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Fisher & Paykel GWL10U2 Top Load Washing Machine-Requires Manual "Advance+Start" to get through full Wash Cycle

Fisher & Paykel GWL10U2 Diagnostic Code

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7 replies to this topic

#1 traylors98

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Posted 29 December 2013 - 04:01 PM

Hi - 

 

I have my mother's Fisher & Paykel GWL10U2 top-load washing machine in my house. No one has the User's Guide anymore, so I've been searching all over to try to fix two issues with the machine. We have it installed in our basement and it's mostly level (that is, when I put my level on top of the washing machine, only a teeny bit of the air bubble is outside the "level" markers). Right now, it is draining directly from the machine into our slop sink (no additional pump) and seems to be doing just fine with the slight incline. 

 

I'm seeing two problems:

 

1. Only getting scalding hot water for any wash: I am in the process of checking for kinks in the hot & cold water hoses, checking for obstructions within the hoses, detaching the hoses from the washer and checking the water temp as it comes straight from the pipes (into a bucket), and finally, checking the screen strainer on the washer side. I've read that if all that is working fine, then I most likely have an "inlet valve issue". Does that sound right? Any other troubleshooting steps here?

 

2. For all wash cycle types (e.g., Delicates, Regular, Heavy Duty), my washer stops & then beeps (several times) in between the Long Wash and Rinse phases. If I manually click "Advance" then "Start", the machine will forcibly go through the phases of the cycle. Obviously, I would like my washing machine to go through all the phases without me having to run downstairs every few minutes to hit "Advance" and then "Start". 

 

I was able to get the machine into Diagnostic Mode, following instructions on another GWL10U2 forum post here. 

 

Here's what I did:

1. With machine OFF, held down WASH TEMPERATURE DOWN button and then POWER button

2. Heard two beeps

3. Used the SPIN SPEED buttons to ensure both Hold & Slow are lit up (not really sure why, though, again, just taking information from a previous post here)

4. Nothing happened... 

5. So I pressed "Start" and the furthest right button (for SPIN) was lit up in red. I think this corresponds to a value of "1", giving me diagnostic code results of "1". 

 

What does that mean? 

 

And did I do the diagnostic mode entry properly? 

 

Thanks so much!

Sarah



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#2 J5

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 05:08 AM

is this a recent install ?

 

have you got the hose fitted correctly to the correct valves

 

ie hot goes to hot and cold goes to cold ?



#3 traylors98

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 07:26 AM

Yeah, it was a recent install and I feel like a TOTAL moron, but apparently the hot hose was hooked up to the cold spout. Instant fix, no more musical tones in between cycles - both issues were fixed! Thanks for replying, though. 

 

Sarah



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 December 2013 - 10:34 AM

Thanks for letting us know!



#5 traylors98

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 08:30 PM

Okay - so we did 1-2 loads in the washer after changing the hot/cold arrangement and all was well. 

 

Now, we are getting through the wash cycle and as it goes to spin, we get the musical beeps. The load never gets fully rinsed, there are lots of suds and a fair amount of water on the clothes, etc. which make us have to use the dryer through 2-3 full cycles. 

 

When I put the washer into diagnostic mode, same as last time, I get the following sequence lit up:

 

First, fifth, seventh, and eighth light. 

 

Then, I pressed "Power" and instead of going out of diagnostic mode, the last three lights flashed. I've never seen that before. 

 

Any thoughts on the issue / solution? 

 

Thanks!

Sarah



#6 dtechryan

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 08:51 PM

I don't have the diagnostics in front of me - but a couple of things to check/think of.

 

 Are you filling it full to the top?  If you take half the cloths out, does it run?  You may be running an unbalanced load (too many cloths / too heavy)

 

Also - check your detergent.  The HE detergents don't need nearly as much as the old detergents.  A tablespoon or two is usually enough.  Also watch out for 2x HE - which is double strength and will suds even more!

 

These are generally good washers and will spin the cloths very dry!  If anything, you should notice your dryer working less hard!



#7 traylors98

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 08:57 PM

Hi dtechryan, 

 

Good questions, but sadly, we are not filling it up to the top with clothes. Even with one pair of jeans in there, it does the same thing. Likewise, the detergent is a constant and has never been a problem before. 

 

Thanks for responding, though!



#8 DADoESTX

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 10:17 AM

1st, 5th, 7th, 8th

128 + 8 + 2 + 1 = 139

139 is not a valid fault code.

 

GWL10 is not an HE machine, a normal amount of detergent should be used.  It runs the EcoActive wash process, then fills to a normal level for the agitated wash period.

 

Try running the Perm Press cycle on a load.  Perm Press does not run the EcoActive phase so does not make use of the diverter for recirculation ... it may finish OK if the diverter is involved in whatever is the problem.







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