Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
Guest beast_3

Whirlpool ice maker problem

6 posts in this topic

Hi, I have a Whirlpool GB2FHDXWB02 refrigerator. Ice was building up on the freezer floor and I fixed that today by removing the freezer back panel and melting the ice with a hairdryer and clearing out the drain. I think door hadn't been closed tight and moist air entered and froze on condenser and drain pan.

After several hours of running it seems fine, nice and cold in freezer compartment.

However I'm not getting any water into the ice maker. I had taken the ice maker out during the repair & replaced it. I did not remove the water lines or shut off the water to the ice maker during the repair. Electrical connection seems tight.

Any clue what I may have done wrong?
Thanks!
Beast3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

What is the exact temperature in the freezer. I believe the ice maker thermostat doesn't close until around 15 degrees to make the ice maker cycle. If it is cold enough then could have a frozen drain tube but I doubt it if you had the freezer open for that period of time cleaning the defrost. You could probably roll the fridge out and remove the fill tube from behind to verify the fill tube is clear. Is your ice level bail arm in the down position?

Do you have a multimeter? You can remove the front white cover off of the ice maker and insert your leads in L and N holes to check for 120v to the ice maker. You may need to close the door switch while you check this. If you have 120v, then try jumping T to H with an insulated jumper wire with the door switch closed and see if it cycles around and fills with water. T and H jumps out the thermostat that makes it cycle. Also reverify you wire harness connection at the ice maker and the back wall if for someone reason you don't get 120v to the ice maker. Try that and let us know what you find.

Edited by BryanS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How to manually cycle these icemakers:

 

 

If the icemaker does not cycle properly during manual test, then the icemaker is bad.  Replacement icemaker  Part number: AP4135008

Part number: AP4135008

 

The other possibility is that the water inlet valve is bad. You can test this by applying a jump record across the valve, applying 120 V AC to the valve. See if the valve opens and sends water up to the icemaker. If no water, and the icemaker fill tube is not plugged, then the water inlet valve is bad Part number: AP3961809

Part number: AP3961809

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I advise customers to wait 24 hrs after an ice maker repair before becoming concerned over lack of production.

That being said, a major theory of repair is to initially assume recent symptoms are related. Although it may not be true here, proceeding on that theory may yet prove to be fruitful

So how can they be related?

1) because you disconnected the icemaker to clear the icing problem, so as BryanS stated, check the icemaker re-installation carefully paying careful attention to the connections and fill tube, Sometimes it's easy to forget to push the tube through the evap cover. You probably did it properly but we have to cover all bases.

2) Again as Brother BryanS stated, temp problems can cause melting and refreezing resulting in ice on the floor as well as freezer not being cold enough to activate the icemaker and

3) A partially blocked icemaker fill tube and receiving cup can cause water to not enter the ice maker and wind up on the freezer floor. Once the fill tube completely freezes closex, water will not enter icemaker nor fall on the floor, giving the impression you corrected the icing problem but now face a different problem.. ie no ice production.

It's possible that your icemaker/water valve went bad at the same time as the icing problem but I usually aint one to believe in coincidences.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks for the advice.

 After checking voltage and testing with jumper and everything checked out OK, I took off rear panel to test inlet valve.

Apparently I was in too much of a hurry when I closed up the panel Saturday, and left the solenoid power connection off. Once that was connected water started filling the ice maker and its working again.

 

I really appreciate the information you all provided. Its great to find some many folks willing to help a stranger in need!

Thanks again!

 

Beast3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the update. We all get in a hurry at some point and miss connecting something or forgetting to put a piece in :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites