Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 30 March 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, March 30 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Kenmore Softener 625.348491 resin replacement


tmfixit2

Recommended Posts

So the water pressure and volume dropped significantly over the last month or so.  Or maybe it just got so low that it's more noticeable now, but the culprit is definitely the water softener.  Took it all apart and found the bottom filter plugged up nicely.  After cleaning all the gunk out of the tanks I've decided to replace the resin.  Stock from Sears is expensive but I see a lot of replacement type resin.  The repair manual says 'high capacity resin' but I've found only regular and fine mesh resins.  Don't exactly know the difference.  Can I purchase the correct resin here?

 

tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Generally speaking, resin does not "wear out" as it is used for ion exchange - unless you have some nast iron etc in your water. When that is the case, the resin bed becomes caked and hardens into a mass and does not flow freely. The high efficient resin refers to the fine screened resin, it is the surface area of the resin beads that determines the efficiency - regular resin will do the same job as high efficient, you just need more of it since the normal bead size is larger than the finer beads. The resin in your unit is cation resin.  If the lower distributor became plugged, then the small beads have gotten through the screen of the distributor, and it should be replaced.  Do hou havd at least 12 lineal feet of plumbing between softener and hot water tank ?  If not - hot water can leach into it and disfigure plastic parts in the softener.

I believe your unit is a 1994 model, and if it has never been serviced, the valve is due to be re- sealed, the simplest way to replace resin is to change out the resin tank (approx $400) and should not really be considered as a whole new softener is likely in the same price range. The tank is not supposed to be full to the top with resin beads as it requires this "freeboard" area to properly flush all of the beads during regeneration.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

At one time, softener parts were available through RepairClinic, but the numbers do not work for me right now - the part numbers you will require are as follows: Lower Distributor 7105047;  Seal Kit 7129716; Nozzle/Venturi ass'y 7187065.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

kdog, thanks for the info.  New distributors top and bottom on order along with the seal kit.  Nozzle/venturi is fine.  I purchased the cation resin locally from a water conditioning place for $100.  Seemed like a good price considering the added shipping prices for buying online.  I'll have the all the parts tomorrow and back in operation in about an hour.  My only decision is whether or not to use a gravel base or not.  This unit did not have one originally.  Any advantage to using the gravel or not?

 

tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gravel bases have not been used for a number of years.  If your resin is not caked, you are likely wasting your hundred bucks. If you do, make sure you don't fill the resin tank completely - the 13 inches of freeboard is required.

When you receive your lower distributor, check the length against the old one as the replacements are all one length and may need to be cut to the proper length. I always seal the bottom area where the foot valve connects to the tube with silicone (and allow to cure) this will prevent it from twisting and opening up to allow beads to enter.

To push the valve down into ghe resin, connect a bose to a faucet and run the water into the middle of the tube as you push it down - that will alow the valve to push through the resin without damage.


The nozzle venturi assembly should be replaced as the washers inside compress and reduce suction during brine draw.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, no gravel bed will be used.

 

The tube, upper distributor and valve connection looked like it was gonna be a problem, but after carefully checking the clearances it appears that all of it sealed nicely with an O-ring that seals the pipe to the valve, then the valve also compresses that same O-ring between the valve and the upper distributor where the tube comes through.  I may use a small bead of silicone between the pipe and the upper distributor, just in case.

 

Service manual calls for 7 to 11 inches of freeboard.  Shooting for 8-9".  It was only 6 inches originally.

tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Resin, distributors and other parts replaced.  Water pressure and volume restored to normal.  No beads in the coffee this morning.

All appears to be back to normal.  No leaks.  Job was worth the cost and the time taken.

 

tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Hey Tony -

I am looking at replacing the resin in my Kenmore Genius II (model 625.348670), do you have a minute to advise me on the best way to take this beast apart?  After taking the top off, I can't really tell which doodad to remove first.  I've got the owner's manual but it's no help...

Thanks,

Chris

Edited by cscooper
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...