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Kenmore Softener 625.348491 resin replacement


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8 replies to this topic

#1 tmfixit2

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 04:50 PM

So the water pressure and volume dropped significantly over the last month or so.  Or maybe it just got so low that it's more noticeable now, but the culprit is definitely the water softener.  Took it all apart and found the bottom filter plugged up nicely.  After cleaning all the gunk out of the tanks I've decided to replace the resin.  Stock from Sears is expensive but I see a lot of replacement type resin.  The repair manual says 'high capacity resin' but I've found only regular and fine mesh resins.  Don't exactly know the difference.  Can I purchase the correct resin here?

 

tony



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#2 kdog

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 10:46 PM

Generally speaking, resin does not "wear out" as it is used for ion exchange - unless you have some nast iron etc in your water. When that is the case, the resin bed becomes caked and hardens into a mass and does not flow freely. The high efficient resin refers to the fine screened resin, it is the surface area of the resin beads that determines the efficiency - regular resin will do the same job as high efficient, you just need more of it since the normal bead size is larger than the finer beads. The resin in your unit is cation resin.  If the lower distributor became plugged, then the small beads have gotten through the screen of the distributor, and it should be replaced.  Do hou havd at least 12 lineal feet of plumbing between softener and hot water tank ?  If not - hot water can leach into it and disfigure plastic parts in the softener.

I believe your unit is a 1994 model, and if it has never been serviced, the valve is due to be re- sealed, the simplest way to replace resin is to change out the resin tank (approx $400) and should not really be considered as a whole new softener is likely in the same price range. The tank is not supposed to be full to the top with resin beads as it requires this "freeboard" area to properly flush all of the beads during regeneration.


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#3 kdog

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 10:55 PM

At one time, softener parts were available through RepairClinic, but the numbers do not work for me right now - the part numbers you will require are as follows: Lower Distributor 7105047;  Seal Kit 7129716; Nozzle/Venturi ass'y 7187065.


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#4 mark mac

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Posted 22 December 2013 - 12:26 PM

Not cost effective to change resin bed



#5 tmfixit2

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Posted 23 December 2013 - 06:53 PM

kdog, thanks for the info.  New distributors top and bottom on order along with the seal kit.  Nozzle/venturi is fine.  I purchased the cation resin locally from a water conditioning place for $100.  Seemed like a good price considering the added shipping prices for buying online.  I'll have the all the parts tomorrow and back in operation in about an hour.  My only decision is whether or not to use a gravel base or not.  This unit did not have one originally.  Any advantage to using the gravel or not?

 

tony



#6 kdog

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Posted 24 December 2013 - 03:52 AM

Gravel bases have not been used for a number of years.  If your resin is not caked, you are likely wasting your hundred bucks. If you do, make sure you don't fill the resin tank completely - the 13 inches of freeboard is required.

When you receive your lower distributor, check the length against the old one as the replacements are all one length and may need to be cut to the proper length. I always seal the bottom area where the foot valve connects to the tube with silicone (and allow to cure) this will prevent it from twisting and opening up to allow beads to enter.

To push the valve down into ghe resin, connect a bose to a faucet and run the water into the middle of the tube as you push it down - that will alow the valve to push through the resin without damage.


The nozzle venturi assembly should be replaced as the washers inside compress and reduce suction during brine draw.


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#7 tmfixit2

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Posted 24 December 2013 - 11:32 AM

Thanks, no gravel bed will be used.

 

The tube, upper distributor and valve connection looked like it was gonna be a problem, but after carefully checking the clearances it appears that all of it sealed nicely with an O-ring that seals the pipe to the valve, then the valve also compresses that same O-ring between the valve and the upper distributor where the tube comes through.  I may use a small bead of silicone between the pipe and the upper distributor, just in case.

 

Service manual calls for 7 to 11 inches of freeboard.  Shooting for 8-9".  It was only 6 inches originally.

tony



#8 tmfixit2

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Posted 25 December 2013 - 05:33 PM

Resin, distributors and other parts replaced.  Water pressure and volume restored to normal.  No beads in the coffee this morning.

All appears to be back to normal.  No leaks.  Job was worth the cost and the time taken.

 

tony



#9 cscooper

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 10:58 AM

Hey Tony -

I am looking at replacing the resin in my Kenmore Genius II (model 625.348670), do you have a minute to advise me on the best way to take this beast apart?  After taking the top off, I can't really tell which doodad to remove first.  I've got the owner's manual but it's no help...

Thanks,

Chris


Edited by cscooper, 05 April 2014 - 10:58 AM.





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