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dalbert

Samsung RM255LASH/XAA - Compressor works, no air flow and no cooling inside fridge/freezer

52 posts in this topic

I may be able to test the diverter in the morning before work, but time is tight.

The diverter is part of the sealed system, right? So even if it is faulty I can't fix it myself anyhow? Looks like I have to throw in the towel on this one.

DurhamAppliance, my wife tells me that Google tells her that you're the best in the area. We'll be calling you tomorrow.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Google is correct!!!

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But not when it comes to sealed system repairs! 

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I finally cracked open the evaps on the fridge side last night, since leaving all the food in there was becoming futile. Here are pics of what I saw.

The condensation seen in several places is normal, right? That's what the defrosters are for? 

 

I'll try the temp-monitoring test on the 3way diverter this afternoon, but if that thing works fine then what's next?

I feel like I've run out of things to test, though of course a pro would be able to do much more I'm sure. I'll read through more of these Samsung guides as time allows.

 

 

Somewhat off topic: do you guys have a favorite infrared temperature gun?

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I would like to see a picture of the entire evap to check out the full frost pattern.  Looks like some cooling is occurring so I suspect the valve is switching but I need to take a better look . If  some cooling is occurring ,we  need to make sure the valve is switching properly.  That would be a function of the sensors.  If they all test fine then we are probably looking at a restriction in the line somewhere between the valve and the freezer evap.

 

I have several ir guns but my favorite is   the fluke 62 max  $85 bucks on amazon I reviewed it here   http://appliantology.org/topic/44635-fluke-62-max-and-max-ir-thermometers/?hl=%2Bfluke+%2Bir

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Here are the voltage readings from the sensors while power cool and power freeze were on.

The fridge had been off for a while preceding this, so for the first 3 measurements I left it with the settings it has when it starts up. Then I cranked up all the cooling options, which I noted in the linked spreadsheet. I highlighted in red the sensors that actually changed at all, and the labels on the far left are what the picture in the fast track names them. I also translated the red voltages to rough temperatures based on the chart in the fast track. I'm not exactly understanding what I should be looking for here, but I'm guessing we'd like to see larger temperature swings here?

 

Here's a photo of the full evap stack on the fridge side. The unit had been running for almost 2 hours, and with Power Cool on for almost 1.5 hours. There's a light frosting on the copper tube at the top. While we're looking at it: the yellow wires leading into a plastic clip - is that one of the temp sensors? Perhaps "R Def Sensor"?

Edited by dalbert

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So I called Durham Appliance and Thrift (local appliantologists) yesterday to see if they could give me a reference for someone to fix a sealed system problem, just in case that turns out to be the problem. The fella said Sears. Is that right? Do you have to call sears to fix sealed systems?

 

Given everything I've tested, what do you guys think are the odds that I can get this fixed by my local repairman (ie that it's still not a sealed system problem)?

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It depends on the area. Not many repairmen do sealed system work. It is very time consuming and most people do not want pay the $600 to $800 repair bill. I tell everyone in my area sears as well. There isn't a local guy in my area that does a good sealed job. If you were to fix your machine I would call sears as well. Each tech know his market well. If Durham says sears is the best in his area, I would believe it. We are here to help on this site not hurt. Hope it all turns out well.

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you spoke with my office manager. There are many non-reputable companies in the area and many of the reputable ones do not work on Samsungs. He provided you with a reputable company that also works on Samsungs but some of their techs may not necessarily be competent. Call the office again and ask to speak with Ty. If I am not in or if I'm unavailable, make sure to leave your number and I will return your call. I will discuss this with my parts house and hopefully they will provide me with a name or two.

Edited by DurhamAppliance
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It's looking like this just might be a sealed system problem, but just for completeness I'm posting here the results of my resistance check on the coils.

From the fasttrack motherboard picture, we have:

  • CN75
    • 1 +12VDC (Red)  [previously tested to GND and found to have 13.5 volts]
    • 2 Coil A (Blk)
    • 3 Coil A Inverse (Yel)
    • 4 Coil B (Org)
    • 5 Coil B Inverse (Blu)

With the unit unplugged, I found that the resistance between 1 and each of the other pins, 2-5, is around 400 ohms. The resistance between every pair of 2 through 4 is around 780-790 ohms - I tried all 6 possible combinations just for the heck of it and found them all to be the same reading.

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 The resistance between every pair of 2 through 4 is around 780-790 ohms - I tried all 6 possible combinations just for the heck of it and found them all to be the same reading.

I meant to say 2-5, ie all but the first pin

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I'm not sure what the resistance should be..., maybe on the coil itself... test shoukd be 2 to 3 and then 4 to 5. But if you aren't getting cooling in neither side then it's not a switching problem.

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I just called another local appliance repair company to try to get in touch with a specific guy (Todd) who I'm told is knowledgable about Samsung appliances. Their google reviews gave me pause, except that this specific guy is praised in their one and only good review.

I couldn't talk to Todd directly, and the office manager told me that they don't work on Samsung. At all. "We tried that twice and it didn't go well for us." 

 

I guess Samsung makes some scary appliances. I already submitted a service ticket to Samsung yesterday. If they don't get to me by the end of the work day then I'll be calling them (they're supposed to give 24hr turn around). What was strange is that the online form told me, based upon my serial number, that both warranties (parts and labor) were only 12 months. And also that it was manufactured in March 2007.

