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Samsung RM255LASH/XAA - Compressor works, no air flow and no cooling inside fridge/freezer


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51 replies to this topic

#1 dalbert

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 03:01 PM

A few questions:

  1. Is servicemanuals.net any good? They have a manual for this fridge, but their "sample" has nothing within it which would indicate the quality of the full document.
  2. Is there a test mode for Samsung fridges, akin to what I've seen on an LG model in this video?
  3. What might cause all the fans in the freezer/fridge compartments to not blow?
    1. How can I test them? Either the sensors or the fans themselves.

 

My compressors runs, judging by the noise. The fan between the compressor and the coils is spinning, blowing fairly hard.

There is no airflow from any of the vents in the fridge/freezer. We first noticed the problem in the freezer, and as of right now the freezer is 56 degrees and the fridge is holding steady at 38 despite being in Power Cool mode.

 

I'm wondering if there is some single point of failure that would cause all 4 fans to not run. The easiest thing would be to replace the motherboard, but how can I verify that this is the real problem? I've found on the circuit diagram a connector with labels for various fans. I disconnected it and tested the voltage between the ground pin and each of the others, both on the plug and the receptacle, and got noting for any of the pairs. I was pretty sure that when I pulled the connector some of the humming stopped, like I'd perhaps killed a single functional fan. I just tried that again, and it's definitely stopping something (not the compressor) when I unplug it. It sounds like it's coming from the lower fridge compartment, and indeed there are pop cans in there that are still quite cold. Seems strange that 3 out of 4 would go bad together. 

 

See my motherboard here.



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#2 BryanS

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 03:17 PM

Samsungs typically have a magnet switch that has to be closed before the fans will come on. So with the door open you may have to run a magnet around the top until you find it. Then verify that you really don't have airflow. You may not feel airflow if your evaporator coils are iced over as well. Is this a newer model? I've only worked on 2 of these with the 4 sections and they were probably around 2008. I had thought these were discontinued. They are a bit of a pain. One wasn't holding correct temp in the bottom left drawer. Changed a board on that one. Another had an iced over coil in the freezer section and bottom drawer. I believe we changed the defrost thermistor. I would get the manual from this site. I think that servicemanual website you linked is probably not a trustworthy source. I cannot zoom in on your pic for some reason to read the board connectors. Typically your fans run off of dc and you would test the connectors with needle point leads to verify voltage.

#3 dalbert

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 04:29 PM

Yes it is from that time, around 2008. 

Here's a plain, high resolution photo. 

 

I've found no ice anywhere, and I cleaned out all dust/cat hair from the compressor/coil compartment. Are there multiple coils throughout the unit? I assumed there was just the one, next to the compressor, with the manilla-colored fan between them. Here's a pic of the bottom-back of the fridge to show what I'm talking about. I just checked the air flow like you said. Turns out you just need to hold down the switches that keep the lights off when the doors are closed. I checked all 4 compartments and all 4 have air flow. So,

  • I've found no ice
  • I have air flow
  • the fan next to the compressor is spinning
  • the compressor is hot but not skin-burning hot
  • the freezer compartments are warm (50s)
  • the fridge compartments are cold, but warmer than their settings (set to low 30s, actual temp is 38)

Should I unplug the unit for a while to allow any unseen ice to melt? Is it even possible that there is unseen ice, or have I seen pretty much everything already just by looking behind the 2 removable panels on the back of the unit?

 

About the manual: from my searches around this site I'm not sure if the service manual is here. There's a fast track manual for RM255, but I'm not sure what that is. And there are service bulletins. I see here that someone PM'd the manual to someone else, maybe I can get the same treatment after I subscribe.



#4 BryanS

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 04:34 PM

I believe you do have to subscribe and then you can request a service manual in the forum labeled service manual request. If the fans are blowing and compressor is running it could be a sealed system issue. You would need to pull the covers inside to see what your frost pattern looks like.

#5 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 05:43 PM

the fast track is what you need. You need to run diagnostics and that info is found in the fast track. It's possible you have a sealed system failure but check the fast track for thermistor testing info, as a failed thermistor can cause wacky things in a Samsung

Bryan, the four section Samsung fridges are alive and well but found in RF models. Although most models have 2 drawers, they are still designated as four door fridges. The RF32FMQDBSR, however, is a current 4 door fridge that looks similar to the model in question.

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#6 BryanS

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 05:46 PM

Ah. I thought they were coming back but I still have a very strong dislike for them :)

#7 applianceman97

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:49 PM

Some 4 door models have 2 compressors. One runs r134a. One runs r600a. R600a system you can service. Refrigerant lines are painted red.

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#8 dalbert

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:51 PM

When you say "sealed system" are you referring to the refrigerant circuit, the stuff that only a licensed person can touch? Like a leak?

