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F28 and door locked on WFW9450WW00


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Tim M

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:17 PM

OK.

 

Washer has an F28 code and the door locks up.  Won't start a wash.  Doesn't do anything.

 

Tried this:

http://appliantology...t-sport-washer/

 

Couldn't get a reading from the pink wires without removing them, then got 120 V briefly until I heard a loud click.

 

On the blue wires didn't get more than a few millivolts.  Had to remove to test.  Wonder if I am just missing the time they are on or what.



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#2 Tim M

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:21 PM

OK.  So I guess I'm stuck with two things.  Is the door lock interfering with the power supply?

 

How can I tell if I'm getting 5V DC from the blue wires?



#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:31 PM

The F28 error code is exactly analogous to the F11 error code in the old Duets: serial communications error between the CCU and MCU.  Both are caused by the same things and both have the same cure described in this video:

 



#4 Tim M

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:49 PM

And with that the door stays locked even when unplugged?



#5 Tim M

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:59 PM

So I run the diagnostics and get up to C02.  It fills for a second 3 or 4 times maybe, then beeps a few times and gives me f28.  So the fix the connection advice in the video said it only applies if I CAN run the diagnostics, is that right?


Edited by Tim M, 24 February 2014 - 07:02 PM.


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:00 PM

The door will stay locked until the cycle is allowed to terminate properly.  Catch 22: the cycle can't terminate properly if the CCU and MCU can't talk to each other.  

 

Go ahead and try the life-saving techniques illustrated in the video.  



#7 Tim M

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:22 PM

OK.  I tried bending the prongs.  No dice.  Then I opened and inspected the board.  The contacts looked just as good as the ones next to it, and with my soldering skills they'd only come out worse. 

 

Isn't there a way to check the connection before trying to mess it up?

 

So I unattached the end from the motor controller and put my ohm meter in there.  Then on the main CCU I touched the other lead to the connections that the harness is clamped onto.  Getting good connection.  (Interesting, I get a split second connection BETWEEN 1 and 3.  And of course regular connections between 1 and 1, and for 2 and 2, and for 3 and 3).


Edited by Tim M, 24 February 2014 - 07:28 PM.


#8 Tim M

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:34 PM

So, am I back to my original question?  How do I measure to see if I am getting 5 Volts DC out of the blue wires?  Which blue wire to measure, and does it only show up for a limited time?  Can I disconnect to measure them?

 

Given that the connection is good, so I think, how do I measure whether the CCU is sending data, or the MCU receiving it?

 

Okay, now that it has already progressed to the error code F28, I'm getting 5V between the two out side wires.  Between the middle and the outside I'm getting 3V on one side and 1V on the other.


Edited by Tim M, 24 February 2014 - 07:52 PM.


#9 Tim M

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 07:09 PM

Any other ideas?



#10 sh2sh2

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 09:10 PM

5 volts on the 2 outside wire is good, do you have 120 volts the pink wires at the motor control when the door is locked and the cycle is started, if so the mcu is bad



#11 Tim M

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 11:34 PM

do you have 120 volts the pink wires 

 

 

Yes the pink wires have 120V.  In this link

http://appliantology...t-sport-washer/

they said it had to be measured while connected.  I couldn't get a measurement that way, so I disconnected them.  Hope that's OK.



#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 12:01 AM

unless otherwise directed, all voltages should be made with the devices connected


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#13 Tim M

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 02:59 PM

.   So I ordered the motor control, and that did it.  Granted the places linked to from this Web site allow you to return the item even if installed, but I like to be sure before I install it.  The way one has to eliminate every other possibility completely in order to diagnose a printed circuit board has gone bad is a major headache.  This was a confidence builder that will let me come to that conclusion much faster the next time.  In fact, after hearing all the clicks between the two circuit boards, and seeing the behavior of the drum when it is working properly, I'll be able to have most of my diagnosis done the next time before I even open up the machine.

 

 

.   When you order the new motor control, some Web sites will charge you a $50 core charge that will be refunded when you return the defective one.  On some sites the charge won't show up until you place the item in your cart.  That means that some sites will look $50 cheaper than others.  Just make sure you know what prices you comparing.

 

.   The plug on this machine is ever so slightly different than the one in the video.  There are small holes on the outside edges of the plug so you can push the tines inward straight through the back instead of prying from the front.  Don't overdo it, and check to make sure they aren't bent too far inward.  If you don't, the board can run into them and crumple them up, which would create another headache altogether.  The connection wasn't the issue in this case, though.

 

.    I'll close with a $10 donation, and since the "Donate" button is missing from this page, I'll recycle my old haiku so anyone who reads this and gains wisdom can donate as well:

 

 

Appliance question

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Donate to Web site 

 

 

 

 

 

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#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 04:17 PM

Domo for the brewskis, Brother Tim!  

 

Motor control board Part number: AP5306924

Part number: AP5306924






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