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jan_gora

GE Profile Refrigerator model # PTS25LHS/PTS25 SHS

13 posts in this topic

 

Hi. Thank you for taking the time to read this question. I appreciate your time.

 

Recently my refrigerator and freezer stopped working. I took everything out, unplugged it from electricity for 24 hours. Next I cleaned it, removed the back cover from the fridge, and vacuumed the inside. I then proceeded to reconnect the fridge to the electricity. Now it cools again, but poorly. The temperature continually changes. Sometimes the freezer temperature is 14 degrees Farenheit, and the fridge 48. Sometimes 25 and 46. Sometimes 27 and 53. It keeps changing. How can I fix my fridge?

 

The fridge is a GE Profile refrigerator with model # PTS25LHS/PTS25 SHS.

 

I appreciate any and all help. Thank you!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

First thing first, you must provide your complete model number from inside the fridge, not from paperwork or advertisement sticker.

Also, is there frost on the back wall inside the freezer? Is the fan in the freezer working?

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The fridge is a GE Profile Refrigerator.

 

Model #'s written on the inside of the fridge are:

PTS25LHS/

PTS25SHS

 

and

PTS22LHS/

PTS22SHS

 

I'm assuming that these numbers are for both the fridge and freezer.

 

Thanks for the help.

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I just checked for the fan. There is a fan at the bottom back of the fridge that works. However, I don't know if there is a separate fan for just the freezer.

 

Also, there is very slight frost is the back of the freezer.

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These numbers must be from a sticker on the door.. this is an advertisement sticker ( pts22 means this is a 22 cu ft fridge. and pts25 means it is a 25 cu ft fridge... your fridge cannot be both, at least not in the known universe).

There is a model number sticker on the inside wall of the fresh food section. You know you have the correct sticker if you also see a serial number. Your model number should look something like PTS25LHSARBB

You should hear a fan running inside the freezer. This fan should be running when you hear the fan in the back running. If not you may have an evap fan and main board failure. If you are lucky, your fan may only be obstructed by frost buildup. Then your problem may simply be a defrost failure.

Edited by DurhamAppliance
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Hi. The model # is PTS25SHSARSS.

 

Also, I think that the fan is running. I put my head against the back of the freezer and hear something clicking. Also, when I put my ear inside the freezer I hear a faint noise.

 

Once again thank you for helping.

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Okay, now you are going to have to remove the back panel in the freezer and check your evaporator coils. Are they covered with a heavy frost?

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Hi. I tried taking out the back panel. I opened the freezer and unscrewed the screws in the back and then tried taking out the panel. However, the panel is being blocked by the light at the top of the freezer. There doesn't seem to be any screws or obvious way of taking it out.

 

How can I get to the coils without damaging anything in the freezer? Thanks.

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Hi. I finally got to the back coils. By the time I got there, the fridge already defrosted. I don't think that the coils were frozen. There's no water under the coils (which I'm assuming there would be if the coils were frozen). 

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However, the sponge which separates the back panel from the freezer is wet.

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ok.. do you still hear clicking? If so, what are the temps in the freezer and fridge now? Is the fan in the freezer running? Is the condenser fan running (located in back of fridge near compressor)?

Is the compressor warm and vibrating?

Is the clicking coming from the mainboard (behind a small door on the back of the fridge) ?

These questions involve items that could cause clicking... evap fan, compressor, condenser fan and mainboard. The only other items that could cause clicking is a damper motor and the ice maker. The damper motor would not affect freezer temps. The ice maker heater can affect temps but you indicated the sound was faint when inside the freezer. Try to localize the sound as best you can

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The fan in the freezer doesn't work. Do you know how can I fix this?

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See if you're getting 13.4-ish VDC to the evap fan motor back at the Muthaboard, J2 connector.  If you are, than just replace the fan motor:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Evaporator-Fan-Motor/WR60X10228/1266145

 

Comes with a 365-day, no-hassle Return Policy:  http://www.repairclinic.com/Layer/Return-Policy
 
 
If the Mobo voltage to the evap fan is lower than this, then replace BOTH the Mobo and the evap fan.  Here's the link to the Muthaboard:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075
 
Also come with a 365-day, no-hassle Return Policy:  http://www.repairclinic.com/Layer/Return-Policy

 

Some resources for check the fan voltage at the Mobo:  

 

 

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