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Bosch shx4ap06uc dishwasher starts, runs for 5 min, then says clean


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28 replies to this topic

#21 DanInKansas

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 06:22 PM

Bosch makes pretty tough drain pumps.  I've replaced one in my whole time and I probably didn't need to do that one.  Put a good amount of water in the dishwasher, get a pail, disconnect your drain hose from the disposal, and hit cancel-drain.  If you have a good a solid stream of water, the pump is fine.  If you have a pulsing flow or a trickle, you might have a drain pump issue, or more probably a blocked hose.  

 

The heater and the wash pump are integrated together.  This is a tough replacement. You have to completely dismount the dishwasher, put it on its back, take the bottom off and get to the main motor that way.  There is a LOT of stuff you can break doing this. Because I do those so rarely, I budget 3 hours for this job.  (Waiting for Samurai and Durham to blow raspberries at me for taking so long.)



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#22 SANTA

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 01:04 AM

This model Bosch dishwasher is different. The ones I've worked on have no bottom and a different design drain pump.



#23 jephil0

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 08:21 PM

Finally had time to work on this again.  I installed a blue old work box and extended the power cord by about 6 feet.  For grins, I tried running it while it was pulled out of the cabinet.  I ran it the first time without the baskets and it worked.  Seemed very "splashy" and the roof of the tub was wet.  So, water went into it and was sprayed.  Running it now with dishes.  Sounds like it's working, but I will know for sure in a few minutes.

 

Thanks for your help so far!

 

Jonathan

 

EDIT: Finished the cycle.  My wife uses Cascade Action Pacs Sachets...little pouch things, basically, instead of liquid detergent.  The pouch was hung in the top rack and not dissolved (i.e. not wet), although the lower dishes were wet.  I started the cycle again and interrupted it a couple of times.  It appears that the bottom spray arm is spraying, but not the top sprayer.  

 

Current error code indicates no error.

 

Now we're getting somewhere?  What would cause the top not to spray, and how do I fix it?


Edited by jephil0, 20 February 2014 - 08:43 PM.


#24 DanInKansas

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 12:26 AM

Some of the higher end dishwashers have a diverter valve that shifts water between the washarms. 

 

But by far the most common reason the top arm doesn't spray is an insufficient water charge. Here in the hard-water heartland, a Bosch d/w inlet valve will last,at most, 5 to 7 years.  After that point, it's too calcified to let in a proper charge. 



#25 Spannerwrench

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 05:59 AM

Yes.
"Suds are not good"
"They write directions for a reason"
"Make sure you're using it right before you say it's not working correctly"
"If if has a Diagnostic Test Cycle, Run it before and after you fix it!"
"Doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results is insane"
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong."

#26 jephil0

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 07:33 AM

So, in theory then, if I fill the tub manually and it works, I should feel fairly confident that that is the problem?  (If so, great.  I have replaced one of those before on my old dishwasher, so I know how to do it).

 

I feel like I've been all over the place with this thing--multiple error codes, sometimes a "No Error" code... I guess at the very least I can take comfort in the fact that the cord is as long as it is supposed to be now.  Frustrating that the "symptoms" keep changing!

 

Thanks again for your help!

 

Jonathan



#27 jephil0

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 01:03 PM

I ordered the water inlet valve since that seems to be what the dishwasher's current behavior indicates.  I anticipate I will be replacing either the drain pump or the circulating pump as well; however, I am also in the "hard water heartland," and the dishwasher is about the right age, so I figure replacing the inlet valve is worth a shot.

 

Part should be here on Wednesday.  I will let you all know what happens.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jonathan



#28 Scottthewolf

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 10:04 PM

I found this service bulletin:

 

E:25 error code caused by loose drain pump covers

 

If an Ascenta dishwasher does not drain properly and  / or shows an E:25 error code, the problem could be the drain pump cover was not replaced properly  (i.e. not completely seated and locked into position.) 

 

Loose drain pump covers allow more water flow to the drain pump, increasing pump load, drawing more current and causing an  E:25 error code. 

 

The  Clean light can come on, giving the impression the dishwasher finished it's cycle when it actually did not.

 

Occasionally E:23 and E:24 error codes can occur as well.

 

Repair Procedure:

 

Remove the pump cover, making sure cover solidly locks into place.

 

Sorry, repairclinic did not have a picture of the said cover, so here it is.

 

http://www.apdepot.c...eyword=00611322


Edited by Scottthewolf, 27 February 2014 - 10:37 PM.

Scott Wolf

#29 jephil0

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:49 PM

I got my part in and the water situation is solved.  

 

Now it's back to running for a short time and saying Clean.  It's giving a drain pump error again.  The washer is now full of water when it does this.

 

When I checked it before, I checked the lines, but did not check the pump for obstruction--I did that this time and found a piece of plastic wrapped around the impeller.  I have no idea what that's from, but I assume that it somehow got in with the dishes (I repeated my, "the dishwasher is not a garbage disposal" lecture).  It was a long strip of plastic--cellophane, like you might find on frozen dinner type thing, so I don't think it came from the dishwasher (I am fairly certain it would be fair to say it was my wife's fault).

 

So, I will make sure the drain pump cover is well seated and then replace the drain pump and/or the circulating pump.  

 

Thank you all again for your help!

 

Jonathan






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