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GE pot scrubber model GSD2220Z04BB is it worth fixing?

23 posts in this topic

I am working on an older GE pot scrubber dishwasher that I posted about back in 2009. At that time I recall I put a new inlet valve on it and have not heard about it since.

 

http://appliantology.org/topic/20972-ge-potscrubber-needs-to-be-primed/

 

Now two new renters later it is acting up again. Current renter reported half dissolved soap packs in the soap tray. FYI this renter is on the road a lot and it does not get used regulary. It appears to be doing the same thing as last time.

 

I disarmed the latch lockout and opened the door a crack, started it and it spurts out a small initial little burst then stops. Looks like it is just recirculating what was in the unit and not filling. I let it go for a while and it just sat there, no more water entered and it did not fill. I stopped it then dumped in a quart of water, it slowly starter to pump more, the rotor arms started slowly turning. I let it go through a full wesh/dry cycle with no soap in it a couple of times then tried it with soap, same thing, half dissolved soap packs in the soap tray. It also does not seem like the heating coil is getting hot, 

 

I took the plastic drain grate out of the bottom and cleaned it, checked to see the water shut off is full open and checked to see the floatie thingy seems free. 

 

Thoughts?

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

These are one of the cheapest dishwashers on the market and depending on the age of the unit, it may need a whole pump and motor assembly Part number: AP2616850

Part number: AP2616850

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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sounds like it's just not getting water again. check the valve.  It may have a screen in it you can clean.  It sounds like it wants to let water in but is being restricted somehow.  Check to see if you have good water to the valve.  If so, see if you have a screen to clean in the valve where the water coming in hooks up.

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Scottthewolf, if it is the pump it's not worth fixing, electro_doc, I'll check the flow, I am also going to check to see if the heating element is working. I am wondering if low water temp is the reason the soap pack is not dissolving.

 

Thanks, I will work on it and post back.

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yes, low water will cause that.  I agree, something simple ok, something like motor or pump maybe not.  If however you are doing the work then a pump seal kit might be worth it.  Sounds like your motor is ok and sounds like your pump is ok.  I believe you said when you put water in that it ran ok.

 

Doc

Edited by electro_doc

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Back on this, I went looking for an affordable replacement but have not found anything local yet

 

Here is the report-

Even after multiple cycles with no soap in it it still has nasty soapy water in the bottom

Dishwasher pump is working, I disabled the door switch held it open an inch and it popped up the little center spray thingy, arms spun and shot water 12 feet across the room

I took off the incoming water line at the valve and I have good flow

I have continuity on the valve

I do not have any voltage upon starting a cycle at the inlet valve connector

Reviewed and prayed to Oh Great Appliance God's FAQ         http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/07/04/ge-dishwasher-drainology/

I cleaned the sump entrance screen

My unit has posts and a spot for the self clean unit described in the FAQ bit there is no hole in the tub or one there

Pulled the unit and checked to see I have continuity on the drain valve

I do not have any voltage upon starting a cycle at the drain valve connector

No a new disposal has not been installed recently

Do not see any kinkiness going on with the drain hose

Bad drain valve or timer?

 

THANKS!

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I think the drain valve normally kicks in right at the beginning of the cycle for a minute or two to drain out any left over water before starting a new cycle.  It is however sometimes difficult to to check because it is sensitive and putting it on by hand is not easy.  The best thing to do is put a jumper cord on the solenoid, 110 volts direct and see if it energizes.  If it does then maybe it's a bad timer.  I'd go with the solenoid though before the timer.  You have to pass or eliminate it first before you can proceed further.  You could also ohm it out if you can't rig a test cord.

 

Doc

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Sometimes you have to let the timer go through the drain position on its own to check for power at the drain solenoid. You can start the dishwasher and just watch a volt meter connected to the drain solenoid wires and it should power the drain solenoid within 10 minutes from a start position. Like electro_doc said, its very easy to pass the drain position on the timer when turning it manually.

If you don't get any power to the drain solenoid its going to be a bad timer or a broken wire.

 

 

About if the dishwasher is worth fixing or not for a renter...If it was my dishwasher and it was in decent condition I  would fix it, even if it is a pump. Its a cheap dishwasher but they work well with how most renters use things. They have a lot of power and a  high water level so they work better then the new ones as far as washing and rinseing goes if the tennant is  treating the dishwasher as a garbage disposal. Most tennants I deal with can kill a new energy efficiany, water conserving dishwasher in a year.

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The drain solenoid on most of these GEs is momentary action. They pull a flap down in the pump housing then release. The water being pumped out the drain then holds the flap in place. Try flipping the flap by hand and see if the pump pressure will hold it in drain mode.

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Flipped the drain flap manually like olyteddy suggested and it drained OK put 2 quarts in the bottom again and flipped again and it drained.

Ran the cycle with a multimeter connected to the drain wires like Mike suggested and watched for 15 min, no voltage.

Attached jumper to the drain solinoid like electro_doc suggested and it works.

Also noted that running the dish dry cycle does not heat the element. 

 

At this point I am thinking timer, what do yoy experts think? If get pump seals while I am at it, thats $100. I found a Frigidaire FFBD2403LW never used on craigslist, was put in when the owners rehabbed to sell the house, new owner wants stainless so they are asking $200, I think I can get it for less. Decision time!

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These GE's are not good at being left alone for any period of time. The motors seize, the drain flapper warps, timer develops

dead spots. I would change brands for long periods of inactivity...

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Sure sounds like a timer.  About the only other thing to do would be to check the wires from the timer to the solenoid to make sure they are not brocken.  Check continuity.   I can't ever remember changing a timer on a pot scrubber.

 

Doc

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Getting no water, drain solenoid never activates and heater doesn't work.

