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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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dan.farmer1@gmail.com

Admiral AED4675YQ1 Dryer won't stay on

17 posts in this topic

I've the same problem with my Admiral AED4675YQ1 but I can't find any parts except the start switch which I've already replaced. This unit may still be in warranty but I cannot find and proof of purchase even though I bought it online! Keep your receipts huh!

Dan

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I've the same problem with my Admiral AED4675YQ1 but I can't find any parts except the start switch which I've already replaced. This unit may still be in warranty but I cannot find and proof of purchase even though I bought it online! Keep your receipts huh!

Dan

 

  That model does not have a belt switch. Problem is most likely a faulty motor switch or wiring connection at motor (black wire).

 

Eric

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Topic split.  

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Push the button and the drum rolls but release it and it stops. Hold the button down for a long time and the drum rolls but there is no heat. At one point several tries would get it started but now it will not continue running no matter what. The unit may still be under warranty but I cannot find any proof of purchase. I replaced the start switch to no avail. I believe there is a motor relay or something that needs to be replaced but finding parts for this thing is difficult. I imagine it uses the same parts as some Whirlpool models but I don't really know how to check. Any help is much appreciated, I'm getting tired of the laundrymat!

Dan

Merry Christmas!

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Sounds like a motor switch.

 

There is many ways to check it. My method is to take the front off the dryer and pull the drum out, then either bypass the door switch or put the front panel off to the right side so you can reconnect the door switch with the panel off and then with the timer in a run and heating position have someone hold the start button in and see if you have 240 volts on the two outside wires on the motor with it running. If you have 240 volts there the centrifical switch on the motor has failed.

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  There are two switches in the motor. That one is only for the heating element. It's the other one that provides neutral to keep the motor running once it's started and that's the one you need to check. You can do this with washer unplugged and operating the switch manually while checking continuity between the black and white wires at motor connector.

 

Eric

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Duplicate topics merged.  

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  There are two switches in the motor. That one is only for the heating element. It's the other one that provides neutral to keep the motor running once it's started and that's the one you need to check. You can do this with washer unplugged and operating the switch manually while checking continuity between the black and white wires at motor connector.

 

Eric

Yeah you're right but since it's not heating I'm thinking the centrifical switch is stuck or there is a mechanical failure with it which wouldn't allow the motor run winding points or the heater points to close. That would be detectable if the heater switch is not closing. I figured that would be the easiest way to explain how to to check it.

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  Gotcha. Appears that the centrifugal mechanism may be the culprit since neither the heater works nor the neutral connection for motor once start button is released. Easy to check manually.

 

Eric

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Well I got it all apart but not sure what the centrifugal switch is or if it is replacable. I've attached the wiring diagram and a picture of the motor. I see in the wiring diagram a start coil and a main coil and a switch that ties the main coil to neutral but there aren't any part numbers. I don't see how the heater is part of that though.

Thanks!

Dan

PS Dotted lines in the wiring diagram indicate part may or may not be used...

post-90235-0-53284200-1388029610_thumb.j

post-90235-0-92429600-1388029612_thumb.j

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The black and white wires at the motor do have continunity with the start button is press. Just checked it.

Dan

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  See photo below. Push the centrifugal mechanism disc toward the rear of the motor to operate the motor switch. You must hold it back while taking readings. With switch activated, you should have continuity between the terminals on the motor switch where the red wires connect and between where the black and white wires connect.

 

Eric

 

DryerMotorSwitch.jpg

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The black and white wires at the motor do have continunity with the start button is press. Just checked it.

Dan

 

  Can't check it that way.

 

  Here is the circuit with motor running and switch activated. Heater circuit is closed as is neutral circuit for motor.

 

DryerCircuit.jpg

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  You'll probably find that the motor switch is bad. Unfortunately, Whirlpool sourced motors from China for a while and those motors have been problematic. The bolted together frame of the motor is a telltale sign that it's made in China. The good motors made in the U.S. and Mexico are welded together. If you have to replace that motor, you will get one of the good motors. The switch is not available alone.

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/vwo4/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/279827/2584?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=W10366770

 

Eric

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I don't think I have any other choice but to replace the motor. It is still better than $300+ for a new dryer of the same make but now I'll have a better motor and maybe it will be a little quieter! 

 

I see in the edit of the wiring diagram how the main coil switch and the heater switch are ganged. I'm not used to these wiring diagrams. 

 

Thanks for the explanations!

 

Dan

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Got the new motor this morning and just put it in. We are back in working order. I thank you as well as my wallet and my wife!

Dan

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