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Samsung RM255LASH/XAA - Compressor works, no air flow and no cooling inside fridge/freezer


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51 replies to this topic

#21 dalbert

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:08 PM

I would concentrate on thermistors before changing the board. Samsung board failures are quite rare however you may want to check for voltage from the board to the 3 way valve as well as test the 3 way valve itself. Procedures should be in the fast track.

I'm not seeing anything about a 3-way valve in the fast track or the bigger Samsung PDFs. Are you referring to the device that switches the compressor between 2 different modes? I can't remember how to describe it, but at some point during yesterday's googling I read something about the thing in this photo, circled in red.Is that what you're talking about?

 

I checked the voltages of all the wire pairs for which a target voltage was given in the fast track on the "CN30" connector. They all seem reasonable given the temps that I think are in the compartments (I don't have a temp probe to precisely measure the real temps). I haven't checked resistances, I guess I'll do that next.



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#22 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:17 PM

that's it. on page 1 of the fast track you see it in the drawing listed as "3 way valve."

CN 75 on the board controls it.... how do we know since the board markup on page 4 doesn't refer to cn75 as the valve connector? Look at the schematics on page 9. There you see it, but this time it is called a stepper motor valve and it is called out at CN 75. Easy Peasy... lol.. yeah right.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 March 2014 - 02:20 PM.

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#23 dalbert

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 05:15 PM

I see, thanks for the clarification. Ok, so CN75 - Checking voltage between the black pin and all the others I get nothing. I tried both by probing the back of the connector and by removing the connector and touching the pins sticking out of the board. I also tried checking the resistance while the connector was off, and got nothing. Stayed at a solid 1 for all of them.

If I use the black wire in CN78 as my ground, then I get 13.5 vdc on every one of CN75's pins (connector attached, not sure if that matters).

 

I don't actually know what I'm supposed to be doing, I just figured I'd start by getting all the voltages. This should mean that the 3-way diverter valve is getting power, right?

Now how do I test the diverter itself?



#24 Applianceman97

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 05:30 PM

Check the voltage of the evap thermistors and then find the corresponding temp on the temp chart. Then turn on power cool and power freeze and see if the temp lowers on the evap. (Monitor voltages at thermistors.) if your temp lowers on the evaporator your diverter is good. Turning on power cool and power freeze flows refrigerant to both compartments.
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#25 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:32 PM

Pins 2-3 is a coil and should show some continuity.  The same with 4-5.  Voltage is on pin 1. From your test,  it appears the coils are okay. (voltage passing through them from line 1 shows continuity among the coils ).  Now we need to determine if voltage is sent to move the valve.... Applianceman provided the procedure and you can find it on pages 6 and 7 here:  http://appliantology...nical-training/


Edited by DurhamAppliance, 02 March 2014 - 06:43 PM.

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#26 dalbert

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:47 PM

I may be able to test the diverter in the morning before work, but time is tight.

The diverter is part of the sealed system, right? So even if it is faulty I can't fix it myself anyhow? Looks like I have to throw in the towel on this one.

DurhamAppliance, my wife tells me that Google tells her that you're the best in the area. We'll be calling you tomorrow.



#27 Applianceman97

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:55 PM

Google is correct!!!
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#28 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:32 PM

But not when it comes to sealed system repairs! 


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#29 dalbert

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Posted 03 March 2014 - 08:48 AM

I finally cracked open the evaps on the fridge side last night, since leaving all the food in there was becoming futile. Here are pics of what I saw.

The condensation seen in several places is normal, right? That's what the defrosters are for? 

 

I'll try the temp-monitoring test on the 3way diverter this afternoon, but if that thing works fine then what's next?

I feel like I've run out of things to test, though of course a pro would be able to do much more I'm sure. I'll read through more of these Samsung guides as time allows.

 

 

Somewhat off topic: do you guys have a favorite infrared temperature gun?



#30 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 03 March 2014 - 10:44 AM

I would like to see a picture of the entire evap to check out the full frost pattern.  Looks like some cooling is occurring so I suspect the valve is switching but I need to take a better look . If  some cooling is occurring ,we  need to make sure the valve is switching properly.  That would be a function of the sensors.  If they all test fine then we are probably looking at a restriction in the line somewhere between the valve and the freezer evap.

 

I have several ir guns but my favorite is   the fluke 62 max  $85 bucks on amazon I reviewed it here   http://appliantology.org/topic/44635-fluke-62-max-and-max-ir-thermometers/?hl=%2Bfluke+%2Bir


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#31 dalbert

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Posted 03 March 2014 - 06:08 PM

Here are the voltage readings from the sensors while power cool and power freeze were on.

The fridge had been off for a while preceding this, so for the first 3 measurements I left it with the settings it has when it starts up. Then I cranked up all the cooling options, which I noted in the linked spreadsheet. I highlighted in red the sensors that actually changed at all, and the labels on the far left are what the picture in the fast track names them. I also translated the red voltages to rough temperatures based on the chart in the fast track. I'm not exactly understanding what I should be looking for here, but I'm guessing we'd like to see larger temperature swings here?

