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Kitchen Aid 48 built in

Control

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15 replies to this topic

#1 atcherservice

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Posted 27 January 2014 - 11:03 AM

T his is funny, ok not but here it is K/A m# KSSS48QMB01 1st time no cool, unit dead no cool, rebuilt control board unit test ok. Few weeks later, recall but for different issue, was iced over due to defrost issue, ran diag all passed, defrosted unit ck defrost t-stat bi metal was replaced so I replaced one, not exact cut in or out, but closed due to other being factory order. Recall 3 same issues, ck all diags all work ok, but iced over again, when placed into defrost all is good Per WP tech line, ADC issue re-send board for repair, I rebuilt the board 2nd time, reinstalled and low and behold unit is defrosted again. I am lost, I will be ordering a 2187673 that's the harness and bi-metal, fans seem to work in diag, and heater works, could it still be the defrost control?

 

Any feed back would be great?

 

Ken

At'Cher Service A/C



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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 27 January 2014 - 11:34 AM

ok first we have to assume you removed ALL the frost buildup.

secondly we have to assume the drainage line is clear.

Thirdly we have to assume what you are seeing is actually a defrost issue as oppose to frost being created because of something else such as air intrusion from the drainage tube, failed seal or non circulating evap fan.

if all those assumptions are accurate then that leaves the heater and bimetal. Since they come on during testing and since you already changed the bimetal (they can be intermittent) then that leaves the adc.

You may consider having another company rebuild the ADC if the problem continues. Too bad you can't get a factory manufactured new board.

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#3 PDuff

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Posted 27 January 2014 - 03:17 PM

What temperatures are displayed when unit is found not defrosting?  The Gemini board was definitely bad on the initial visit, but I've seen some issues with the interface boards for not defrosting, usually on units that have both Gemini and Niagra boards.

 

During diagnostic test, I see the defrost heater energizes when activated.  does the display show the bi-metal closed when checked?



#4 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 27 January 2014 - 03:56 PM

Pduff! Where ya been? I've been checking the skies.... no buzzards... checking the obits... no Pduff... Didn't even see you on the sick and shut-in list at my church... anyhow, glad to see you.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 27 January 2014 - 06:06 PM.

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#5 Strathy

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 10:18 AM

Those evaporator fan motors can take out the board.  Even though they are turning when you are there - they can slow down at times and begin to suck the amps through the board.  I would be taking a closer look at the evap motor especially if you are frosted up (another sign that could point to a fan not turning at speed.)  


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#6 PDuff

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 09:35 AM

Yeah, I have been AWOL for a while, but for good reason.  Just been slammed with business.  Between service calls, new product sales and deliveries, counter sales and helping the DIY's, I'm dancing as fast as I can.  Hell, I can barely make an outgoing phone call before 11 AM, and we've got three lines.

 

But fear not, my brother.  Like a malignant growth, I'll keep coming back.   :nuke: 



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:28 AM

Moving this to the Kitchen forum so Grasshoppers seeking wisdom for a similar problem can benefit from this topic.



#8 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:53 AM

Moving this to the Kitchen forum so Grasshoppers seeking wisdom for a similar problem can benefit from this topic.


you mean the problem of a disappearing fridge tech who returns as a malignant growth? You're right, that's the best topic I've read in quite a while. lol

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#9 atcherservice

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 10:47 PM

So I went back today to play parts monkey and to install the evap fan and bi-metal with harness and re took some readings here is my documentation a7amy5ez.jpgy7ubudyn.jpg8aru4uge.jpg Defrost the unit and went topside to recheck the Gemini board connections. All looked good and unit was cooling. When I buttoned up the main control guess what? etyqabu4.jpg Pop goes the control. I am not sure what to do if this is repairable or not. Do you guys thinks this can be repaired?etesuza7.jpg And I still may have an ADC issue on the P5jara2a2u.jpg Looking all around no replacement and I've used Core Centric 2x on the rebuild Any suggestions? Thanks, ken the reluctant parts changing monkey

#10 atcherservice

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 10:52 PM

Btw are there any rebuild board companies that the forum guys have been happy with?

#11 Scottthewolf

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:27 PM

I use this company:

 

http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/


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#12 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:35 PM

I use this company:

http://www.corecentricsolutions.com/

That's who rebuilt his board 2 times already. They usually do a good job and I've only had to return one board. I would call them and explain what's going on. If it's not a bad rebuild, at least they may give you some insight.

btw Ken, sometimes wisdom dictates we become a parts changing monkey from time to time.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 29 January 2014 - 11:38 PM.

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#13 Scottthewolf

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:50 PM

Kind of looks like water or moisture damage. 


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#14 atcherservice

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 12:38 AM

I thought so too but after I changed the harness with the new one I ohm out the harness and no issues even cross checked with the new one good to go. I will say that when I called tech line about the bi-metal they stated that the original bi-metal that came with the harness had different cut in and out temps but the replacement one was just a few degrees different. Even thou the bi metal check ok I still changed it out with the original one just in case

#15 PDuff

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 01:46 PM

Gemini board bad on initial visit........Defrost issues afterwards.......Defrost heater connected directly to neutral.......Main power supplied to Gemini on the P5 connector......Resistor shorted while buttoning up main control section......

 

Possible short in Master On/Off switch?  I've had to replace more than my fair share of those switches.

 

Defrost heater can be manually energized during component test with no ill effects........Shorted resistor in close proximity to the P8 connector.........

 

Inverter?  Sulphur damage from Chinese drywall?

 

I dunno, Brother atcher.  If I had an old board to look at I might be more help.  As far as other control board refurbishers, Fixyourboard is a Brother to these forums, although I've been using CoreCentric mostly and haven't had any problems.


Edited by PDuff, 30 January 2014 - 02:00 PM.


#16 atcherservice

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 11:07 PM

I finally got Corcentric to call back. They said the 2nd time we sent the board back there was no issues. They failed to mention that to me even though tech line felt pretty strong that the board was still an issues. The burnt shorted resistor I think is my bad even though Corecentric will re-man the board again I feel crappy about it because it's secondary to the original problem. It took 2 days and several messages from them before I got a response, that's why I was thinking of looking for another re-man company. I'm a loyal guy and I do remember the fix your board guys participating in these chats. I buy parts from repair clinic due to the affiliation with the forums so I think my next few shekels will go to these guys. Btw in response the the power switch, I remember thinking the fresh food door switch was funky looked like the paddle on the door hinge was bent and I assumed its what may have been the original Gemini failure. I check the switch and every timei go back I check the switch to make sure there's no issue but maybe it's a poor contact stl shuts Dow. The lights and touch pad upon closing. Thanks again for all of your guys insights. Ken - at'cher service





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