Can I trust that if the temperatures on the display are correct then the sensors are also accurate, ie that there aren't separate sensors for the display readout?

Additional evidence that the temp sensors are fine is the fact that when I hold the door-close-switch down the evap fans do come on, so it must know that the compartment is too warm.

 

I bought the subscription, got the fast track, pulled the back panel out of the freezer compartment. No ice, not even any condensation. That compartment is up to 63 degrees now - I figure if it had been iced over this morning then it would have stayed that way since I've kept it powered all day. That's what I experienced in the past when an air conditioner got frozen pipes.

I did not disassemble the refrigerator side b/c it's still full of food and I assume that finding no ice on the freezer side means it's not an icing issue. To verify my assumption: is it possible that ice on the evaporator coil on the refrigerator side could cause the freezer side to not work at all while still somehow allowing the fridge side to stay somewhat cool?

 

I did the self diagnostic. The first time the only error was one that the fast track says is to be ignored (Uart communication). I did it a second time after some disassembly and got additional errors but they all had to do with the fans, which were no longer attached. I checked voltage on the 2 defrost wire pairs by sticking probes into the back of the connector (touching the metal that's crimped onto the wire. I got 130vac on each. Plus I've seen no ice so this check was probably irrelevant.

 

Do I need to start trying to test all the sensors with a multimeter, or have I effectively ruled everything out and therefor must call a repairman to check the sealed system?

 

Also, thanks for these prompt replies. Though I haven't fixed anything, I've already learned a bunch today and I'd say this was $12 well spent.



#9 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:51 PM

Bryan, I'm rignt there with ya, my brutha! Just wait 'til the fridges with sealed system cooled Samsung icemakers hit the market. I thought they decided to scrap that design but I understand they are on the way. Not as bad as the Frigidaire finger evap but a refrigerant line will run under and attach itself to the icemaker.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 01 March 2014 - 10:05 PM.

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#10 dalbert

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:53 PM

Btw, the freezer coil:

https://dl.dropboxus...reezer_coil.jpg



#11 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 06:57 PM

Regarding thermistors, no you cannot make that assumption. There are no short cuts when it comes to testing thermistors. Samsung specifically advises that thermistors should be tested at operating temps.

Regarding sealed system failure, yes that would require someone with knowledge and specialized license to repair. I don't see many Samsung sealed system failures, however.

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#12 applianceman97

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 08:01 PM

Bryan, I'm rignt there with ya, my brutha! Just wait 'til the fridges with sealed system cooled Samsumg icemakers hit the market. I thought they decided to scrap that design but I understand they are on the way. Not as bad as the Frigidaire finger evap but a refrigerant line will fun under and attach itself to the icemaker.


They are on the market now my brotha. They actually seem easy as long as you follow the steps. If you skip the forced defrost though, you will be buying the customer a new refrigerator.

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#13 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:04 PM

yeah, i remember disassembling one last year, that backwards arm upside down maneuver needs a bit of practice.

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#14 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 01 March 2014 - 10:20 PM

I would concentrate on thermistors before changing the board. Samsung board failures are quite rare however you may want to check for voltage from the board to the 3 way valve as well as test the 3 way valve itself. Procedures should be in the fast track.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 01 March 2014 - 10:25 PM.

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#15 Jason_Son

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:16 AM

Try this site http://support-us.sa...er/tr/index.jsp
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#16 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 05:44 AM

Try this site http://support-us.sa...er/tr/index.jsp


Still an unfinished product, Checked it yesterday and it yielded no results. I expect some good things from the site in the near future.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 March 2014 - 05:49 AM.

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#17 Jason_Son

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:53 AM

I got it at ASTI also the manuals and fast track should be available even to non warranty sometime in summer through Plus One
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#18 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:37 AM

Plus One has training videos as well but we will have the manuals and updated fast tracks in the download section in the next couple of days. Last year they gave out the manuals on a cd. This year, the trainer would put it on your data key if you asked. Of course, our folks asked.

The Sara site will only provide info advising the most common parts needed to repair a particular issue. It's about 75 to 85 percent accurate at the moment.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 March 2014 - 11:11 AM.

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#19 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:06 AM

btw, you can take out the evap, ff and freezer thermistors and test them at 32f by submerging them in an ice water slurry (mostly ice) ... this will create the reference temp of 32f which you can compare with the chart in the fast track. You should get 13.29 k ohms +-5 percent. Since thermistors are cheap, it's only logical to rule them out first, even if it's not readily apparent that your problems are caused by one or more of them.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 March 2014 - 11:10 AM.

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#20 applianceman97

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:20 AM

In about a month they will have a diagnostic tool that hooks to a windows computer to test samsung refrigerators. Nick said you can toggle defrost, run fans. All kinds of stuff. It will be available to non authorized servicers.

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