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Timboroni

GE Profile Fridge Not Working - PTS25SHRARBS

13 posts in this topic

I have a GE Profile refrigerator model PTS25SHRARBS that is not cooling either the fridge or freezer. I took the back cover off and cleaned the condenser fins of a lot of dust but that didn't help. The fan on the condenser is running, as is the fan in the freezer. The compressor does not even attempt to go on. Could it be the start relay?

 

Thanks for your help!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Mostl likely a bad Muthaboard.  Check for 120vac out of J8 (see pic below).  If da nada, compadre, replace the Mobo:  http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075

 

Comes with a 365-day, no-hassle Return Policy:  http://www.repairclinic.com/Layer/Return-Policy
 
 
gallery_4_4_340323.jpg

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How come, oh Great One, it is ALWAYS the $180 part and never the $7 part? :smile:

 

I will check it out and see what the voltage is.

 

Thanks!

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Well, I ordered the part and am waiting for it to arrive. I got my voltage meter and went and checked out the J8 jumper (connected to J11, I presume) and I'm getting 122V. I'm guessing that means it's not the motherboard. Or did I test it incorrectly?

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If you found 122 volts between  J8 and J11 when the compressor SHOULD be running  that would mean between J8 and J11 is the open part of the circuit. Replacing the board should fix the problem.

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Great. The snow here in the Northeast is delaying the arrival of the new board. Once I get it and install it I'll let you know how I make out.

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If you found 122 volts between  J8 and J11 when the compressor SHOULD be running  that would mean between J8 and J11 is the open part of the circuit. Replacing the board should fix the problem.

 

 

Probably a typo but... if there's ~120VAC between J8 and J11, it means the open is on the board (as you said) and therefore the compressor SHOULD NOT be running  because it's not getting power from the board.  The conclusion is the same: Replacing the board will fix the problem.  

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You guys are confusing me... too many "negative-nots" for my brain this morning sans coffee.

Official mainboard test for compressor not running:

when fans are running (Ge says to check to see if freezer thermistor is within range but fan motor running indicates thermistor isn't the problem) check for 120vac from connector 7 pin 9 (orange wire) to Pin 8 (black wire) If voltage not present, replace board. If voltage present test compressor directly.

Unofficial mainboard test:

Jump pin 11 to pin 8 (keep connector plugged in), if compressor runs, replace board. If not, check compressor/relay etc

Basically what you are testing is to see if the relay is connecting the hot line (pin 11) to the compressor (pin 8) to turn on the compressor (there is a neutral line at the compressor to give it 120vac)

If the relay is working fine and the hot line from pin 11 is being sent to the compressor through pin 8, to verify this all we have to do is check pin 8 with a neutral line at the board and we should get 120vac, right?

And surprise surprise, we have a neutral pin at connector 7 pin 9. Then when we put our meter on this neutral and what should be a hot line at pin 8 and we get 120vac we know all is well with the relay. If not, that means the pin 8 aint hot and the relay/board aint connecting the line (pin 11) to the compressor (pin 8).... time to buy a new board.

Using a jumper from line (pin 11) to compressor (pin 8) is simply bypassing the relay so if the compressor starts, that means there is nothing wrong with the compressor thus, by default, your board is bad.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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This is correct.  

 

J7-9 (orange wire) is AC neutral to the muthaboard.  J11 is AC line to the muthaboard.  

 

J8 is AC line OUT of the muthaboard to the compressor-- but it is a switched output, meaning a relay on the muthaboard has to make that connection between J8 and J11.  

 

So you should ALWAYS measure 120vac between J11 and J7-9, that's just line and neutral to the muthaboard. 

 

When the compressor relay (on the muthaboard) is closed, you would NOT measure 120vac between J8 and J11 because that switch (relay contacts) on the muthaboard is closed.  But you would, however, measure 120vac between J8 and J7-9 when the muthaboard compressor relay is closed.  

 

Pop Quiz:  What's the voltage drop across a closed switch?

 

When the compressor relay on the muthaboard is open, would WOULD measure 120vac between J8 and J11.  

 

Another Pop Quiz:  What's the voltage across an open switch?

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oops.... I, was eating my captain crunch and did not finish editing the second part of the post until after your last post. So sorry for creating the appearance of redundancy , but Captain Crunch waits for no man!

ps your pop quiz... you would get 120vac. For me, a non-electrical type dude, it is easier to remember no voltage means bad board as oppose to if you find voltage then bad board. The latter is counterintuitive and you must commit it to memory unless you understand how the board works and understand the principle of voltage across an open switch.

So my instructions were mainly for us non-electrical type dudes and not for you electronics wizards. This is not to say we should not all aspire to be electronics wizards (goodness knows I'm trying like hell ) but It is still fresh in my mind the memory of the "120v and the board is bad" concept confusing and perplexing me for a long long time.

I use to hear "and since there is 120 at pin 11 and pin 8 then you know the compressor isn't working, right?" Then I would go "uh". Then your pop quiz would come up... "well you know if the relay is open you'd get 120" Then I'd say.. "yeah" all the while thinking "what relay is he talking about... i don't see no relay at that connector, if i did, what is it suppose to do? just play along until you go home and resume your studies."

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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What I think really got me confused is now I realize Mike and Samurai are saying the same thing. No typo. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think Samurai misunderstood Mike. Mike said "WHEN the compressor should be running" and I think Samurai understood this to mean "the compressor should be running."

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Sorry for the confusion. What I was trying to say there is the compressor SHOULD  be running, but its NOT running.

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Well, I got the part today and went to install it. When I disconnected the old board I saw a black burn mark on the wall of the compartment where the board was. I flipped the board over and I saw that the board was literally fried. That confirmed what the problem was! :smile:

I installed the new board, plugged the fridge in, and the compressor started working!

 

Thanks everyone for your assistance and teaching! Beer money on the way!

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