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Roper rax7245aw0, acting funny, water won't stop, finish cycle


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32 replies to this topic

#1 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 08:24 PM

I've got an older Roper RAX7245AW0 that came with the house we bought last year.  It's been a sturdy unit so far.

 

Last week, one day I walked in the bathroom and it was stuck at the dot on the rinse/spin cycle.  Pushed the knob in, moved it a notch, fired it back up and finished.

 

Today things are all wonky.  It was finished and in the 'off' position but water was still pouring in the basin.  Pushed in the knob, spun it around and the water never stopped -- But even with the knob IN, it was catching spin and rinse cycles and trying to run.  Knob in, knob out, no difference.  Ended up unplugging it and water stopped (So solenoid valves are opening and closing, just the machine is keeping it on).

I'm assuming I need a timer at this point, and found http://www.repaircli.../285938/1016893 this guy on here after finding  http://appliantology...ashing-machine/ this thread.

 

I just wanted to post and ensure that it made sense to someone else before spending $130.

 

Thanks!



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#2 electro_doc

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Posted 28 February 2014 - 08:53 PM

Yes sounds like timer.  Order it from APP and if it's not the problem, return it for a full refund.  Pretty sure the timer should fix it.

 

Doc

 

Part number: AP3605418

Part number: AP3605418

  Here's the link for the part with full refund if needed!


Edited by electro_doc, 28 February 2014 - 08:58 PM.


#3 PDuff

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 05:03 PM

Concur with Brother electro_doc.  Easy to spot failure symptoms of the Whirlpool washer timer is stalling in or around the rinse cycle as well as a prolonged "refresh" during the spin cycle, where water is constantly sprayed on the load instead of momentarily.  Go ahead and replace the timer, Ralph.  The direct drive design unit is no longer and well worth the repair. 



#4 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 08:03 PM

I agree with the timer
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#5 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 11:18 PM

OK guys, got the new timer in and the behavior is still as bizarre as before.

Pushing the button in and rotating the selector, it engages the cycles.  There's no 'off' by pushing the selector in.  I fired it up and ran it, the water turned on and off a few times so the solenoids are working, but it got to an 'off' and just kept going into the next cycle!

It's like the machine is ignoring the timer, or something.  Completely possessed.  Help!  I'm over a hundred bucks into this now and it's no better than before.

Ground issue?



#6 electro_doc

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 11:37 PM

Well, looks like you have stumped the panel!  I can't remember ever running into anything like what your discribing.  I've run into many timers that were bad and causing this symtom.  What you are discribing sounds like a possible problem in the wiring harness.  Maybe with the quick disconnect someplace.  Your supicion of a ground does sound possible also.  Whatever it is will entail checking all the wiring.  Maybe somebody can find a scimatic and figure something else out.  Hang in there,  we will help you find it.

 

Doc



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 12:12 AM

Did you order the new, OEM timer linked above or did you buy a rebuilt timer off an auction site?



#8 john63

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 12:20 AM

<<<but it got to an 'off' and just kept going into the next cycle!>>>

 

**********

 

I'd re-verify the washer Model Number---and that the Timer Part Number is indeed correct.

 

If it is correct---the replacement Timer is likely a "dud".


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 06:41 AM

I got it from Sears, brand new.  The original timer was superceded with the number 285938 as posted earlier in the thread.

 

The behavior seems pretty much the same as the old timer.

The most disturbing thing is the fact that when the button is pushed in, it doesn't kill power to the system.  It's still reacting and running.



#10 Patricio

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 06:46 AM

Ya know if you got it from Appliance Parts Pro you could have returned for a replacement at no cost.   Good luck with Sears.


I see says the blind man, leading a lame dog, while talking to a deaf person. In other words, Not liable if you choose to follow my opinion.
IgonFishn

#11 fairbank56

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 08:20 AM

The most disturbing thing is the fact that when the button is pushed in, it doesn't kill power to the system.  It's still reacting and running.

 

  Unplug timer connector. Does that kill the power? If so, timer is bad. No "ground" can cause this problem. Visually inspect timer connector and wiring harness leading from it. Probably nothing out of the ordinary. Replace timer. I have the wiring diagram if anybody wants it but it's just a standard Whirlpool no frills two speed system.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 07 March 2014 - 08:22 AM.


#12 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:03 AM

Ya know if you got it from Appliance Parts Pro you could have returned for a replacement at no cost.   Good luck with Sears.

 

I'd never expect someone to refund me on a part that I bought because I misdiagnosed something.  I'll eat the $114, because it was my mistake, not theirs.

 

  Unplug timer connector. Does that kill the power? If so, timer is bad. No "ground" can cause this problem. Visually inspect timer connector and wiring harness leading from it. Probably nothing out of the ordinary. Replace timer. I have the wiring diagram if anybody wants it but it's just a standard Whirlpool no frills two speed system.

 

Eric

 

Unplugged the connector and the water solenoids are still commanded open and buzzing (Because I turned the water spigots off).  Unplugging the connector seems to have no effect unless, obviously, it's in a timed cycle.
 



#13 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:31 AM

Hey Eric:  This has to be a shorted wire.  Somewhere the power cord has to be shorted.  I don't see how the water valve can be getting power if the timer is disconncted.  I seem to recall the valve being activated by compleeting the negative circuit.  Couldn't this be grounded causing this.  Maybe check to see if the washer body is hot.  Put your meter from some bare metal to a ground. 



#14 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:40 AM

I know it seems silly to mention grounding since it happened out of the blue, but I have a bit of experience with control circuits in industrial PLC's and have seen the weirdness that ground issues can do with industrial applications.

 

I also considered the chassis being hot -- I didn't have a meter handy at the house (Buried in my equipment trailer) but will have one tonight.  I did, in the name of science, ground myself to some copper pipe and touch nearly all the metal surfaces of the machine in hopes of getting that 110v tickle, but didn't.


I appreciate all the time you guys are putting in on this, too.  Great crew.  Hopefully I can pay it forward in some of the places I'm more experienced.



#15 fairbank56

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:41 AM

  Definitely shorted wires somewhere but that's different than a ground. Water valves are operated by switching hot side, not neutral, neutral is always connected.

 

Eric



#16 fairbank56

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:45 AM

 I did, in the name of science, ground myself to some copper pipe and touch nearly all the metal surfaces of the machine in hopes of getting that 110v tickle, but didn't.

 

  I think you are pulling our leg, is it April first already?

 

Eric



#17 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:53 AM

  I think you are pulling our leg, is it April first already?

 

Eric

 

I work with 220/480 all day.  I'm not scared of a little 110v nip.  So no, not pulling your leg.



#18 fairbank56

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:17 AM

  For all the electrically challenged reading this thread, NEVER check for a hot chassis by placing yourself between a known good ground and that chassis looking for a "tickle". Might as well play russian roulette. That goes on my list of dumbest things Iv'e ever heard of.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 07 March 2014 - 10:17 AM.


#19 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:17 AM

With the connector off the timer, put a probe in where the black wire goes in and take the other probe and touch every other pin in the connector.  Find out which one you have continuity to and track it to where it is shorting to the black wire!  I can't see any other possibility.  Black is going to the valve without passing through the timer.  Got to find out how and fix that.  Thanks for clarifying that ground issure Eric.  It just seems to me while working on the machine with the valve not energized that I would sometimes get a buzz for the valve.  Could be the timer was on but the lid was up and so It had power but not the compleeted circuit.  I know the black wire at the timer connector is the positive.  Do you agree that checking it at the harness could give us the shorted wire?

 

Doc



#20 fairbank56

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:27 AM

  Yes, that is a good way to troubleshoot the problem. Don't use the terms positive and negative though, they are for DC circuits. Use L1 or Hot, and Neutral. The lid switch is not in the water valve circuit for this washer nor for most any other Whirlpool direct drive models.

 

Eric






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