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kenmore gas drye not heating to temp with load


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10 replies to this topic

#1 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 26 December 2013 - 10:48 PM

good evening all i am having this same issue with quite a few dryers that have the bottom panel that comes off of the front of the dryer.  but more specifically  the one im working on  kenmore 11076912693.  i have a new hi temp tstat, cycling tstat, new pully,  and new fsp motor in the dryer but dosent seem to be drying properly.  flames out at about 130.  it does get to 150 towards the end of the cycle when the cloths are already almost dry.  or with completely dry clothes.  i also changed all the wheather striping on the blower housing twice.  i get an ok air flow from the rear vent but dosent seem  as strong as some of my other dryers. drum does seem to be a lil slower also but cant be sure. i only seem to have this problem with these dryers with front panel.  this is the thorn in my side .  any help or any thing i am missing would be greatly appreciated.  



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#2 vee8power

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 08:23 AM

I always suspect the gas coils on dryers with this issue. Heres how I prove them bad on those dryers:

With the dryer unplugged, use alligator clip leads to connect your meter to both ENDS of the cycling thermostat with the wires still attached. Do it carefully so the clips don't shift and ground themselves. Set your meter on AC volts, plug the dryer in, and add a light load. Start the dryer on high heat.

In normal operation, your meter will read near zero volts when the dryer is heating since there's no voltage drop across a closed switch. When the flame goes out, the meter will read about 120 volts because the switch opens.

If not, something else in the circuit is opening, dousing the flame. The two things I suspect would be the gas coils and the high limit t-stat.

If I don't get  voltage at the cycling t-stat when the flame goes out, I'll change out the gas coils and check it again. Usually it will then operate normally unless there is an air flow issue that I am missing or a weak high limit.

I have even gone so far is to strip some insulation off the wires leading to the high limit to put my volt meter on. If voltage appears there, I'll disconnect the vent and try again.

This all assumes there's no lint clog in the blower housing.



#3 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 08:43 AM

Thanks for reply. I will definitely check what u have suggested when I get home from work. But is their something I am missing as far as air flow? I feel ok preasure coming out but have felt stronger on other dryers. These dryers with bottom panel seem to me to have a unique problem. And blower is clear. Have removed motor already and in the process I did check vent going to back of dryer and all is clear. When I did reinsulated the front of dryer I did feel a slight difference in air flow and flame did seem to shoot back a lil stronger. But I am getting some small lagging flame if you will, by the ignitor. Behind the two flat wings from the ignitor. And other side. Not to sure if that has anything to do with issue. Thanks again for response.

#4 -Mike-

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 01:44 PM

These are bad at getting lint plastered in place at the bottom of the lint screen plenium. Did you pull that off and check it out?



#5 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 02:20 PM

Yes removed lint trap housings and cleaned it out completly. Thanks for reply. Hope .uk can solve this once and for all.

#6 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 03:50 PM

One other question. Is it possible for the coils to close to early but still give correct reading? Because I have checked the coils just as flame goes out and they r giving me good reading.. I belive this is why vee8power was asking me to check voltage on cycling stat. All the bad coils I have replaced ( only a year and a half ) never came across one as of yet that were bad but still giving correct reading. Will try all suggestions tonight into Tommorow.

#7 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 09:02 PM

Ok got home and tried what vee8power suggested. Turn on dryer meter reads .024 till flame comes on then drops to .016. Flame goes out no change in reading. Put brand new fsp coils in same result. Never gets to 120v. Their is a new fsp tsat installed also so am really stumped!!

#8 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 09:39 PM

Ok update. Did last suggestion of vee8power and removed vent from rear. Drying like it should. ReAching 118.2v. I know what ur gonna think that my vent line is clogged. I thought he same. Took it off and cleaned out but nothing major. Its only a 4ft run to out side. Reconnected and sure enough the .016 reading when the flame went out. What am I missing???

#9 -Mike-

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 11:35 PM

Were you testing the cycling thermostat on the blower/exhaust? If you were, that thermostat did not cycle the burner off. The high limit on the burner might have done it. You can check that with the same method just connect the meter to that one. 

If you find the high limit  thermostat is cycling the burner, your burner is either running too hot, and there can be many reasons for that, or the high limit thermostat is weak or possibly someone else installed the wrong one in there.

The burner running too hot is almost always due to lack of air flow through the burner tube. Thats usually due to a restricted vent system but its also possible to have an internal air leak in the dryer. For example a  door seal might be missing, the lint screen plenium may not be sealing well to the blower housing, the  drum may have a big gap where it meets the front or rear bulkhead or  the burner tube may not be inserted properly in to the air duct.



#10 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 11:48 PM

Hi mike thanks for info. Im narrowing it down lil by lil I hope. My venting system is not clogged so that is eliminated. Like I the earlier post. I mentioned it worked fine when I took off rear vent. So it is in my opinion a definite air flow problem. When I stated earlier that I re insulated all the blower housing I kinda mis spoke. The panel that covers the blower wheel with two screws had a fairly thick insulation still attached and not broken so I left that on. But maybe that is so worn after 12 yeArs or so that the air is passing thru? That is the only spot I hadn't replaced. Am gonna go get a thicker insullation strip tommorow. Any idea how thick it should be or required? Thanks again for all urs and everyone's help. Am trying to learn as best I can wit minimal training.

#11 WMFISHINGFOOL

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 01:14 PM

update.  as i stated in previous post i would replace insullation on small round panel that covers blower wheel with two screws. this seems to be the problem.  i first tested with small load with meter on cycling tstat (as vee8power suggested) and when flame went out i did get 118.2v on meter and verifed vent temp with thermomerter.  and just tried it with a large load and the temp is holding till it reaches apporx 155 on rear vent temp.  this seems to be the problem.  thanks to everyone who took the time to help with suggestions.  very much appreciated!!  everyone have a great new years!!






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