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Kenmore 417.43142200 front loader, no spin, just slightest jog from motor


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17 replies to this topic

#1 BobinWNC

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 02:07 PM

Hi - I've read the other posts related to this machine and failure to spin, but mine is behaving a little differently.  The machine will fill and the timer will advance through all cycles, and the pump will empty all of the water out.  I just ran a "no-clothes" test load.  I have the front bottom panel off, and can see the motor trying to spin the drum when it should, but it does just the slightest little movement, then stops.  Does the same thing - mini jog - in reverse when it's supposed to.  I can reach through from the front access panel (machine unplugged) and feel that the belt is tight, and I can spin the drum manually by moving the belt.  When I open the machine and hand spin the drum, the drum and belt and motor all spin without restriction.

 

My machine is elevated about 18" on a very sturdy built-in deck which also holds the dryer. Very solid structural framing to the wall and floor, and I am sure not a factor in the problem I am having. No troubles in this setup for the past 5+ years. But the elevated location makes it a bit of a drag to get to the back of the machine easily.  I'll need to rig up a small platform to slide the machine onto to get to the back. Working from the front with the machine unplugged, I have checked and jiggled all of the connectors. One of the last successful loads run was 2 heavy blankets and the machine had "walked" forward about an inch.  I was outside, so I'm not sure how wild a ride it was.  I was hoping a connector had just gotten dislodged.

 

So ... what say ye, appliance gurus?  Anything else I can do without getting to the back of the machine to check motor brushes and control board?  Thanks in advance for any ideas.  This is a great site - just found it today.

 

 



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#2 fairbank56

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 06:58 PM

  You checked both connectors on the motor, and both on the speed control board? Unplug the 6-pin connector on the motor and check resistance of the motor windings and tach generator. The two motor white wires are the tach generator and should read about 184 ohms. Between red and blue, 2.6 ohms, between blue and black, 2.6 ohms and between red and black, 2.6 ohms. If it checks out, and motor shaft rotates freely, could be a faulty speed control. BTW, the motor in this washer does not have any brushes.

 

Speed control board Part number: AP3967975

Part number: AP3967975

 

Eric

 

Added: Here's your tech sheet so you can do some more testing to make sure the speed control board is getting the right voltages from the timer.

 

ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/webster/41487.pdf


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 17 February 2014 - 08:11 PM.
Affiliated part link using the yellow APP button in the edit window.


#3 BobinWNC

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 07:48 PM

Thanks, Eric.  I'll check it out in the morning. 



#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 08:11 PM

No tumble- no spin in these washers is almost certainly a bad motor control board.  Verify by checking the motor winding resistances and the tach resistance. If the motor winding resistances and tachometer winding check good, then the speed control board is the culprit.  This video show details:

 

 

Part number: AP3967975

Part number: AP3967975



#5 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 07:46 AM

Carefully check the wires on both sides of the motor molex connector.   I had one that got me, one of the motor wires was broken loose but still inside the plug and couldn't tell it was broken until close inspection and pulling on wires.


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#6 BobinWNC

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 12:07 PM

OK, thank you all for the helpful information.  I have done some of the meter work, but have to stop until tonight.  Thus far, from the 6-pin motor connection, the following readings:

 

white to white: 184 ohms

red-blue, blue-black, and red-black: all 2.9 ohms.  

 

It's possible that my meter calibration is off a little - it's old and rarely used. I tugged and wiggled all wires on both sides of the connection, and they appear to be sound contacts and connections. I also disconnected and reconnected all connections at the motor and at the control board.  Really hoped to get lucky there, but no.

 

Eric - you said to check "both connectiors on the motor". Remember I'm working from the front of the machine.  I see the 6 pin connector, a 2-wire (white) connector (tach, I assume) and a single green/yellow (ground).  I'm not missing any motor connections am I? 

 

So sounds like motor may be OK, right?  I'll head to the motor control board with the meter tonight.  I see that I can access it from the front by taking a couple of screws out which hold it to the bottom of the machine.  Thanks again for the help.

 

Bob



#7 fairbank56

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 01:35 PM

  Yep, that's all the motor connections. White two-wire is the tach. Looks like motor is ok. Check for proper voltage to the speed control from timer and if that's ok, then looks like a bad speed control unit.

 

Eric



#8 BobinWNC

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 09:20 PM

Sorry, but I seem to be a little deficient in the technical department. Where exactly am I checking voltage (terminal numbers or wire colors)? And timer in what position?