 

Here's a photo of the full evap stack on the fridge side. The unit had been running for almost 2 hours, and with Power Cool on for almost 1.5 hours. There's a light frosting on the copper tube at the top. While we're looking at it: the yellow wires leading into a plastic clip - is that one of the temp sensors? Perhaps "R Def Sensor"?


Edited by dalbert, 03 March 2014 - 06:09 PM.


#32 dalbert

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 09:00 AM

So I called Durham Appliance and Thrift (local appliantologists) yesterday to see if they could give me a reference for someone to fix a sealed system problem, just in case that turns out to be the problem. The fella said Sears. Is that right? Do you have to call sears to fix sealed systems?

 

Given everything I've tested, what do you guys think are the odds that I can get this fixed by my local repairman (ie that it's still not a sealed system problem)?



#33 Applianceman97

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 09:34 AM

It depends on the area. Not many repairmen do sealed system work. It is very time consuming and most people do not want pay the $600 to $800 repair bill. I tell everyone in my area sears as well. There isn't a local guy in my area that does a good sealed job. If you were to fix your machine I would call sears as well. Each tech know his market well. If Durham says sears is the best in his area, I would believe it. We are here to help on this site not hurt. Hope it all turns out well.
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#34 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 09:39 AM

you spoke with my office manager. There are many non-reputable companies in the area and many of the reputable ones do not work on Samsungs. He provided you with a reputable company that also works on Samsungs but some of their techs may not necessarily be competent. Call the office again and ask to speak with Ty. If I am not in or if I'm unavailable, make sure to leave your number and I will return your call. I will discuss this with my parts house and hopefully they will provide me with a name or two.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 04 March 2014 - 09:52 AM.

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#35 dalbert

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 03:22 PM

It's looking like this just might be a sealed system problem, but just for completeness I'm posting here the results of my resistance check on the coils.

From the fasttrack motherboard picture, we have:

  • CN75
    • 1 +12VDC (Red)  [previously tested to GND and found to have 13.5 volts]
    • 2 Coil A (Blk)
    • 3 Coil A Inverse (Yel)
    • 4 Coil B (Org)
    • 5 Coil B Inverse (Blu)

With the unit unplugged, I found that the resistance between 1 and each of the other pins, 2-5, is around 400 ohms. The resistance between every pair of 2 through 4 is around 780-790 ohms - I tried all 6 possible combinations just for the heck of it and found them all to be the same reading.



#36 dalbert

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 07:46 PM

 The resistance between every pair of 2 through 4 is around 780-790 ohms - I tried all 6 possible combinations just for the heck of it and found them all to be the same reading.

I meant to say 2-5, ie all but the first pin



#37 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 09:01 PM

I'm not sure what the resistance should be..., maybe on the coil itself... test shoukd be 2 to 3 and then 4 to 5. But if you aren't getting cooling in neither side then it's not a switching problem.

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#38 dalbert

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 12:25 PM

I just called another local appliance repair company to try to get in touch with a specific guy (Todd) who I'm told is knowledgable about Samsung appliances. Their google reviews gave me pause, except that this specific guy is praised in their one and only good review.

I couldn't talk to Todd directly, and the office manager told me that they don't work on Samsung. At all. "We tried that twice and it didn't go well for us." 

 

I guess Samsung makes some scary appliances. I already submitted a service ticket to Samsung yesterday. If they don't get to me by the end of the work day then I'll be calling them (they're supposed to give 24hr turn around). What was strange is that the online form told me, based upon my serial number, that both warranties (parts and labor) were only 12 months. And also that it was manufactured in March 2007.

I swear I saw somewhere that one of those 2 warranties was 5 years, which is also what DurhamAppliance thought off the top of his head. More importantly, how ridiculous is a 1 year warranty on a $2500 appliance? (Don't worry, I paid less than half that. ... still though)

 

In the meantime, I'm gonna start searching these forums for new fridge recommendations, hedging my bets against Samsung finding me a repair company that I'm comfortable with.



#39 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 03:51 PM

that brings you back to Sears.

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#40 certified tech group 51

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 05:54 PM

Is the compressor actually operating???  you can git yer self a 'clamp-on ' amp meter just to verify......The evaporator in this neck of the woods sells for 140 clam$...'But it is special order'....................Sealed system repairs are easy to do, it is how the system is designed.............. The Samsungs' and the L.G.'s never leave enough  of the tube coming out of the wall to work with.......1800 deg. flame two inches from plastic,  with you out of the box reaching into the rear..................With the last one I did, I was laying on my side, 1/3 of me in the bottom freezer section.................I said I ain't doing domestic sealed systems  any more.......I just did a reach-in cooler, ( commercial )  sitting on the floor, no kink in my neck, all of the parts with in reach......In the 3 hours of "sealed system" repair, ( a recharge=250 clam$ )..............a bizzy tech can clear more money in the same time......






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