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LG front load washer - drum won't turn by hand


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30 replies to this topic

#1 LG Washer User

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:02 PM

Hello,

So my lg wm2010cw washer stopped spinning recently. I ran diagnostic and none of thenspin modes will turn the drum. 0 revs. I tries turning by hand and it moves a tiny bit but stops then turns the same distance in the other direction before stopping. I did resistance testing on the motor and that seems fine...any ideas ?

Thanks in advance

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#2 MA tech.

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 12:21 AM

If you are unable to manually rotate drum than likely something caught. I have found nails and pencils etc. in wholes inside drum locking drum up. I have seen garments stuck between tanks.

Unless the bearing had been screaming for a while then I gotta bleve something is caught and locking up drum.



#3 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 06:40 AM

Agree with MA Tech. Something stuck between the tubs or the bearing is frozen. Did your washer scream in high spin before this happened? Would sound like a jet engine or a train in your laundry room.


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#4 LG Washer User

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 07:59 AM

No screaming or any indication that the bearings were going... Noticed one of the dampeners had gone and replaced it when I started diagnosing the spin issue not sure if that is relevant but wanted to disclose all.

Is the only way to check for something stuck to disassemble outer tub? Is there an easier way to check without removing the entire tub? Just wanted to check before i did all the work.

Thank you for feedback

#5 MA tech.

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:16 PM

Remove boot seal and see if that helps with a better view of between tubs. But before doing that carefully check every hole inside drum. May be a nail or underwire from a bra, a nail or something of the like. Get a real good look.



#6 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:56 PM

If you can look up at the tub assembly from underneath, it might be possible to shine a strong flash light in the spin basket and see a shadow as you run the light over the holes. This will work if your outer tub is a light color like white or yellow. More than likely, the object will be stuck at the lowest point, anyway, which is good for you.


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#7 john63

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 05:20 PM

Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons

 

Press the POWER button and release all three buttons.

 

Wait for the door to lock (single click sound)

 

What is the software version on the Display?

 

In81 / IU:00    or    In81 / IU:03

 

What is the Serial Number of the washer?


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 -Mike-

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 12:28 AM

The tub is transparent enough on these LG's that if you have a light under the tub you can see through all the holes from the inside to see where the stuck item is at. If you're lucky you'll be able to pull it through one of the holes in the outer tub. You have the drain hose, vent hose, dispenser hose and if you have the water heater on this model you can pull that out.

Whatever it is thats binding it up, it has to be small enough to fit through the gap between the front of the basket and the door bellow so it should be small enough to pull out through one of the holes. If you can find it, that is.



#9 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 01:38 AM

Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons

 

Press the POWER button and release all three buttons.

 

Wait for the door to lock (single click sound)

 

What is the software version on the Display?

 

In81 / IU:00    or    In81 / IU:03

 

What is the Serial Number of the washer?

 

Waiting to learn from this...


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#10 LG Washer User

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 07:06 PM

Hello Everyone,

 

thanks again for feedback - i started to take apart the washer to get a better look at the drum and eventually ended up removing the drum entirely. Once i removed the front portion of the outer drum i could clearly see a large wad of wet lint wedged in the back and from what i can tell is probably stuck around the shaft behind the inner drum.

 

I tried to separate the inner drum from the rear portion of the outer drum however and was not able to. I removed everything from the back (strator etc...) and only have the inner drum and rear outer drum but it wont budge. could it be that whatever is wedged in there is so tightly wound that it wont allow me to remove the inner drum ? or maybe i missed something else i need before separating the two ? is it safe to slightly bang the threaded portion of the shaft that stickes out past bearings to knock inner drum out ?

 

Thanks again for the help/



#11 john63

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 09:31 PM

<<<Waiting to learn from this...>>>

 

**********

 

Well---it goes like this...

 

LG Washer

 

Model: WM2010CW

 

Serial: Unknown

 

SYMPTOMS:

 

<<<So my lg wm2010cw washer stopped spinning recently>>>

<<<I ran diagnostic and none of thenspin modes will turn the drum. 0 revs.>>>

 

**********

 

Clothing or other debris in or between the stainless steel drum and the gasket (or outer tub)---is a very rare cause/fault in an LG front load washer.

 

If during the TEST MODE---the Display indicated/showed "0" during the Spin Test---this would usually indicate a failed Main Board.

 

**********

 

<<<I tries turning by hand and it moves a tiny bit but stops then turns the same distance in the other direction before stopping.>>>

 

**********

 

An interesting clue---which I'll explain later.

 

**********

 

<<<No screaming or any indication that the bearings were going...>>>

 

**********

 

Bearings appear fine

 

**********

 

<<<Noticed one of the dampeners had gone and replaced it>>>

 

**********

 

A major piece of information

 

The LG Washer WM2010CW with a Serial Number 906KWxxx (June 2009) and older---have a *software glitch*

 

This glitch will allow the washer to spin *violently*---to the point of causing one or more of the Damper/Struts to become separated (damaged).

 

Some customers will indicate that the tub was "difficult" to turn/rotate by hand---especially immediately after the washer had shutdown (door gasket twisted severely and the entire tub assy resting on the floor).

 

Hours later--the tub will be easier to move/turn manually (reduced magnetic tension).

