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LittlSuzi

Possible Cause for Magnet Rust Issue LG Tromm

9 posts in this topic

 I got the "dreaded" LE code. First I tied the cleaning process.. machine worked fine empty although a tad noisy. But under load it still wouldn't tumble or spin. After reading your posts I took off the back of my machine and prepared to do battle with the Hall Sensor from Hell. My findings leave me a bit uncertain that the sensor is my problem. A. The magnets on the rotor have rust and I'm assuming they are causing it - see photos. B. The stator itself looks fried - and also covered in rust. C. Will the Hall sensor come with a stator assembly or do I still need to order separately? And D (and most important) where is the rust coming from?? I don't see evidence of a leak at the inputs.. actually I don't see evidence of a leak anywhere. Nothing I took apart last night showed any signs of moisture and I had tried several times to run "cleaning cycles" thinking the LE code was coming from excessive suds residue so I would think if a leak still existed I would have found evidence of that when I took the machine apart? Any thoughts? Am I out of my depth here? I am pretty handy (there's an urban legend of me switching out the color wheel on a Mitsubishi DLP 60" TV that's quite entertaining - 3 years ago .. TV still working great!) so I feel comfortable but if I get in much deeper I'm not so sure.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Model and Serial Numbers?

 

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<<< I got the "dreaded" LE code.>>>

 

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Likely a failed Hall Effect Sensor (need Model Number for correct part number)

 

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<<<where is the rust coming from??>>>

 

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A seepage leak at the rear bearing assy. Causes noise during spin (roaring/grinding)

 

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<<<The magnets on the rotor have rust>>>

 

<<<The stator itself looks fried - and also covered in rust>>>

 

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Not a concern. Both components can look something awful---but will continue to function flawlessly.

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Its either a WM1812CW or WM1814CW.. I can't find a difference except where they were sold and I'm not the original buyer. When I was running the cleaning cycle I smelled something overheating... from the look of some of the darkened coils on the stator I think it was probably the lacquer in the copper. So is the seepage leak at the rear bearing something I need to fix also? When I cleaned out the drain I found what looked like a few mangled plastic shavings and a large amount of sand.. but not much else.

I have pictures but can't find how to post them?

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<<<When I was running the cleaning cycle I smelled something overheating..>>>

 

<<<When I cleaned out the drain I found what looked like a few mangled plastic shavings and a large amount of sand..>>>

 

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Those descriptions are identical to:  The Door Gasket being slowly shredded by the stainless steel inner drum---when it is wobbling during the spin cycle (burning rubber odor).

 

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<<<is the seepage leak at the rear bearing something I need to fix also?>>>

 

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Yes---a major repair (bearings/seals/stainless tub etc)

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So I see the bearings and seal on the diagram.. AP4437292, Ap4436471 & AP4437693. Should I assume I need to change these and order them now? Does the drum have to be changed also?? IMG_20140217_083911_967_zps593b6e08.jpg." />IMG_20140217_083919_689_zps4d7ecbb8.jpg." />IMG_20140217_083930_087_zps2981a0ca.jpg." /> Finally see the photo posting link.. it wasn't showing up on the mobile version.

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Okay.. that didn't work. Sorry.

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The Stator and Rotor look fine.

 

At a minimium you'll need the following components...

 

Inner Drum  (3045ER0021B)

 

Inner Bearing  (4280FR4048K)

 

Outer Bearing  (4280FR4048C)

 

Bearing Seal (4036ER2003A)

 

Tub Gasket  (4036ER4001C)

 

Hall Effect Sensor  (6501KW2001A)

 

And will likely need (based on the residue found in the pump strainer)...

 

Front Tub Cover  (3551ER0011A)

 

Door Gasket (4986ER0006B)

 

While doing all of this---replace the...

 

Drain Motor  (4681EA2001T)

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