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JennAir Range

Cascading Failures

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13 replies to this topic

#1 john63

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 12:04 AM

War Story of the Day...

 

A customer called with a complaint that *one* of the surface burners was not igniting (no spark)

 

JennAir Range/Gas

 

Model: JDR8895AAW

Serial: 14031292JA

 

Part Needed: Burner Switch Assy (5 switches in a harness) part # 12002792

 

Simple enough.

 

Cannot get the screws out of the burners (corroded)

 

Drilled all screws out---and now top cover can be removed.

 

Next problem...

 

Cannot replace the burner switch assy---unless two of the burner valves are removed (needed clearance to slide off 2 of the switches

 

Next difficulty...

 

Plugs for the switch harness can only be accessed from the back

 

Need to pull out the range (cabinetry on both sides)

 

Got that done---now onto the burner orifice assy...

 

Screws are *severely* corroded and will not "come-out"---even when MAPP gas is used until they're glowing embers...

 

Next on the list---gotta order 5 burner orifice assys and return in March (customer will be out of town).

 

Challenging to say the least...


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

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#2 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 06:48 AM

 

 

Plugs for the switch harness can only be accessed from the back

 

Need to pull out the range (cabinetry on both sides)

 

 

 

Been there - Cut and spice.


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

#3 electro_doc

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 05:08 PM

Does it ignite if you turn on one of the other swithches?



#4 john63

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 11:35 PM

<<<Been there - Cut and spice.>>>

 

**********

 

That'll be the plan next time,Chat.

 

The real concern that I have is---how common is it for these JennAire/Maytag burner screws to permanently corrode/foul?

 

I was able to remove only 3 of them---they were not stainless steel either.

 

**********

 

<<<Does it ignite if you turn on one of the other swithches?>>>

 

**********

 

The center spark-switch was shorted (black-burn-residue)

 

Replacing the bank of switches was simple enough---except for the fact that 2 of the surface burner valves needed to be removed---to get adequate clearance. I'd rather not be disassembling *any* gas burner valve unless I'm replacing it.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 electro_doc

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 11:54 PM

Does that stove justify the parts and labor.  Is it a high end JennAir?  Does the blue book cover this job?  Just curious, seems like a lot of work, just wonder if it's worth it.  I think somehow it balances out in the end.



#6 john63

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 01:05 AM

It's a dual-fuel double oven,Doc.

 

I priced the job 395.00 for the ignition switch assy.

 

Now I need $90.00 (wholesale/dealer) in burner/orifice assys

 

Gonna "eat it" and move on :)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 electro_doc

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 09:18 AM

Yeah I get it.  Win some lose some.  Like I say you have to take the good with the bad but it all evens out in the end.



#8 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 02:38 PM

 

<<<Been there - Cut and spice.>>>

 

 

The real concern that I have is---how common is it for these JennAire/Maytag burner screws to permanently corrode/foul?

 

I was able to remove only 3 of them---they were not stainless steel either.

 

 

Almost always.

 

Have learned to replace the switch harness without removing the top. It is tight quarters, but you can raise the top just enough to get at the harness with the burners still attached by unbolting the top and the valve manifold from the top. Just enough room to slip the wire harness off of the valve stems. Otherwise, estimate includes all burner bases, screws, wire harness, valve switch covers, etc..

 

Lesson learned: Always try turning the screws on any gas range burners before quoting the estimate. This is not the only model where heat and moisture seize those screws...


We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

#9 electro_doc

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 02:50 PM

Confirm:  Had a GE gas last week.  Could only get the two front and the middle screws out.  Used needle nosed vice grip pliers, saved my butt a few times.  The Phillips fittings were rusted out.  Had to change 3 gas valves as well as switches.  It was tight but I was able to raise the top in front too.  What a mess, greasy gooie gunky mess.  Was an old customer and they were happy, The guy before me said it couldn't be done.  He was from GE

 

Doc



#10 -Mike-

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:41 PM

Most the frigidaire ranges have the burner screw problems too.

Keep a bottle of anti-sieze on your truck. Any time you're taking the screws out when the range is new and the screws are still removable  cover the threads so you'll still be able to remove the screws  in the future. There has been a few times I was glad I did that when I was out 5 years earlier.



#11 john63

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:16 PM

<<<Lesson learned: Always try turning the screws on any gas range burners before quoting the estimate. This is not the only model where heat and moisture seize those screws...>>>

 
**********
 
Lesson learned,indeed :)
 
It's funny though---I've not had many gas cooktop/ranges in which the screws could not be removed *at all*.
Usually a little manipulation (heat/penetrant/viseGrips/etc) was successful.
 
Effective immediately: Test all gas burner screws first....  ;)

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 -Mike-

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 01:19 AM

 

 

 
Effective immediately: Test all gas burner screws first....  ;)

 

Thats a good policy to have.



#13 Scottthewolf

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 02:42 PM

The best design I ever saw was the Maytag sealed gas burners that just twisted  to remove and install without requiring tools or just a round strap wrench. Screws are always a bad idea when heat, moisture and grease are involved.


Edited by Scottthewolf, 24 February 2014 - 02:43 PM.

Scott Wolf

#14 PDuff

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 04:21 PM

Same rule applies to the Thermador jet tubes.  I'll always make sure they can all be loosened before quoting the estimate.  If they can't, I'll shotgun everything.  Jet tubes, burners and base, even the supply tubing.






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