 

The Serial Number (and software ID number helps to identify cause)

 

Old Software ID (In81 / IU:00)---has the flawed Main Board

 

New Software ID (In81 / IU:03)---is the *corrected* Main Board

 

The part numbers for the old and new Main Boards are the same.

 

When ordering a new Main Board (EBR43249701)---the *build date*  on the Main Board is critical to know/be aware of.

 

Should indicate that the M/B was manufactured on June 02, 2010 or newer.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 12:07 AM

Thank you.


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#13 Patricio

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 12:34 AM

Love this place, learn something new every day, something useful.  Good knowledge sharing folks here.  :thanks:  Patricio


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#14 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 03:42 AM

F0906024-00002.png

LG Washer User,

 

Did you get all of the parts off (that secure the basket) before trying to separate the basket from the tub.


Edited by Sunlight Appliance, 14 January 2014 - 03:46 AM.

STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#15 LG Washer User

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 10:58 AM

F0906024-00002.png

LG Washer User,

 

Did you get all of the parts off (that secure the basket) before trying to separate the basket from the tub.

 

i removed the bolt from the back and the cover in addition to strator assembly. In addition the entire drum has been removed from the machine and the front portion of the outer drum was removed. based on the diagram (aside from bearings around the shaft maybe ?) there should be nothing else inhibiting me from removing the inner drum. I believe possibly the same wad of lint that is preventing the turn is maybe caught around the shaft ? i dont know not alot of space between shaft and bearing but maybe ? i just didnt want to tap with a mallet in fear of damaging the bearings which appear fine.


<<<Waiting to learn from this...>>>

 

**********

 

Well---it goes like this...

 

LG Washer

 

Model: WM2010CW

 

Serial: Unknown

 

SYMPTOMS:

 

<<<So my lg wm2010cw washer stopped spinning recently>>>

<<<I ran diagnostic and none of thenspin modes will turn the drum. 0 revs.>>>

 

**********

 

Clothing or other debris in or between the stainless steel drum and the gasket (or outer tub)---is a very rare cause/fault in an LG front load washer.

 

If during the TEST MODE---the Display indicated/showed "0" during the Spin Test---this would usually indicate a failed Main Board.

 

**********

 

<<<I tries turning by hand and it moves a tiny bit but stops then turns the same distance in the other direction before stopping.>>>

 

**********

 

An interesting clue---which I'll explain later.

 

**********

 

<<<No screaming or any indication that the bearings were going...>>>

 

**********

 

Bearings appear fine

 

**********

 

<<<Noticed one of the dampeners had gone and replaced it>>>

 

**********

 

A major piece of information

 

The LG Washer WM2010CW with a Serial Number 906KWxxx (June 2009) and older---have a *software glitch*

 

This glitch will allow the washer to spin *violently*---to the point of causing one or more of the Damper/Struts to become separated (damaged).

 

Some customers will indicate that the tub was "difficult" to turn/rotate by hand---especially immediately after the washer had shutdown (door gasket twisted severely and the entire tub assy resting on the floor).

 

Hours later--the tub will be easier to move/turn manually (reduced magnetic tension).

 

The Serial Number (and software ID number helps to identify cause)

 

Old Software ID (In81 / IU:00)---has the flawed Main Board

 

New Software ID (In81 / IU:03)---is the *corrected* Main Board

 

The part numbers for the old and new Main Boards are the same.

 

When ordering a new Main Board (EBR43249701)---the *build date*  on the Main Board is critical to know/be aware of.

 

Should indicate that the M/B was manufactured on June 02, 2010 or newer.

 

thank you - i am traveling until thursday but will update you all with the version number once i get home.

 

Regards!



#16 Sunlight Appliance

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 02:44 AM

Can you take a picture of the back of the drum, showing the area you are planning to tap, please?


STOP building government and START building business. :miner:


#17 LG Washer User

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 04:06 PM

Can you take a picture of the back of the drum, showing the area you are planning to tap, please?

   Inner-Tub-3045ER1006E--01187158.jpg

 

The above image is not mine because i dont have access to my parts right now. if you were to imagine the rear outer drum in this picture then the portion of the shaft at the bottom that is sticking out is what im asking about. would like to tap with a soft mallet to see if i can separate the inner from the rear outer drum.



#18 LG Washer User

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 01:04 PM

all here is an actua35luq3a.jpgl picture

 

would like to tap the shaft that extends beyond the outer drum to try and separate - stuck in there tight


2w39xk5.jpg

 

also to answer the previous question it appears i have version .03 of software so im ok and updated it would seem



#19 suampman

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 01:32 PM

If you have the outer tub split and it looks like you do, put a piece of 2x4 or 4x4 on the shaft and use a large hammer/ small sledge hammer/large dead blow hammer and give it a wack. You just want to protect the spline. If by chance you do nick or damage the spline, small files will help you clean them up. But as always use finesse.

Also make sure you have the outer tub proppped up so the inner can release when you wack it. Good luck.


Edited by suampman, 17 January 2014 - 01:54 PM.


#20 LG Washer User

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 02:01 PM

Thanks,

 

yes it is split. tried with a 2x4 on the shaft and multiple solid wacks still not even a budge as far as i can tell. ive increased force but this is really stuck.. any additional ideas ? im afraid to use too much force but the drum seems like it should atleast be budging. thanks again in advance for the help.

 

Regards,






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