I swear I saw somewhere that one of those 2 warranties was 5 years, which is also what DurhamAppliance thought off the top of his head. More importantly, how ridiculous is a 1 year warranty on a $2500 appliance? (Don't worry, I paid less than half that. ... still though)

 

In the meantime, I'm gonna start searching these forums for new fridge recommendations, hedging my bets against Samsung finding me a repair company that I'm comfortable with.

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that brings you back to Sears.

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Is the compressor actually operating???  you can git yer self a 'clamp-on ' amp meter just to verify......The evaporator in this neck of the woods sells for 140 clam$...'But it is special order'....................Sealed system repairs are easy to do, it is how the system is designed.............. The Samsungs' and the L.G.'s never leave enough  of the tube coming out of the wall to work with.......1800 deg. flame two inches from plastic,  with you out of the box reaching into the rear..................With the last one I did, I was laying on my side, 1/3 of me in the bottom freezer section.................I said I ain't doing domestic sealed systems  any more.......I just did a reach-in cooler, ( commercial )  sitting on the floor, no kink in my neck, all of the parts with in reach......In the 3 hours of "sealed system" repair, ( a recharge=250 clam$ )..............a bizzy tech can clear more money in the same time......

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What does the refrigerator compartment thermistor read?

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he posted the values earlier and I finally got a chance to check them out. It doesn't appear to be a fresh food sensor but the cf sensor is waayyy off. I believe that is the custom freezer compartment.

It is not intuitive and doesn't make sense this particular sensor can cause this problem but sensors can cause wacky things to happen, including a complete shutdown. Since the sensor is still operational (no short) it will not cause an error code but can do other odd things.

Btw Dalbert, great job in posting that info!

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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I'm searching the samsung tech training pdf for some pictures to show me where the sensors are, but I'm not finding much. I already pulled off what must be the defrost sensor, the one that's visible and attached to the evaporator with a plastic clip. The one I really need is "CF Sensor", which I think is also referred to as "CF Room Sensor". Where is it?

 

The connector for the defrost sensor that I removed was bundled with 2 other connectors right by the CF evaporator. Might those other 2 connectors be the other sensors (so I can just follow their wires)? One of those connectors goes to the right side of the evap and appears to be a defrost thermostat, which I understand to be not what I'm looking for. I can't see where the wires to the left terminate.

 

Here's a photo of everything I'm talking about.

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the da32-00006w is okay to use all throughout the samsung except for the pantry room sensor. All others are interchangeable with the only difference being the length of the wire and possibly the color. Samsung advises to get the 6a32-00006w simply because it has the longest wire .   The local shop , dl parts , currently  has one and only one in stock. You better get it before I do or you gonna have to wait til next week... lol

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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Perhaps I was way off. There's another pair of yellow wires that are part of the styrofoam/plastic back panel of the freezer compartment. I those might be the CF Room Sensor.

Worse yet, I just attached that connector and rechecked the voltage. it was 2.08v/59.9degrees. I'm pretty sure I had this panel removed, and thus that sensor disconnected, during my sensor voltage monitoring test. Sorry fellas.

 

I'm gonna reassemble some of this thing and check a few voltages.

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Oye. 

When the connector at the top of the freezer is connected it reads 2.1v. When it's disconnected I get 5.6v

I wouldn't have thought that a disconnected sensor would read anything at all.

Lesson learned. 

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Now I know why I had so many sealed system jobs when I worked for Sears. No one wants to them so they send everyone to Sears :) I swear I did 2 a day for almost 2 weeks straight. Mainly brand new dual evap Whirlpools though. What really ticked me off was other companies had come out and diagnosed it as a sealed system, and never once told me that until I rediagnosed it. Nothing like arriving on a sealed system job at 6:30pm and a 2 hour drive home after. They usually take me 2-3 hours.

Edited by BryanS

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Oye. 

When the connector at the top of the freezer is connected it reads 2.1v. When it's disconnected I get 5.6v

I wouldn't have thought that a disconnected sensor would read anything at all.

Lesson learned. 

Oh, duh. Of course it reads something. There's a supplied voltage and the thermistor provides variable resistance to restrict that voltage. So when disconnected it receives the full supplied voltage. Sometimes I let my basic knowledge fly out the window when I'm working on something new and foreign, as if these things aren't just big boxes of basic electronic components.

Again, apologies.

Also, thanks to all of you for thinking so hard on this problem. When I first found this forum I would never have expected such generosity from strangers. You guys really want to fix things, and I really admire that.

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That is what we are here for!!!

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Dalbert, Having never worked on your model, it looks like you have SxS with 4 compartments and 4 evaps. 2 in the left ff compartment and 2 in the right freezer compartment. The two compartments on the bottom can be converted... either both as fridges or as freezers or one each.

So when you are saying "top of the freezer" do you mean on the top evap in the left side (freezer)? If so, that does not appear to be the sensor I was talking about. CF is convertible freezer sensor sometimes called Arctic zone sensor is . Not sure where it is located but I suspect it is either at the bottom of the freezer section on in the bottom left compartment. Tested on pins 5-7. What is 5-7 reading now?

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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