 

Now where did I put that stout ...



#9 fairbank56

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 10:42 PM

  It's all on the tech sheet that I provided a link to.

 

Eric



#10 BobinWNC

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 11:25 PM

Thanks.



#11 BobinWNC

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 02:14 PM

Decided to go through all steps on the "Motor will not run" list although it is doing little jogs in both directions.

1. I have power, pump works and drains water.

2. Motor does run (even runs fast) with drive belt off.  Running in both directions.  Since I'm still working from the front (bottom access panel) it was hard to get the belt back on.  When I rolled it off of the motor pulley, it popped off of the drum pulley.  Luckily I was able to remove the top of the machine with just 4 screws and could access the belt (long arms) and get it back on.  While I had the top off, I disconnected and reconnected every wiring module I could find.  One seemed a little out of place of the door lock, but after disconnecting and reconnecting, I think it's OK. So the motor runs great with no belt, but barely moves with the belt on.  Drum and motor both still spin freely by hand.

3. I'm getting no voltage across pins 5 and 6.  Zero.  Rechecked all connections, wiggled-pushed-pulled, even did the timer and door lock ones while the machine was running and motor should have been spinning.  Did this carefully to avoid any contact with conductors. Nothing. 

 

4.  I need some input at this point on "plug" vs. "harness" for this step.  The location I interpret to be the #2 connection on the 10-pin connection is empty.  Could someone please staighten me out on the instructions for #4 and maybe refer to male and female sides of the connectors instead.  Or harness sie vs. speed contoller side? I thought I was onto something with a zero voltage reading where it should be 120, but I may be doing this wrong.

 

Thank you.



#12 BobinWNC

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 02:45 PM

I went a little farther.  

 

4. I think I got orientations correct on step #4 and all voltages read as they should.  L/R mirror image orientation from what I was doing on the 10-pin connection.

 

5. fuse is good

 

6. I have the speed control off of the machine, nothing connected to it.  When I read ohms across 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 of the 6-pin connector on the speed controller, my meter just stays on "1". That's what it reads before I touch the probes to anything.  (When I touch the probes together, it changes from "1" to "0".  Sound right?  I almost never do this stuff.)  No matter what I set it on - the 200 ohm scale or the 20k ohm scale, no change.  That sounds like they are absolutely wide open.  I assume that is the final kiss of death for the speed control?  

 

Thanks.



#13 fairbank56

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 04:39 PM

  I don't know what meter you have but you need to set it so that it can read in the 3 megohms range. You should read 3 megohms ±10% when doing the resistance checks on the 6-pin jack of the speed control board. Since you are getting the proper voltages from the timer to the speed control, I would just replace the speed control. If you buy it from the link provided, you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

 

Eric



#14 BobinWNC

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 05:02 PM

I have a CALTERM Electronics 66430 multimeter (probably 20 years old), and when I set it on the 20K ohms scale, it certainly ought to handle a 3K ohm reading.  This meter had no trouble measuring the resistance on the motor, so I trust it.  Thanks very much for all of your help - ordering part now from provided link.  I can find it cheaper, but that is a great return policy and well worth the difference.



#15 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 07:14 AM

And certainly 3 Megohms is much more then 3K ohms or 20K ohms, the max your meter will read!

 

3 Megohms = 3,000,000 ohms

3K ohms = 3000 ohms


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
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#16 BobinWNC

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 07:46 AM

This meter has a 2000K scale also.  I think I got confused on the K vs. Meg terms.  With the meter set on that scale, speed control disconnected, my resistance readings on the speed control 6-pin connection itself (not the connector which plugs into it) are as follows:

 

1 to 2 = .200

2 to 3 = .198

3 to 1 =  .198

 

That said, I measured it 10 minutes earlier and got significantly different readings, in the high .3 range.  Just did it again and got all 3 readings in the .175 range.  The readings also "creep" as they are taken.  LOTS of creep sometimes. Do I need a speed control or an exorcism? I'm hoping it's the former since I ordered it last night.



#17 BobinWNC

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 07:55 AM

Correction - this meter has a little piece of trash or a "wound" inside the LCD which I mistook for a decimal this morning.  2nd cup of coffee and a little more sunlight has shown the error of my ways. So remove the decimal from in front of those numbers I just reported ... I think.  



#18 BobinWNC

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:36 PM

Speed control arrived and I just installed it. It's alive!  Thanks to all who helped.  Saved me some bucks, and definitely gave me more respect for appliance repairmen. 






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