 

Most likely a problem with the push button selector switch bank, neutral for all of those circuits are ran thru one of those switches.  Pull the cover over the push-button switch bank and look for burnt/crispy wire connectors, they had a problem with these and the new switch kit comes with all new connectors and 6 inch wires to replace burnt wiring.

 

I'm pretty sure it's going to be the energy saver switch, (the one farthest to the left on the control panel). Part number: AP2617669

Part number: AP2617669

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Interesting,

I think it is odd that both the drain and inlet solenoid show good continuity and when when hit with 110 direct AND the heat element does not appear to work. 

 

Chat in FL, I appreciate that insight, trying to convince my wife to replace but she is pushing to fix unless I can find a replacement that matches the off white that matches the rest of the appliances.

 

Electro doc, continuity checks out, your note about the timers rarely going out is helpful.

 

Budget Appliance Repair, I will take a close look today at the switch bank, any way to bypass or jump these to test?

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Something like this makes a lot more sence to me.  They  should be easy to jump.  Inspect the wires like Budget said.  If they aren't that bad you could check continuity on them as well.

 

Doc

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Switch should be easy to bypass/jump, for either option, (No heat dry=energy saver option or Heated dry), IF you know how to read the wiring diagram.

 

The wiring diagram is usually tucked between the metal plate and plastic tub on left or right hand side.

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Budget Appliance Repair - I think you might have nailed it. A quick visual inspection of the connectors and wires showed no burnt wires but some browning inside the clear plastic spade connector covers on each of the end connectors on the three wire ENERGY OPTIONS switch ...


 


BUT when I pulled the connectors of the switches the farthest right male spade connector came out of the switch along with the female wiring harness spade connector. It looks like the switch overheated as it looks melted around where the male spade came out. Can't find the wiring diagram to jump it but I am betting this is it.


 


On the front upper left of the panel are two rocker switches the ENERGY OPTIONS has three wires, the CYCLES has two wires - switch sets are marked ...


 


CYCLES {Pot scrubber - Normal wash} - on the left          ENERGY OPTIONS - {off - on} - on the right


 


Sooo I used the spade that came out and jumped the center connector to the far right connector, threw a couple of quarts of water in the bottom to see if the drain solenoid would kick. Popped a Moerlein OTR ale, started a full cycle and kicked back and read about our local beer revival.


 


http://www.ohio.com/blogs/the-beer-blog/the-beer-blog-1.273124/christian-moerlein-to-toast-10th-and-161st-anniversaries-1.469069


 


Sure enough , when the timer hit SHORT CYCLE the drain kicked in, so after this full cycle runs I will put a soap pack in and see if it runs and finishes with no soap residue and report back.


 


Thanks you guys rock.

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That's awesome!  Looks like Budget called it.  Great job hanging in there to figure it out.  Get back to use after the full cycle and the cold one or two. :pint1:

 

 

Doc

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That recall has nothing to do with the energy saver switch problem.

 

The recall is about the rinse agent dispensers leaking and causing the wiring to get mushy and deteriorate and short out causing fires.

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That recall has nothing to do with the energy saver switch problem.

 

The recall is about the rinse agent dispensers leaking and causing the wiring to get mushy and deteriorate and short out causing fires.

Correct.  Only the really old bottom of the line GE dishwashers with a slide switch or a toggle switch for the drying heater are the ones that were recalled for the switch overheating and possibly being a fire hazard.  Pushbutton  switches were never in the recall. GE Factory Service did a ton of these reworks back 10-15 years ago in apartment buildings. It must have been nice for a technician to spend all day or at least half a day doing nothing but these recalls in one apartment complex and getting 60 or 70 completed calls in one day with no driving time. That will boost a technician's productivity reports!  Too bad Sears doesn't get more of these types of calls.

Edited by Scottthewolf

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I thought it might have been a recall because I've got a few rocker switch kits that include splice on spade connectors and a new humidity seal for those pushbutton models. 

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Here's the text of GE service bulletin DD 02-00 that seems to pertain:

 

 

N.D. 525-01

GE Appliances

General Electric Company

Appliance Park, Louisville, KY 40225

Service Bulletin

DISHWASHERS DD 02-00

CYCLE SELECTOR SWITCHES

MAY 2000

DISHWASHER CYCLE SELECTOR SWITCHES

Model Families: GSD1920, GSD2100, GSD2200, GSD3100, GSD3200, GSD3300

Pump out and/or no water complaints have

been received on the above dishwasher model

families. The cause of the problem can usually

be traced to the connections between the wire

harness and the cycle selector switch. These

models have pushbutton cycle selector

switches with pink insulated harness terminals.

Poor wire crimps on the pink insulated termi-nals can cause a high resistance connection

and terminal heating. Excessive heat will cause

the plastic switch housing to soften. This in turn

allows the switch terminal to push out of the

back of the switch, opening the drain solenoid

and/or water valve circuit. The open circuit

prevents any further heating. Technicians

sometimes report this as a burned out or

melted switch.

The proper fix for the pump out and/or no water

problem is to replace the pushbutton switch

and the pink insulated terminals on the wires

connected to the switch. The pink insulated

terminals are indicated in the illustration.

Product service has kits for the repair. The kits

include a switch andattached short harness

assembly that is to be spliced into the existing

harness with butt connectors provided in the

kit. Use all insulated terminals provided, do not

re-use original pink insulated terminals.

Three different kits are available to accommo-date the different switch/harness combina-tions. Order the original switch and it will

automatically supersede to the correct kit.

Follow the installation instructions in the

switch/harness kit.

Typical switch layout on GSD1920, 2100, 2200 series. Wiring varies between models.

Typical switch layout on GSD3100, 3200, 3300 series. Wiring varies between models.

525-01-1

Pink Insulated Terminals

525-01-2

Pink Insulated Terminals

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