of resistance. Burner turns on and lights the gas 75% of the time, but every so often it doesn't light the gas, though it does spark. Time for a new burner?

Yep, either replace it or depending on the condition take it outside and clean it out real good.  Be sure to chase each port hole with a straightened out paper clip or piece of wire.



#13 frunch

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 03:01 PM

Finally got back to the customers house to fix the oven, installed a new spark module motherboard and a new burner w/ ignitor and that fixed it. I was quite surprised to see the motherboard had all kinds of corrosion and stuff on it, not exactly sure how or why it got that way, but there's no doubt in my mind at this point that the motherboard was the primary culprit. I've attached a couple pics of the board for reference. Anyways, just wanted to follow up! Thanks to everyone who helped out!

Trevor

 

 

Attached Files



#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 03:22 PM

Nice job!  Great pics, too-- thanks for posting those!  



#15 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 06:26 AM

<~~~~~ Who said spark module?


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

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#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 08:06 AM

Yep, Brother Chat called the ball on this one right outta the gate! Good call, Chat!




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