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Maytag dishwasher MDB7600AWS: (1) Substitute for door seal? (2) Float leak

dishwasher maytag leak seal float door

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#1 dkmn

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Posted 26 December 2013 - 06:06 PM

Greetings esteemed appliantologists! 

 

I am ministering to my Maytag dishwasher, designated MDB7600AWS but known in our household as "The Dishwasher". 

 

The whole story started with dirty upper rack dishes and insidious loss of cleaning performance... I cleaned the heck out of the water distribution system and flow plate/impeller/whatsamajiggy.  Only later, by studying the posted wisdom of The Samurai, like I mean *The* Samurai (disclaimer: I am not worthy), did I discover the true cause of this blight upon our house: The Stripped Plastic Spindle. 

Contemplating the stripped plastic part, I thought first "ah, how beautiful and subtle is the playing out of the laws of physics in our world... how sublime!".  Second, I thought, "I wonder what genius decided to save 20cents per unit on this part" (and, in so doing, sold our land into desolation!!!... as Henry V might have said, upon encountering the same problem). 

Seeing the new metal impeller spindle brought a big smile to my face. 

 

So, now that water actually moves vigorously through the unit, two leaks become more apparent:

1) the main door gasket, along the lower left

2) a slow leak about the float stem (not dripping from elsewhere, but actually originating there... I found a lot of detergent crud, meaning this was not strictly new)

 

I decided to meditate upon #2 at first (water level seems nominal although I understand it could be too high by design... lower spray arm looks ok)

 

However, #1 was threatening the harmony of our 11-person Christmas dinner, so as an experiment I bought some 1/2 x 1/2" firm closed-cell foam generic weatherstripping at the hardware store and put it in... Surprise, it worked!  I soaked the old gasket in vinegar and cleaned it and set it aside, but it does look a bit old and slightly flattened.  I have also heard that it can be helpful to reinstall it rotated 180 degrees (so the previously-indented side faces in). I have also read here about shimming behind the seal and it sounds like leaks along the door seal are not uncommon. 

 

May I ask your opinions on the following? 

For the door seal:

(1) Is there anything magical about the OEM door gasket seal? It seems rather pricey. I'd intended the weatherstripping as a temporary measure, but maybe I should stick with it? 

(2) Does the rotate-and-reinstall trick sound reasonable? (if the rubber is aged, seems like a partial solution only)

 

For the float stem "leak":

(1) Are the lower spray arm leaks subtle enough that I should try replacing it even if it looks OK?

(2) Should I just lower the water level empirically and see?  (by bending the switch arm or whittling down the stem)

 

Thanks much in advance!  

David


Edited by dkmn, 26 December 2013 - 06:10 PM.


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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 09:18 AM

 

For the door seal:

(1) Is there anything magical about the OEM door gasket seal? It seems rather pricey. I'd intended the weatherstripping as a temporary measure, but maybe I should stick with it? 

(2) Does the rotate-and-reinstall trick sound reasonable? (if the rubber is aged, seems like a partial solution only)

 

 

The door seal is made out rare and magical pixie bile, which you can see here:  http://www.repaircli...9002588/1011918

 

Use a non-OEM substitute at your own risk.  

 

 

For the float stem "leak":

(1) Are the lower spray arm leaks subtle enough that I should try replacing it even if it looks OK?

(2) Should I just lower the water level empirically and see?  (by bending the switch arm or whittling down the stem)

 

 

 

Are you sure the leak is originating from the float?  Usually, the leak is the motor seal, which can be confused as coming from the float to the uninitiated:  http://www.repaircli...Number=99003341

 

Very leak source and post your serial number is it is from the motor seal.  



#3 dkmn

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 04:47 PM

The door seal is made out rare and magical pixie bile, which you can see here:  http://www.repaircli...9002588/1011918

 

Use a non-OEM substitute at your own risk.  

 

 

<I am not worthy>

Ah, so desu! 

I know they also use unicorn blood a lot these days for parts... (watch out for synthetic Chinese unicorn blood, I am told). 

OEM it shall be! 

</I am not worthy>

 

 

 

 

Are you sure the leak is originating from the float?  Usually, the leak is the motor seal, which can be confused as coming from the float to the uninitiated:  http://www.repaircli...Number=99003341

 

Very leak source and post your serial number is it is from the motor seal.  

 

 

<I am not worthy>

No, it's kind of bothered me... I think I may have been wrong about the float stem/mount itself being the source. The majority of the scraped crud came off the float switch, but it's also the lowest point. I've also never seen a drip from any "quadrant" while it's running, just drops from the float stem... which made me suspect the water level/spray issue. 

That said, I went back and took some photos. As it happens, there is a small ring of detergent deposit *outside* the collar where the float stem passes, so it must be from outside (note: I cleaned a ton of stuff off from below here earlier). I see nothing inboard of the switch (moving towards the motor). However, there seems to be more crud on the door-side of the collar (see photo). 

ASIDE: My washer is old enough to use the old plastic spindle (SN: 23297212EL) so, based on your guidance, I actually already replaced everything with the new seal parts kit you referenced. Your advice was invaluable in diagnosing the stripped spindle as I couldn't feel the problem from above; had to block the rotor before I realized it wasn't holding when the shaft turned.  The repair included the motor seat "boot" around the shaft. I also cleaned and looked at the large gasket about the motor housing, and didn't see any defect. 
 
