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GE Profile PFS22SISSS Fridge - Fluctuating Temperatures

GE Profile Fridge PFS22SIS PFS22MIS warm temperature temp defrost motherboard

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13 replies to this topic

#1 Travis Y.

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 02:44 AM

Hi,
 
I have a GE Profile PFS22SISSS Fridge.  I am not sure if this is the PFS22SISASS, BSS, CSS or DSS.  No where in/on my fridge does it mention the last 3 characters together.  Over the last 1.5 weeks, my fridge has been cycling between normal temps (0F freezer/37F fridge) up to (40F/55F) and then back to normal all within a day.  This sometimes even happens twice a day and I have confirmed the actual temperatures using a thermometer.
 
I searched on Google and came across other owners with similar symptoms.  Based on their experiences, I have replaced the motherboard.  Unfortunately, this has not solved my problem.  I have also removed the interior back panel in the freezer and have confirmed there is no frost build-up on the coils.  The coompressor fan and the evap motor fan are running strong and don't appear to have any issues.
 
The fridge is humming away trying to cool itself right now (temps are currently 48F/53F because I just spent time removing the interior back panel of the freezer).  However, I do notice a clicking noise (about once per minute) emitting from some electronic hardware attached to the side of the compressor.  It sounds like a relay switching on or off.  I believe the hardware in question are labeled as Items 810, 811 and 821 (Overload Protect, Thermistor PTC and Capacitor, respectively).  You can find these parts and associated microfiche if you go to https://www.geapplia...delgroupsearch# and search for "PFS22SISDSS".  These aforementioned parts are listed under "CABINET".
 
Please let me know if you have any suggestions as to what might be causing my problem.  I plan on watching my fridge over the next couple of days without the interior back panel in place.  I can better determine what's actually happening when the temps rise dramatically (I am guessing the defrost heater kicks in but am not sure why).  Anyone know what the clicking might be indicating?
 
Thanks,
Travis


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#2 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 06:24 AM

your ptc or compressor may be failing. More than likely it's the start device... get it here and return it if it doesn't solve the problem http://www.repaircli...7X10097/1265640.

Since you changed the board, you should also consider replacing all thermistors.

model number nomenclature plate should be located on the upper left wall of the fresh food compartment.

Consider becoming an apprentice and have access to the service manual if you are really serious about repairing the fridge yourself. Your service manual: http://appliantology...-service-guide/

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 28 January 2014 - 06:49 AM.

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#3 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 07:36 AM

You need to reinstall the back freezer panel, at least with a couple screws.

 

Without the evaporator cover panel on, the air flow will not be correct and won't be able to cool refrig side correctly without all panels in place.


William Burk (Willie)
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#4 Travis Y.

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:20 PM

Thanks for the replies!

 

Budget Appliance Repair:

That thought occured to me last night but since I don't have any food in this fridge at the moment, I just wanted to see the fridge & freezer try to cool itself down.  Unfortunately, the freezer never got cold over the last 16 hours.

 

DurhamAppliance:

Stupid me... my fridge model is the PFS22SISBSS.  As I mentioned in my response to Budget Appliance Repair, my fridge/freezer never got cold last night/today.  This is the first time it didn't get cold overnight.  Usually when it gets warm within half a day it goes back to normal.  One thing that's become very apparent now is that I definitely notice that clicking sound coming from either the PTC (starter device) or overload release (in this general area).  I have gone ahead and ordered the "PTC & OLP" part as you have suggested.  Once it arrives I'll give it a try and let everyone know how it works out.

 

BTW, why do you recommend installing new thermistors with a new mobo install?  And thanks for letting me know about the Apprentice membership.  I had no idea thhat the option was even available.

 

Thanks!



#5 olyteddy

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 11:34 PM

Take a look at the thermistors. If they are sealed with dark gray epoxy then you ought replace them. That's a seal that will fail and get wet inside. The ones that are all white (even where the wires go through) are generally OK. 



#6 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 07:26 AM

Olyteddy is correct regarding the thermistors with black sealant. But saying the newer ones are generally ok could be a bit misleading and lead to folks only looking at the color of their thermistor to determine if it is working properly or not.

If your GE fridge is having problems, thermistors, whether new or old, are the parts most prone to failure. Particularly the evap thermistor.

Let's put it this way, if your car is down and you have removed parts to access the engine, you might as well replace the spark plugs. Even though they may be working, they are cheap, have lots of mileage on them, it's a good chance you gonna have to replace one or more in the near future and your mechanic isn't charging you more for the labor anyway.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 29 January 2014 - 07:28 AM.

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#7 olyteddy

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 10:28 AM

But saying the newer ones are generally ok could be a bit misleading and lead to folks only looking at the color of their thermistor to determine if it is working properly or not. 

 

True that. I usually check resistance(s) at the control board too.



#8 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:42 AM

True that. I usually check resistance(s) at the control board too.

Agreed, but you have to remember we are not advising a tech but the owner and take in consideration the current situation. The possibility that a failing thermistor causing the fridge to cycle off an on constantly leading to an intermittent ptc exists.

I would advise a tech to test thermistors. It's what we do and we can do it quickly and accurately. Many homeowners do not have meters and testing can be challenging, especially since the sensors need to be tested at operational temps to check accuracy. It's easier and more fruitful to advise replacement of thermistors in this situation . At least change the freezer evap and freezer thermistor for this single evap model. Thermistors are only $8 each and then a couple of bucks for bell connectors and silicone.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 29 January 2014 - 11:48 AM.

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#9 tonytech81

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 10:29 PM

Use data logger

#10 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:15 PM

Use data logger


Come on guys, let's pay attention to who we are helping out here. You really think it makes since for a homeowner, who has already changed the mainboard, to invest in a data logger and/or meter for it to tell him whether he needs to buy an $8 part or not? Really?

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 29 January 2014 - 11:22 PM.

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#11 Travis Y.

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 01:23 AM

Okay, I think I got the gist of it: Change out thermistors.

 

I recall seeing a video that tested by putting the thermistor in a cup of ice water and measuring for an expected resistance of 16,300Ω.

 

Thanks again for all the help!  I'll post what happens when I get the part at the end of this week.



#12 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 06:58 AM

Your thermistors may test fine. Changing them (evap and freezer thermistor primarily) while your fridge is already down and under repair is simply preventative maintenance.

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#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 07:46 AM

Thermistors Part number: AP3185407

Part number: AP3185407



#14 Travis Y.

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:03 PM

I just wanted to provide everyone with an update on my fridge situation.  I received the compressor starter device (PTC) on Friday and installed it right away.  It's been about four days and my fridge is working perfectly.  I wanted to give it a few days to see if any of the common problems popped up again but everything's been running very consistently and staying on the set temperatures.

 

Thanks to everyone who chimed in and provided me with advice and suggestions!

 

Travis







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