Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Isn’t it time to know what you don’t know?

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
DanInKansas

DPSQ495GT0WW-- guttering flame, propane dryer

26 posts in this topic

Original call was for "no heat." 

 

Went out, put dryer into service.  Noticed that the dryer started as soon as I advanced the timer, so push-to-start switch is stuck in closed position. 

 

Put my mirror at the observation port, saw a nice bright glow, and then heard the flame ignite.  The sound was absolutely wrong -- sounded like wind rattling the windows -- whump whump whump.

 

Took the dryer apart, held the belt switch in place and watched. When the flame ignited, it moved in bursts, like a guttering torch.  After about a minute the flame shut off. This seemed dangerous to me -- bad and incomplete combustion.  Maybe I'm just a pantywaist, but I don't like flame stuff misbehaving. 

 

Quizzed the tenant.  No other propane appliance is acting up.  Tank is at about 25% capacity, give or take, so should be enough to supply steady pressure.  Hot water tank is on the same line as the dryer, and according to tenant it's been fine.

 

Put in a new valve set (WE14X215) and a new propane conversion kit.  Started the dryer up.  EXACT same behavior -- bad quality, inconsistent flame.  When flame ignites a small "POP" happens at the orifice with a yellow flame and then there's a small blue flame right at the orifice along with sputtering blue flame in the burn tube. 

 

Tech sheet says to check venting -- this all happened with the drum off or on, and with the vent hose disconnected from wall.  Additionally, tech sheet says to check safety thermostat and trimmer -- I alternated taking the wires off these and running the dryer with the leads alligator clipped together -- same behavior. 

 

So. New valves, electrical checks out.  Thoughts?  

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Focus on the gas supply. Tank low, failing regulator, rusting/ corrosion in line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

rust or corrosion in the flu blocking gas or starving for air?  kink in gas line, valve not open all the way?

Edited by electro_doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rust or corrosion is logical given the age and condition of the piping. Valve at the wall was opened all the way before and after valve change out. 

 

Would a manometer pick up the decrease in supply pressure, if there is one? We don't own one at the shop and I've never used one. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw something similar in a water heater- copper supply line had corroded/deteriorated on the inside. Innner diameter was reduced so much, almost no gas was getting through. The flame floated and guttered- I thought vent and air supply at first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think a manometer would work for that.  It's for checking pressure but not while you're using it.  It might work to check the pressure of the gas leaving the regulator.  I was going to say you could have a regulator problem, not letting enough gas trough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw something similar in a water heater- copper supply line had corroded/deteriorated on the inside. Innner diameter was reduced so much, almost no gas was getting through. The flame floated and guttered- I thought vent and air supply at first.

 

That very well could be it.  The supply line runs in an iron pipe across the ceiling of the basement. One iron pipe comes straight down from there to the valve.  The valve has a copper pipe that comes out and around in an sort of a half-loop.  

 

Sounds like a way to test/verify this would be to shut the gas off at the valve and then disconnect the copper and inspect visually? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah and check the iron pipe too.  I'd bet more on the pipe than the copper.  It has a tendency to corrode around turns or valves.  It"s because the friction causes electrical activity attracting the corrosion.  Let us know what you find.  I think you are on the right track.

 

Doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If tanks haven't been replaced in many years you may need to contact supplier. LP tanks will develop moisture inside tank and cause rusting/corrosion. Also the supply line coming from into house can corrode from the inside because of moisture. It doesn't sound like an exhaust problem. It really sound like poor gas supply to the dryer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If tanks haven't been replaced in many years you may need to contact supplier. LP tanks will develop moisture inside tank and cause rusting/corrosion. Also the supply line coming from into house can corrode from the inside because of moisture. It doesn't sound like an exhaust problem. It really sound like poor gas supply to the dryer.

