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Budget Appliance Repair

Need Maytag SxS RSW22E0CAL service manual

15 posts in this topic

Maytag SxS Refrig

Mod# RSW22E0CAL

Ser# 11315367KD

 

Need a service manual, specifically need to know if the ice chute door solenoid is 110volt or possibly only a 50 volt solenoid.

 

Solenoid has continuity, (around 200-300 ohms, forget exact reading), 110 volt cheater cord attached didn't activate solenoid, it just hummed until giving it a little help.

 

Tested voltage to solenoid from dispenser delay board and it is only outputting 50 VAC to solenoid and solenoid still opened door with help, (solenoid is definitely bad, worn plunger guide, it hangs up and won't release on its own).

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Solenoid Part no 67883-3 115vdc...  Part number: AP4082816

Part number: AP4082816

 

i take it the solenoid should operate universally?

 

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Affiliated part link.

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Thanks, I did find out that the solenoid is 115 V, it was in the parts description that I saw after making the post.

 

Still would like a service manual if anyone could find one for me.

 

Thanks,

 

EDITED TO ADD:  I just noticed that it is DC volts, not AC - it just said 115V on part description on the site I was looking at the parts breakdown on.  Looking at the picture I see it labeled as DC and then noticed, (which I missed on the first reading of your post), that you said 115 VDC.

 

I had my meter on AC when reading the voltage output of the board which showed 50 Volts steady on the AC meter setting.  Does any one know if that is just totally meaning less since I had the meter on the wrong setting.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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I actually could not believe what I saw and would never have guessed a dc solenoid. Being confused, it led to me researching the difference between an ac and dc solenoid. So, once again, you are instrumental in me learning stuff.

Unfortunately, I am only able to find manual for rw22A models which uses a different solenoid.. hopefully Reg can come to the rescue.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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Can anyone else answer the question:

 

What is the difference between a DC and an AC solenoid, both are just an electromagnet, (center core wound with copper wire)?

 

I applied 110 VAC to the solenoid to see if it would operate and it just buzzed but pulled closed when I gave it some help, same as it did afterwards with the power supplied by the delay board.  In both cases the solenoid wouldn't release on it's own with just the tension from the return spring, I had to physically pull the plunger back out, (seemed like the nylon center core glide was worn and causing the solenoid to hang up).

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I did come across a possible explanation of what you experienced though, of course, I can't vouch for the accuracy since most of it is greek to me...

"Ac coils for relays and soleniods have a shader ring(usually made of copper)on the top of the core. Because of the shader ring, the magnetism developed in part of the core lags somwhat the magnetism of the remainder of the core. That is, there is a slight phase displacement between the magnetism of the part of the core and the remainder of the core. Thus, as the unshaded-core magnetic energy decrease to zero every half-cycle, the magnetic energy still present in the shaded portion of the core holds the armature sealed. By the time the energy in the shaded portion decrease to zero, coil and unshaded-core magnetic energy have begun to increase once again as current increase in value.

Applying AC to a dc coil will cause the coil to hum and if it is a relay it will chatter. The resistance of a DC coil is about 4 times the resistance for an AC coil for the same voltage.

AC coils have inductive reactance in addition to the coil resistance that affects the coil current. The AC current for a 24V AC coil is about double the DC current for a 24V DC coil.

Operating a 24V AC coil on 24V DC could cause the coil to fail as the current would be too great. The current would be very close to 4 times the current for 24V DC coil. "

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=31610

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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Thanks Durham, I did a google search after I made my post and found that same info.

 

I think I need to go back and check what the DC voltage is that is coming off the board, since it sound like the 110 VAC would not pull in a 110 VDC coil just like it was doing just humming.

 

The delay board is pretty basic and I have a feeling it a case of bad capacitors on the delay board possibly not giving the higher initial surge it needs to pull the solenoid down.   The board just has a few diodes in a AC to DC rectifier circuit and few capacitors and resistors and the relay.  The relay is holding closed for the delay period after the ice dispenser actuator is released.

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may depend on how the Coil is wound

a DC Coil may be "reversible"

i.e. can be designed to "pull" or "push"

If applying AC, it's trying to do both

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similar:

http://appliantology.org/files/file/1597-maytag-refrigerator-rsw2200eae-parts-list-wiring-diagram/

Maytag Refrigerator
RSW2200EAE

parts list / wiring diagram
Repair Part List - RSW2200EAE

 

 

Dispenser / Fountain Delay Control Board

T3 PINK       L1 (if child switch, selector switch #2 (ice), & actuator switch, are all closed)
T2 WHITE    Neutral
T1 GREY      L1 (if child switch is closed)

then, if Relay energizes:
115v DC to Door Solenoid between:
T5 BROWN
T4 BROWN

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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Thanks RegUS, good info but I already have that on the back of the unit.

 

The parts list is much better then the one I was using and answered another question I had which maybe the reason for the solenoid not returning to closed position.   The parts diagram shows only one return spring on the solenoid side, (the one I'm working on has only one return spring but on the opposite side of the solenoid and there is a place for the spring on the solenoid side also).  

 

The parts list I had didn't specify the quantity of each part used, the parts listed you included does specify two return spring, so there is a good chance that is why it's not returning correctly, (not enough spring force to overcome the residual magnetism).

 

Thanks this should be enough info to get things taken care of, except that the return spring is NLA - will have to improvise.

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No RegUS, not that one, the one you are referencing holds the ice chute door to the strike assembly.

 

Part ref#31 (67339-1) Spring, Extension - RepairClinic shows expected ship date Feb.26-Mar.10 but I'm quite sure it would come up as NLA since the other 13 sites I check parts on show it NLA as of 05/2013.

 

EDITED TO ADD:  I forgot there are two locations at A1-Appliance showing they still have them in stock but almost $11.00 with shipping - I'm going to check the hardware stores first.

 

Spring-67339-1--00612682.jpg

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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Still would be nice to have this manual.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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... NLA since the other 13 sites I check parts on show it NLA as of 05/2013.

including that partstore ?

$ 2.80

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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Just as RepairClinic says an extended shipping date on a NLA item, that parts store says, "Currently out of stock but available as a Special order, Order Now".

 

I've dealt with them before on items that said that and they changed the delivery date everyday for almost 30 days then finally tell me NLA, I don't trust them on items that say that when it's already shown as NLA everywhere else.

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