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kenmore refrigerator 795.71063.010


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20 replies to this topic

#1 curjones

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 09:47 PM

The Icemaker quit filling after a power outage.  I got the manual thanks to brother Durham.  I've studied it the best I know how.  I am trying to get back with the customer to go do some of the simple test first.  I have some questions about this unit.  It's not a simple Icemaker by no means, at least to me.  I read about several componets but dont see them on the print or diagram.

 

1. Ice compartment fan.  Says it's in the ice compartment, and I am assuming it's in the compartment where the ice maker is.

I'm trying to figure out how that compartment gets freezer air up to it so it can be at 1 degrees.  Not sure on the logic function?

If the compartment is not 1 degree would that stop the fill of the maker.

 

2. They mention a heater in the fill tube for the Icemaker and I don't see it on parts break down.  I have not had the chance to remove the Icemaker so I'm not sure how the fill tube is connected to the maker.  Dont see it on the pictures.

 

3.  Ice maker kit sensor error, saw the test procedure, see what appears to be a sensor.  Is that sensor on a board, or is it on or in the Icemaker.

 

4.  Icing room sensor,  are they calling the sealed compartment where the Icemaker is held the Icing room, and again saw it nowhere on a parts list.   Location again.

 

5.  They call a fan a BLDC fan, and that fan can cause trouble.  Page 20  BLDC fan for Ice making.

 

Still studying up any answers greatly appreciated.

 



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#2 BryanS

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:07 PM

Don't dig to far into these LG icemaker issues. 9 times out of 10 it is just a bad icemaker. First thing I always do is hit the cycle button. Some are underneath on the head and others you just hold the round button on the icemaker below the cube selector. If it doesn't cycle, I always tried a new ice maker, and it was always the problem. I'm not saying it can't be anything else, but all the sensors are in
the icemaker as well. Obviously, if it doesn't cycle check that the water valve is energizing and water flows.

1. Ice room fan is in the freezer compartment behind the panel on the left.

2. I believe the fill tube heater is part of the door.

3. In the icemaker.

4. Right above the ice maker.

5. Ice room fan is in the freezer compartment behind the panel on the left side. Just close the door switch with the door open and feel the vents for air in the fresh food section on the left wall by the door. One is a return and the other is a supply.

Edited by BryanS, 15 January 2014 - 10:11 PM.


#3 BryanS

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:15 PM

I just looked at the diagram and this one has the small square test button underneath. Just hold it until it cycles. It should start with 5-10 secs or less. I've changed a crapload of those icemakers. My recommendation would be to take one out with you if you can.

Edited by BryanS, 15 January 2014 - 11:13 PM.


#4 john63

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:27 PM

BLDC (Brushless DC) Fan Motor

 

What is the Serial Number?

 

If the refrigerator was built in 2010 through Novenmber 2013---the GrilleFan Assy will need to be replaced.

 

Usually the customer will complain that the ICEMAKER has stopped functioning and/or that there's an "ER/IF" error displayed on the freezer door panel.

 

Additionally---some will describe a "drilling" sound---that comes and goes  (frost/ice accumulation at & around the ICE ROOM FAN MOTOR blades).

 

Depending on the Serial Number---the GrilleFan Assy upgrade is a *free* repair---but must be done by an Authorized Service Center


Edited by john63, 15 January 2014 - 10:30 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 curjones

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:49 PM

If the refrigerator was built in 2010 through Novenmber 2013---the GrilleFan Assy will need to be replaced John is this the Ice compatrment fan (ref #1 and 5) in my comments, which BryanS says is in the freezer compartment.  On my diagram I see part number 407 A.  The parts company refers to it as a motor bracket assembly, not sure if that means it's a motor and a bracket or just a bracket.  That one looks like it has a grille shape.

 

I have looked at that diagram and still trying to figure out how the cold air gets there from the picture, ducts in the door that mate up when closed.  gasket assemb door, looks like they may be the seals.  Still looking it over .  Thanks for your responses..

 

If that fan has failed, and temps are not a 1 degree will it stop the icemaker from filling.  I will test the cycle and then the fill option.  I had the solonoid on my list to check.   Anybody got an extra 10,000.00 so I can get a good start on parts.  LOL



#6 applianceman97

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:59 PM

ALL ice makers will not fill if the freezer is not at normal operating temp.

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#7 BryanS

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:17 PM

Yea. 407A is the ice room fan motor. The ducts are built into the wall. That fan blows air through from the freezer. I feel ya on having the money for a good truck stock.

Edited by BryanS, 15 January 2014 - 11:19 PM.


#8 john63

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:24 PM

The ICE ROOM is the Icemaker Compartment located on the left-side *refrigerator door*

 

The Ice Room has a "dedicated" Fan Motor in the freezer (on the left side of the GrilleFan Cover/Assy) to provide *cold* air from the freezer-to-the-refrigerator-door.

 

If the Serial Number indicates that refrigerator has been built between 2010 through November 2013---the entire back panel (in the freezer compartment) must be replaced (this is called a GrilleFan Assy).

 

The GrilleFan Assy has a new Ice Room Fan Motor on it---and a mullion-type Heater wrapped around the Ice Room Fan Motor (to prevent frost/ice accumulation). If frost/ice accumulates at/around the IR Fan Motor---this stops the fan from "running".

 

If the IR fan stops "running"---the icemaker ceases to function (ICE ROOM too warm)

 

Here's how to determine Build Date...

 

Serial Number examples...

 

011Kxxx  (2010/November)

 

109Kxxx  (2011/September)

 

206Kxxx  (2012/June)

 

310Kxxx  (2013/October)


Edited by john63, 16 January 2014 - 12:45 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 applianceman97

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:44 PM

Just so I know for the future. Why do they have you change the whole back wall john? What change did they make???

Kicks major Samsung booty first, asks diagnostic questions later.

http://www.justintimeappliance.com
 


#10 curjones

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:58 AM

Can the owners get some discount on the parts from the manufacture,, sounds like an boo boo on their part.



#11 john63

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 02:04 AM

If the Serial Number is within the build date 2010 through November 2013...

 

The entire repair is 100% free.

 

Must be done/performed by an Authorized Service Center---in this case A & E (Sears).


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 curjones

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 02:11 AM

I see the diagram part number as 332c and it list AEB72913909 as the old part, what is the new number for the Grille fan assembly, any good sources ?



#13 applianceman97

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 10:57 AM

If you have the incorrect freezer wall in that model. Just have them call sears. I know it's hard to give away a call but it's the right thing to do for your customer if sears will do it for free for them. This info is great though because not all of them will be changed through LG for free. Then the next one you get you will be able to get it fixed correctly.

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#14 BryanS

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 11:18 AM

Just so I know for the future. Why do they have you change the whole back wall john? What change did they make???


From what we were told it was a design change to improve the airflow problem causing the fan to ice up. Originally they had you change the main board and the grille assy. I was told the new board was supposed to increase the fan speed.
In all honesty, I don't think the grille is his issue. Who knows without being there, but he said it quit filling after a power outage.

Edited by BryanS, 16 January 2014 - 11:16 AM.


#15 john63

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 11:30 AM

<<<Originally they had you change the main board and the grille assy. I was told the new board was supposed to increase the fan speed.>>>

 

**********

 

Correct.

 

This "fix"---failed to fix the problem.

 

The latest solution is to abandon/stop replacing the Main Board (increased fan speed---when the freezer is at "set" temperature)

 

Now---the new GrilleFan has an internal Heater at the Ice Room Fan Motor Housing.

 

If there's still a moisture/frost accumulation on the new GrilleFan---it won't interfere with the fan operation.

 

It would "appear" that---LG engineers have given up trying to find a remedy for the odd problem of frost accumulation---and instead---decided to ensure IR fan function.

 

 


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#16 curjones

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:14 PM

sn 004kr00386.   Do you have a good part number for the new grille motor.  I am going to let the customer know about sears and free replacement.  I'm having trouble getting them to call me back.



#17 curjones

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:19 PM

APR 2010 correct should be covered



#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:24 PM

Don't dig to far into these LG icemaker issues. 9 times out of 10 it is just a bad icemaker.

 

 

Wisdom!  Let us attend!  http://www.repaircli...3110203/2657857

 

Comes with a 365-day, no-hassle Return Policy:  http://www.repaircli...r/Return-Policy


#19 john63

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:44 PM

Even if the *icemaker* is faulty---check the Model & Serial numbers of the refrigerator---to verify if a GrilleFan is needed as well.

 

Otherwise---servicers (like Patricio) will "get burned" later---and their original diagnostics will come into question.

 

Customers will be doubting whether or not the icemaker was truly failed/defective (originally).

 

All original GrilleFan Assys...

 

AEB3725601

AEB3725602

AEB73785601

AEB73785603

AEB73785605

 

Have been replaced with...

 

---> AEB73785610 <---


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#20 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 10:54 PM

Even if the *icemaker* is faulty---check the Model & Serial numbers of the refrigerator---to verify if a GrilleFan is needed as well.

 

Otherwise---servicers (like Patricio) will "get burned" later---and their original diagnostics will come into question.

 

Customers will be doubting whether or not the icemaker was truly failed/defective (originally).

 

 

This is a great point-- prevent the dreaded Technician Witch Hunt!  






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