Looking further, I do see crudola deposits around the door (I knew there was a leak on the left, but there's also crud on the right corner and crud along the lower tub sides and front but *not* the bottom).... So... perhaps there is a subtle leak about the door seal(s)?  I know leaks within the door are possible; I took the door apart to work on the latch and don't remember any huge deposits (e.g. soap door or vent seal). 
 
Thoughts:
-regardless, replace the main door seal and re-check (maybe it's dripping down on the sides; the gasket had given up the ghost on the other side)
-do the above but replace the door gaskets (soap dish and vent) at the same time to avoid a more subtle source 
-is there another lower door seal that could/should be replaced at the same time (the discolored foam strip in my pictures)... looks like it might be a noise seal
 
Questions:
(1) Is there another functional leak seal along the lower door? Should I replace the horizontal strip of foam I see there? 
(2) Should I also replace the door gaskets now? (ie. subtle or more than one source)
 
 
Again, domo arigato gozaimasu! 
David
</I am not worthy>

Attached Files


Edited by dkmn, 27 December 2013 - 04:47 PM.


#4 dkmn

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 01:17 PM

Update

While running the dishwasher this morning, I looked carefully underneath it with camera, dry towel, and fingers (minding the wires). 

There are drops of liquid on the float stem and lower switch assembly, but NOT along the dry crud on the outside of the switch collar. So perhaps the old crud 

reflected a different leak which is now gone (e.g. with new temporary door seal). 

I do not see any gasket related to the switch holder on the parts diagram. I'll disassemble later today and look for any explanation or subtle crack along the stem housing in the tub flow

 

Else maybe the leak really is just from water being too high or splashing...

 

Thanks,

David



#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 09:00 PM

Water level is controlled by the timer.  The float is just a safety device in case the timer gets stuck.  You could try just replacing the float kit:  http://www.repaircli...0202535/1472642

 

Comes with a 365-day Return Policy:  http://www.repaircli...r/Return-Policy


#6 dkmn

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 11:09 PM

I pulled the float and couldn't find any obvious defect. When these go bad, what changes do you see? I notice some extra parts in this kit that look like threaded nuts; do these help seal anything? 



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 29 December 2013 - 02:57 PM

Usually can't see the cause for the leak, unless it's obviously broken  or cracked.  Gotta go with the visual leak source:  if it's leaking from the float, then replace the float.  Some things, you just can't overthink.  



#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 07:16 AM

Are you sure the leak isn't coming from above/inside the door.   These Maytag's are famous for the detergent dispenser latch seal leaking which will leak down the inside of the door and down the tub on the right hand side.


William Burk (Willie)
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#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 10:08 AM

I remember that old gasket trick. I'm not finding just the gasket (on my phone now). All I'm seeing is the dispenser assembly: http://www.repaircli...9003317/1074875

One way to verify if this is the problem is to remove the inner door panel and see if there's a soap scum trail on the inside.

#10 dkmn

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 01:21 PM

I had wondered the same thing after reading the forums.  I don't recall a soap scum trail inside the door, but I was more interested in the latch at the time.  I'll pull it again and check. 

Thanks!
David



#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 01:27 PM

I don't recall a soap scum trail inside the door, 

 

 

Have you already had the door separated apart?  That's where the soap scum trail would be visible. 



#12 dkmn

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 02:01 PM

Have you already had the door separated apart?  That's where the soap scum trail would be visible. 

Yes, and I recall glancing at the areas around the soap dispenser and the vent. Nothing jumped out at me, though at the time I was focusing on

the door latch, so I am thinking a more thoughtful look is in order...



#13 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 31 December 2013 - 08:20 AM

Sorry, I misspoke on this one, (should have known a MDB model is the newer style), I didn't look it up and looking at the pictures I was thinking it was the old original Maytag.  This is the newer style with the detergent/rinse agent dispenser all as one and I've never seen a problem with that style, (you should still check to make sure all the mounting screws are tight and no signs of leakage anywhere around the dispenser).


William Burk (Willie)
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#14 dkmn

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 10:56 PM

An update: 

 

-replaced the lower wash arm due to potential spray/wave issues... no significant change (watched the float stem before and after... no bob). 

-replaced the main door gasket (had to anyway)... no leaks along the sides

 

Still had drip along the float stem. So, I ground the float stem down about 2mm, used cyanoacrylate glue to re-fix the mushroom "button" to the end, and bent the float switch to turn off at the recommended level (from the PDF manual, along the "shoulder" of the impeller housing). 

 

Sure enough, after that, the disher filled, stopped, and commenced a righteous cleaning of the dirty dishes. No leaks. Solid after 1 week. 

 

Thoughts/conclusions: 

1. the water level is an issue, regardless of anything else

 

Questions: 

1. Re: the timing question and float as a fail-safe... is this a different model, or do I need to isolate and check a timer function?  
 

Thanks for all the help!

David



#15 dkmn

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 11:58 PM

Sorry, I misspoke on this one, (should have known a MDB model is the newer style), I didn't look it up and looking at the pictures I was thinking it was the old original Maytag.  This is the newer style with the detergent/rinse agent dispenser all as one and I've never seen a problem with that style, (you should still check to make sure all the mounting screws are tight and no signs of leakage anywhere around the dispenser).

 

Update here as well: Checked during the latch replacement, no leaks, double-checked fastener tightness when reassembling... thanks for the tip!







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