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LG refrigerator ER FF code

Freezer Fan

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12 replies to this topic

#1 jbgood

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 09:37 PM

I have a LG side by side refrigerator model LRSC26922TT. I am getting a Er FF code and I replaced the freezer fan but the new fan is not spinning and after a few moments I get the Er FF code ageain. The refrigerator motor is sounding normal, the freezer is getting cold but the fresh food side is warm. I need help.

 

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#2 BryanS

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 09:47 PM

All I can say is when I ran those tech support said to change the main board and fan motor at the same time. The only time I just changed the fan was if the motor was physically locked up. I've also had some where both were changed and it didn't fix the problem. The one that comes to mind is one I stuck a motor in and ordered the board because it worked for a minute then stopped. Wether they have be changed at the exact same time, I don't know. I think the tech that went after me just refunded their money. Hopefully someone else can give some input on their experience with this problem.

#3 jbgood

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 10:18 PM

Thanks for the response BryanS. When I took the panel off the back wall to get to the fan there was no ice buildup, it all looked normal except the old fan was not spinning.  I will have to make a decision soon.



#4 BryanS

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 10:46 PM

Yea LG can be tricky. The problem working at Sears I didn't always get to go back on the refrigerators I ordered parts for. I believe the tech that went back and put the main board on figured it may be a wiring problem in the cabinet which isn't serviceable. Also possible that the old main board took out the new motor and when he installed the main board it didn't work because maybe the new motor is now bad. I wish I had a definite answer but I really didn't run to many of these. Does the motor run at all? You could check voltage on the board but you need those needle point leads. They usually have a schematic on the back of the fridge. Those fans are typically DC voltage. I think they have 3 pins on the main board for the evaporator fan. If I'm not mistaken the connectors may be labeled on the board. The left and right pin on the connnector I believe are voltage to the motor and I think the middle and right pin are feedback voltage from the fan motor. It may be left and middle is feedback voltage. It's been awhile.

#5 BryanS

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 10:52 PM

Well technically you don't have to have needle point leads. I have taped sewing needles to my regular multimeter leads and did it that way. They are kind flimsy.

#6 john63

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 12:27 AM

<<<I am getting a Er FF code and I replaced the freezer fan but the new fan is not spinning and after a few moments I get the Er FF code ageain.>>>

 

**********

 

The "ER/FF" error occurs when the Main Board does not receive signal feedback after 115 seconds---from the Freezer Fan Motor sensor (internal rotor position sensor). 

 

Test for voltage from the Main Board-to-the-Evaporator-Fan-Motor (Freezer Fan Motor)

 

Remove the cover---at the top of the refrigerator.

 

With a good flashlight (and a magnifying glass if needed)---locate the plug on the Main Board marked: "CON7"---and remove/pull off the plug.

 

Using a Test Meter---check the voltage (on the Main Board) marked: "G" and "V"---should have about 12.8 volts DC (or anywhere from 7.5VDC to 16VDC).

 

NOTE: The reason for the varying voltage---is that there are two fan speeds controlled by the Main Board.

At start-up (warm refrigerator)---the Fan Motor will run at HIGH speed.

After the temperature in the freezer becomes colder---the Fan Motor runs at REGULAR (slower) speed.

Activating the RAPID ICE (Optichill or Express Freeze---if available)---will cause the Fan Motor to run at HIGH speed for longer periods (usually up to 24 hours).

Another interesting thing to be mindful of---if the freezer is at or near set temperature (fan running at REGULAR speed)---and the freezer door is opened---the Fan Motor will *stop* running.

If the Fan Motor is running at HIGH speed when the door is opened---the Fan Motor will run at REGULAR speed (while the door is open) rather than turn off.

 

Test the voltage at "G" and "F"---should be 2.5 volts DC  (note: older LG boards *may* be marked: "G" and "L")

 

Replace the Main Board if no voltage.

 

This is an older model/design LG refrigerator.

 

The original Evaporator Fan Motor (4681JB1017D) has been replaced by an improved Motor (4681JB1029A)---beginning April 2002 (Serial Number 204KRxxx and higher). 

 

This new Evaporator Motor has better sealing to protect the Intergrated Circuit (tiny circuit board inside motor) from moisture.

 

Additionally---the Main Board was changed/improved.

 

The correct replacement should be (6871JB1259D)

 

Typically---as years pass---there may be a dozen "corrections" done to the Main Board. Most of them are software updates---and not all updates are published as a Service Bulletin

Some "tweaking" of the software is so minor that it's not worth the time & effort publishing anything about it.

One of the biggest improvements---was the addition of larger Relays (on/off switches).

 

BryanS mentioned the possibility of a "wire problem" that is "unrepairable". 

 

While this is certainly a possibility---it is the least likely.

 

Two other areas that should be checked...

 

1) Freezer door "lightswitch" (6600JB3007B)---As these switches become older---they're prone to intermittent failure.

 

2) Plugs and wiring at the freezer door hinge (top)


Yea LG can be tricky. The problem working at Sears I didn't always get to go back on the refrigerators I ordered parts for. I believe the tech that went back and put the main board on figured it may be a wiring problem in the cabinet which isn't serviceable. Also possible that the old main board took out the new motor and when he installed the main board it didn't work because maybe the new motor is now bad. I wish I had a definite answer but I really didn't run to many of these. Does the motor run at all? You could check voltage on the board but you need those needle point leads. They usually have a schematic on the back of the fridge. Those fans are typically DC voltage. I think they have 3 pins on the main board for the evaporator fan. If I'm not mistaken the connectors may be labeled on the board. The left and right pin on the connnector I believe are voltage to the motor and I think the middle and right pin are feedback voltage from the fan motor. It may be left and middle is feedback voltage. It's been awhile.

 

Well technically you don't have to have needle point leads. I have taped sewing needles to my regular multimeter leads and did it that way. They are kind flimsy.

 

 

I'm Impressed:)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 BryanS

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 12:36 AM

Haha. The reason I had to use sewing needles is because when I first started at Sears I was talking to tech support and was told to use my needle leads. Sears never gave me any. After that I bought my own, and was one of the few techs who even had them for a long time. I would imagine quite a few techs must have been shotgunning calls without them :) Finally our manager came in one day and gave everyone a set. I actually had no idea those kind of leads existed until that day.

Edited by BryanS, 19 December 2013 - 12:42 AM.


#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 09:55 AM

I have the alligator clips that push onto the ends of the meter probes that I tape a needle in each one with electrical tape.  Not flimsy and makes great mini-probes if you don't have the mini-probe kit.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
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#9 BryanS

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 10:55 AM

I didn't have alligator clips either :) Sears was a joke. Most of the tools in my bag were mine because their stuff was junk.

#10 jbgood

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 12:11 PM

John thanks for the information it was very helpful, I ran the test that you recommended and found that the board is defective, no power the fan. in fact I found a burnt chip right next to the Con7 plug marked Q6. What should I be testing before I install the new board?



#11 clman

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 03:29 PM

This might be one of the models that got moisture in the fan connector to the cabinet or in the fan motor casing. This causes the main board fan circuit to burn out. The new fan and connector is sealed better to prevent this. In rare cases the fan wiring could be shorted to themselves or ground.


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#12 jbgood

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 04:50 PM

I did installed a new fan but it never worked. Subsequently I discovered that the main board is bad, so before I install the new PCB I would like to test the fan but don't know any procedure for testing. Can you help with a testing procedure?



#13 john63

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 09:12 PM

9 volt battery

 

2 strips of wire :)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"





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