Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

The days of Monkey Boy Service Calls are over...

Click here to check out our fun short course and learn how to get the most out of Appliantology.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
batfried

Kitchenaid Refrigerator

27 posts in this topic

Hello Samurai

You helped me pick out the correct start device kit which worked perfectly. Model # KSRG22FKWH04. My problem now is the freezer freezes somewhat while the food side is not cool enough. The compressor fan is working. The fan by the coils is working.Some frost on the coils. I did feel the heating element work.Not alot of cold air blowing over to the refrigerated side. The ice maker on off switch blinks twice over and over.It has done that for quiet awhile though. I'm thinking it may be the electronic control but what do I know? Help   Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Can you please post pictures of the frost on the coils?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

trying to post

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't figure out how to post my pics

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like the frost pattern is full. You said you are getting very little airflow to the fresh food side correct? With the panel back on, feel the air coming in the fresh side, and open the freezer door to see if it feels like you get more air when it's opened. There is a return vent on the left wall above the crisper drawers that has been known to freeze up, which causes low to no airflow in the fresh food. I would also peel back the edge of the each door seal with the doors closed to make sure all the lights are turning off when the doors are closed. A screwdriver or something flat will make it easier to pull the gasket back when you check the light.

Edited by BryanS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked with the panel on with the same low air movement with door opened and closed.Put my camera in the freezer and recorded that the light went out. When I replaced the compressor starter the fridge was defrosted with the same low air movement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If i was there, your description of the symptoms would be fine but from afar I need more than "the freezer freezes somewhat while... etc" So, can you give us temp readings?

What are the fridge and freezer control settings? If your freezer is at the proper temp, then I would suspect incorrect damper (freezer) setting. If the heater is warm while the fans are running, or the heater runs too much, I would suspect ADC board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Settings are set at 5 in the middle. Freezer is -9 fridge is 40.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Put my camera in the freezer and recorded that the light went out.

 

Smart.

 

 

If the heater is warm while the fans are running, or the heater runs too much, I would suspect ADC board.

 

Thank you for this nugget.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do I check the lower vent in the fridge? How do I check the upper damper?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But before you go changing parts,  with the Evaporator fan running see if there is any air coming out of that dampener (when working properly air is suppose to be coming out when the fan is running).  A small mirror is also helpful to see if it is frosted over.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The lower vent is a return vent where the air circulates. Usually if it is frozen up you will see ice built up in the vent. The vent cover can be pulled off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

freezer is -9 and you said it "freezes somewhat"? That doesn't add up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some air is coming out of the dampener.I looked at it and it seemed fine.A rod adjusts the opening by sliding the freezer slider. No blockage.  There are two sliding controls in the refer.RepairClinic Item # 1175562.  One for each side of coarse. Could this be the problem? I also see the defrost circuit board located somewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes it is minus 9 but it has also been alot warmer  possibly just after the coils defrosting?The ice cream went soft. It has been freezing all day today

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does someone have the schematics for a Kichenaid KSRG22FKWH04? I'm thinking maybe this is the problem because of this video having had to replace a starter relay allready.http://youtu.be/Toy-T7wLEuM ?     I apologise is this does not make sense because of the meds I'm taking

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you checked the return vent right above the crisper drawer? If it has ice buildup, warm fridge air can't get to the freezer to be re-chilled AND new cold air from the freezer won't be able to enter the fridge through the damper at the top.

 

You could do the 2 checks in the video that the Samurai demonstrated, but, I would make sure your damper is open AND your return vent above the crisper drawer is clear before following the video.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is starting to sound like an intermittent start relay. I have seen them work intermittently, believe it or not, and cause this problem.

 

Definately though, check your return vent above the crisper drawer before getting into this other stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I can see the return vent looks clear.Where is the other end of the vent go? The start relay is new. As of today the freezer is -10 and the refer is at 34.So everythings good for now.What got me thinking about the defrost board is that it can burn out the start relay. Might be worth it just to avoid the possibility of burning out of the new relay.Could I check for 12v coming off the board on this model Kitchenaid? KSRG22fkwh04   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I can see the return vent looks clear.Where is the other end of the vent go? 

 

Someone else needs to answer this.

 

 

The start relay is new. 

 

When you replaced it, were the terminals on the compressor corroded or covered in burnt plastic or, otherwise, prevented from making good contact with the new relay?

 

 

As of today the freezer is -10 and the refer is at 34.So everythings good for now.

 

Perfect

 

 

What got me thinking about the defrost board is that it can burn out the start relay. Might be worth it just to avoid the possibility of burning out of the new relay.

 

Not sure. Durham!

 

 

Could I check for 12v coming off the board on this model Kitchenaid? KSRG22fkwh04   

 

120v. Yes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The adc board will not burn out a relay.   intermittent relay is a possibility  :

 

If the evap fan is running but no cooling,  I would look to the compressor/relay

 

If nothing is runs when the temps spike,  I would look at the cold control and ADC board. Both are problematic in this model

 

If your heater was in fact running while cooling... definitely the ADC board 

 

but with current temps of -10 and 34 WITH CONTROLS SET TO THE MIDDLE LOCATION, sounds like an intermittent cold control.  If the temps continue to drop,  definitely a cold control problem. 

Edited by DurhamAppliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites