Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Ralph Brooks

Roper rax7245aw0, acting funny, water won't stop, finish cycle

33 posts in this topic

I've got an older Roper RAX7245AW0 that came with the house we bought last year.  It's been a sturdy unit so far.

 

Last week, one day I walked in the bathroom and it was stuck at the dot on the rinse/spin cycle.  Pushed the knob in, moved it a notch, fired it back up and finished.

 

Today things are all wonky.  It was finished and in the 'off' position but water was still pouring in the basin.  Pushed in the knob, spun it around and the water never stopped -- But even with the knob IN, it was catching spin and rinse cycles and trying to run.  Knob in, knob out, no difference.  Ended up unplugging it and water stopped (So solenoid valves are opening and closing, just the machine is keeping it on).

I'm assuming I need a timer at this point, and found http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Timer/285938/1016893 this guy on here after finding  http://appliantology.org/topic/34062-roper-rax7245wao-washing-machine/ this thread.

 

I just wanted to post and ensure that it made sense to someone else before spending $130.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Yes sounds like timer.  Order it from APP and if it's not the problem, return it for a full refund.  Pretty sure the timer should fix it.

 

Doc

 

Part number: AP3605418

Part number: AP3605418

  Here's the link for the part with full refund if needed! Edited by electro_doc
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Concur with Brother electro_doc.  Easy to spot failure symptoms of the Whirlpool washer timer is stalling in or around the rinse cycle as well as a prolonged "refresh" during the spin cycle, where water is constantly sprayed on the load instead of momentarily.  Go ahead and replace the timer, Ralph.  The direct drive design unit is no longer and well worth the repair. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with the timer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK guys, got the new timer in and the behavior is still as bizarre as before.

Pushing the button in and rotating the selector, it engages the cycles.  There's no 'off' by pushing the selector in.  I fired it up and ran it, the water turned on and off a few times so the solenoids are working, but it got to an 'off' and just kept going into the next cycle!

It's like the machine is ignoring the timer, or something.  Completely possessed.  Help!  I'm over a hundred bucks into this now and it's no better than before.

Ground issue?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, looks like you have stumped the panel!  I can't remember ever running into anything like what your discribing.  I've run into many timers that were bad and causing this symtom.  What you are discribing sounds like a possible problem in the wiring harness.  Maybe with the quick disconnect someplace.  Your supicion of a ground does sound possible also.  Whatever it is will entail checking all the wiring.  Maybe somebody can find a scimatic and figure something else out.  Hang in there,  we will help you find it.

 

Doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you order the new, OEM timer linked above or did you buy a rebuilt timer off an auction site?

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

<<<but it got to an 'off' and just kept going into the next cycle!>>>

 

**********

 

I'd re-verify the washer Model Number---and that the Timer Part Number is indeed correct.

 

If it is correct---the replacement Timer is likely a "dud".

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got it from Sears, brand new.  The original timer was superceded with the number 285938 as posted earlier in the thread.

 

The behavior seems pretty much the same as the old timer.

The most disturbing thing is the fact that when the button is pushed in, it doesn't kill power to the system.  It's still reacting and running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya know if you got it from Appliance Parts Pro you could have returned for a replacement at no cost.   Good luck with Sears.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The most disturbing thing is the fact that when the button is pushed in, it doesn't kill power to the system.  It's still reacting and running.

 

  Unplug timer connector. Does that kill the power? If so, timer is bad. No "ground" can cause this problem. Visually inspect timer connector and wiring harness leading from it. Probably nothing out of the ordinary. Replace timer. I have the wiring diagram if anybody wants it but it's just a standard Whirlpool no frills two speed system.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya know if you got it from Appliance Parts Pro you could have returned for a replacement at no cost.   Good luck with Sears.

 

I'd never expect someone to refund me on a part that I bought because I misdiagnosed something.  I'll eat the $114, because it was my mistake, not theirs.

 

  Unplug timer connector. Does that kill the power? If so, timer is bad. No "ground" can cause this problem. Visually inspect timer connector and wiring harness leading from it. Probably nothing out of the ordinary. Replace timer. I have the wiring diagram if anybody wants it but it's just a standard Whirlpool no frills two speed system.

 

Eric

 

Unplugged the connector and the water solenoids are still commanded open and buzzing (Because I turned the water spigots off).  Unplugging the connector seems to have no effect unless, obviously, it's in a timed cycle.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Eric:  This has to be a shorted wire.  Somewhere the power cord has to be shorted.  I don't see how the water valve can be getting power if the timer is disconncted.  I seem to recall the valve being activated by compleeting the negative circuit.  Couldn't this be grounded causing this.  Maybe check to see if the washer body is hot.  Put your meter from some bare metal to a ground. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know it seems silly to mention grounding since it happened out of the blue, but I have a bit of experience with control circuits in industrial PLC's and have seen the weirdness that ground issues can do with industrial applications.

 

I also considered the chassis being hot -- I didn't have a meter handy at the house (Buried in my equipment trailer) but will have one tonight.  I did, in the name of science, ground myself to some copper pipe and touch nearly all the metal surfaces of the machine in hopes of getting that 110v tickle, but didn't.


I appreciate all the time you guys are putting in on this, too.  Great crew.  Hopefully I can pay it forward in some of the places I'm more experienced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Definitely shorted wires somewhere but that's different than a ground. Water valves are operated by switching hot side, not neutral, neutral is always connected.

 

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I did, in the name of science, ground myself to some copper pipe and touch nearly all the metal surfaces of the machine in hopes of getting that 110v tickle, but didn't.

 

  I think you are pulling our leg, is it April first already?

 

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  I think you are pulling our leg, is it April first already?

 

Eric

 

I work with 220/480 all day.  I'm not scared of a little 110v nip.  So no, not pulling your leg.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  For all the electrically challenged reading this thread, NEVER check for a hot chassis by placing yourself between a known good ground and that chassis looking for a "tickle". Might as well play russian roulette. That goes on my list of dumbest things Iv'e ever heard of.

 

Eric

Edited by fairbank56
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the connector off the timer, put a probe in where the black wire goes in and take the other probe and touch every other pin in the connector.  Find out which one you have continuity to and track it to where it is shorting to the black wire!  I can't see any other possibility.  Black is going to the valve without passing through the timer.  Got to find out how and fix that.  Thanks for clarifying that ground issure Eric.  It just seems to me while working on the machine with the valve not energized that I would sometimes get a buzz for the valve.  Could be the timer was on but the lid was up and so It had power but not the compleeted circuit.  I know the black wire at the timer connector is the positive.  Do you agree that checking it at the harness could give us the shorted wire?

 

Doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Yes, that is a good way to troubleshoot the problem. Don't use the terms positive and negative though, they are for DC circuits. Use L1 or Hot, and Neutral. The lid switch is not in the water valve circuit for this washer nor for most any other Whirlpool direct drive models.

 

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah well I get confused, it could have been GE or Westinghouse or who knows what, but I do remember getting lit up from a water valve that wasn't working at the time I touched it.  Not really relavent here anyway.  You could put your meter on the L1 at the cord and with the timer unplugged try to find continuity in the water valve circuit.  This is for sure a strange one. :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to admit I'm pretty perplexed.  Mostly so by the fact that it just happened out of nowehere.  I've shorted wires after WORKING on things, never just having it sit there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't forget to bring your meter home from work.  Do you know how the front and sides and top come off all together to allow easy access to ererything?  It should not be that hard to find out what is going on once you have a meter and some time.

 

Doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, did a little metering.

 

I have a legit good 120v on the L1 (Black).  Good ground from chassis/green to my house ground.

I ran around the black plug and found 120v on a few of the wires to ground;  A violet which seems to be connected to the pressure switch and other things, a Yellow/REd (I think) that exists in a few places too.

Haven't gotten the back off fully yet, just wanted to check the visible wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moving the water temp switch changes the solenoid activity.  It seems to be more prevalent on Cold, and on one setting it will turn off completely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites