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Roper rax7245aw0, acting funny, water won't stop, finish cycle


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32 replies to this topic

#21 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:38 AM

Yeah well I get confused, it could have been GE or Westinghouse or who knows what, but I do remember getting lit up from a water valve that wasn't working at the time I touched it.  Not really relavent here anyway.  You could put your meter on the L1 at the cord and with the timer unplugged try to find continuity in the water valve circuit.  This is for sure a strange one. :wacko:



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#22 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 02:11 PM

I have to admit I'm pretty perplexed.  Mostly so by the fact that it just happened out of nowehere.  I've shorted wires after WORKING on things, never just having it sit there.



#23 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 05:16 PM

Don't forget to bring your meter home from work.  Do you know how the front and sides and top come off all together to allow easy access to ererything?  It should not be that hard to find out what is going on once you have a meter and some time.

 

Doc



#24 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 07:35 PM

OK, did a little metering.

 

I have a legit good 120v on the L1 (Black).  Good ground from chassis/green to my house ground.

I ran around the black plug and found 120v on a few of the wires to ground;  A violet which seems to be connected to the pressure switch and other things, a Yellow/REd (I think) that exists in a few places too.

Haven't gotten the back off fully yet, just wanted to check the visible wiring.



#25 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 07:52 PM

Moving the water temp switch changes the solenoid activity.  It seems to be more prevalent on Cold, and on one setting it will turn off completely.



#26 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 07:57 PM

Is that with the timer disconnected?  What do you mean the back off?  The washer back should not come off.  The console rotates up so you can access it.  Take out two screws on left and right front of console.  Pull console forward and rotate up.  Remove two big clips on washer top located toward the back and on the left and right.  Then the whole top and sides and front rotate forward and slide off.

 

Doc



#27 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 08:36 PM

Well, I traced the solenoid behavior back to a pink wire that was live 120v coming out of the pressure switch, and in turn to a violent wire that was live feeding the pressure switch.  All these violets terminate at the plug.

Finally, after already tearing the back off and swearing a lot and testing the lid switch, I took a good hard look at the wires in the big black plug.

See anything wrong with this picture?

242hjt3.jpg

 

Looks like our primary got warm enough that it merged with the violet wire.  Explains why the push/pull wasn't affecting anything.

Now the big kicker is WHY did it happen?  I know I can split these up and isolate them and make them run again.  Just at a loss as to what could have been the culprit.  I'd hate to magma the thing good next time.

 



#28 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 08:37 PM

Apparently I took it apart the wrong way.  Whoops



#29 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:32 PM

...annnnd now the lid front and sides will not go back on.  At all.  I either get the back section aligned and the front sticking up, or the front section down and the back splayed out where it won't connect.

 

Easy my hind end.



#30 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 11:24 PM

I've come up on messes like this before.  It's hard enough to fix if you know how and really hard if you don't.  Be patient.  Maybe someone has a link to a video that shows how it goes.  Google taking a whirlpool direct drive washer apart.  Heat is usually caused by a loose connection or a loose contact.  check the pins on the connector.  Good job finding the problem, sorry about not thinking to tell you to disconnect the timer before buying one.  You would be excused for the miss diagnosis and get a full refund at parts pros.  Live and learn, thanks for the lesson.  This little bit will hopefully help someone else along the way.  Again, Good Job! :pint1: After you get it all back together, have a cold one for me.

 

Doc



#31 electro_doc

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 11:27 PM

The front has to go under the lip on the bottom front frame and the sides go up and then in to fit some tabs in some slots on the sides.  You really need 3 hands and when you get an old corroded body that won't stay straight it is really a difficult task.  Good luck

Thanks for the picture!

 

Doc



#32 Ralph Brooks

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 09:08 AM

Managed to get it! It was a case of me trying to force it.  Once I tilted it and allowed it to fall into place, it was much easier.

 

Thank you SO MUCH appliance gurus!



#33 electro_doc

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 11:32 PM

Good Job, and like I said, sorry about the timer.  Glad you stayed with it and figured it out.  Have one on us! :pint1:

 

Doc






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