 

Customer reaction is going to be: "Oh horse apples.  All the other propane stuff is working fine, fix my dryer."  Any ideas on how to explain why one part of the system would corrode or give bad pressure before another one?  (Honest question: I haven't run across this particular problem before.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry Dan I didn't catch that part, other LP appliances are fine. However, do we really know for sure the other appliances are fine? If yes than we can focus only on the dryer line or shut off. Tough question for ya, are you absolutely certain you installed the correct orifice? I had a similar problem years ago for a customer. THey had only bought the house recently and said dryer was never really right. Poorly drying etc. So of course I'm thinking bad coils, intermittent, failing after on for a bit no problem. Put the new coils on, reassembled dryer and ran to test. This is when I noticed the flame was weak and not right. I'll fix it, I have a valve on my truck. Replaced valve, of course using the orifice from the other, and same frigging thing. Long story short....  the Nat. orifice was never replaced with the LP orifice. By the way this was like a 12-15 year old KA dryer. Strange part was the regulator had been converted. Anyway, installed correct orifice and all was good. Just a thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely sure about the other appliances and the orifice.  We've sold these folks a stove -- gas valve on their old one would stick open after thermostat cut power to igniter.  New stove is working fine.  

 

Orifice is from the LP conversion kit to that valve set, so I'm sure as I can be on that front. 

 

Also behavior is the same from both old and new valve/LP conversion kits, so seems like behavior source would be up the line from the dryer's inlet valve/coil set. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This goes back to my original thought, focus on supply of gas then. With other appliances ok it would indeed, seem to not make sense that tank and regulator parts of tank are faulty. The supply line just for dryer only is all I can guess.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the regulator on the dryer get changed to LP as well?

 

Doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the regulator on the dryer get changed to LP as well?

 

Doc

Good thought. Did you convert regulator of new valve?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But is it actually installed in this dryer? I've seen numerous botched conversions on both gas dryers and ranges where the PCM replaced the metering spuds but didn't touch the regulator.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aw hell boss, you know by now I ain't no PCM.  I put a new propane conversion kit with the new valve to make sure I had clean undamaged parts in the dryer, and so I used the new blocking pin in the kit.  My usual thinking is "if it's included, it's there for a reason."

Edited by DanInKansas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put a new propane conversion kit with the new valve to make sure I had clean undamaged parts in the dryer, and so I used the new blocking pin in the kit.

None of this was clearly or explicitly stated in your posts, hence my clarifying question.

It wasn't even clear that you did the original conversion.

As far as I knew from what you said, you were batting cleanup behind a PCM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found Frigidaire dryers are the worst for LP conversions, I've never seen another brand have this problem when doing a conversion, (it's usually the air adjustment that with the LP conversion kits for Frigidaire have virtually zero adjustment ability).

 

First big problem, almost impossible to see how flame is burning, but you definitely know it's wrong when you hear it pop back to orifice then sounds totally wrong burning, (have to have up on blocks and site thru little channel in bottom of dryer or kind of thru stack mount holes to even see flame).  The you have to pull it all apart to try and make any air adjustments, can't run with front off and have airflow to adjust while running.

 

I HATE FRIGIDAIRE LP CONVERSIONS!!!!!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found out today that the install crew tried to solve this problem yesterday by taking a gas dryer out of the basement, converting it to propane and driving it out to install.  Same problem with a different dryer; we advised customer to call gas company. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like it wasn't the dryer, as you suspected.  Any apologies from the client?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also with the frigidaire dryer, be sure to change the mounting bracket with the one supplied with the kit. Very important. I have found that the popping and the whistling sound is caused by mis- alignment of the venturi with the orifice. The LP bracket in the kits is heavier and has slightly different construction. This has long been a problem with the friggy dryer and they haven't been able to engineer around it. I  am absolutely certain from many many battles that it is caused by the orifice not being lined up perfectly down the center of the venturi and if you tweak the damn thing you will be able to correct it somewhat. Its still a turd no matter how much polish you put on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like it wasn't the dryer, as you suspected.  Any apologies from the client?

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!

 

I have gotten, just off the top of my head, the following from customers: fish, steak, eggs, squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, cake, honey, a letter of praise sent to Whirlpool, home made salsa, $5 bills, name-calling and once a $20 tip. 

 

I don't think I've ever gotten an apology from a customer who was wrong. 

 

That is totally okay.  I specifically got into this line of work so I could get out of sales and quit having to persuade and cajole people for a living. All I really need from my customers is that they pay me when I'm done and that they stay out of my way while I'm working. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites