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Samsung RM255LASH/XAA - Compressor works, no air flow and no cooling inside fridge/freezer


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51 replies to this topic

#41 Applianceman97

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 02:04 AM

What does the refrigerator compartment thermistor read?
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#42 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 07:28 AM

he posted the values earlier and I finally got a chance to check them out. It doesn't appear to be a fresh food sensor but the cf sensor is waayyy off. I believe that is the custom freezer compartment.

It is not intuitive and doesn't make sense this particular sensor can cause this problem but sensors can cause wacky things to happen, including a complete shutdown. Since the sensor is still operational (no short) it will not cause an error code but can do other odd things.

Btw Dalbert, great job in posting that info!

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 06 March 2014 - 07:37 AM.

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#43 dalbert

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 04:33 PM

I'm searching the samsung tech training pdf for some pictures to show me where the sensors are, but I'm not finding much. I already pulled off what must be the defrost sensor, the one that's visible and attached to the evaporator with a plastic clip. The one I really need is "CF Sensor", which I think is also referred to as "CF Room Sensor". Where is it?

 

The connector for the defrost sensor that I removed was bundled with 2 other connectors right by the CF evaporator. Might those other 2 connectors be the other sensors (so I can just follow their wires)? One of those connectors goes to the right side of the evap and appears to be a defrost thermostat, which I understand to be not what I'm looking for. I can't see where the wires to the left terminate.

 

Here's a photo of everything I'm talking about.



#44 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 04:57 PM

the da32-00006w is okay to use all throughout the samsung except for the pantry room sensor. All others are interchangeable with the only difference being the length of the wire and possibly the color. Samsung advises to get the 6a32-00006w simply because it has the longest wire .   The local shop , dl parts , currently  has one and only one in stock. You better get it before I do or you gonna have to wait til next week... lol


Edited by DurhamAppliance, 06 March 2014 - 04:59 PM.

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#45 dalbert

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 04:59 PM

Perhaps I was way off. There's another pair of yellow wires that are part of the styrofoam/plastic back panel of the freezer compartment. I those might be the CF Room Sensor.

Worse yet, I just attached that connector and rechecked the voltage. it was 2.08v/59.9degrees. I'm pretty sure I had this panel removed, and thus that sensor disconnected, during my sensor voltage monitoring test. Sorry fellas.

 

I'm gonna reassemble some of this thing and check a few voltages.



#46 dalbert

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 05:11 PM

Oye. 

When the connector at the top of the freezer is connected it reads 2.1v. When it's disconnected I get 5.6v

I wouldn't have thought that a disconnected sensor would read anything at all.

Lesson learned. 



#47 BryanS

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 05:12 PM

Now I know why I had so many sealed system jobs when I worked for Sears. No one wants to them so they send everyone to Sears :) I swear I did 2 a day for almost 2 weeks straight. Mainly brand new dual evap Whirlpools though. What really ticked me off was other companies had come out and diagnosed it as a sealed system, and never once told me that until I rediagnosed it. Nothing like arriving on a sealed system job at 6:30pm and a 2 hour drive home after. They usually take me 2-3 hours.

Edited by BryanS, 06 March 2014 - 05:13 PM.


#48 dalbert

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 05:17 PM

Oye. 

When the connector at the top of the freezer is connected it reads 2.1v. When it's disconnected I get 5.6v

I wouldn't have thought that a disconnected sensor would read anything at all.

Lesson learned. 

Oh, duh. Of course it reads something. There's a supplied voltage and the thermistor provides variable resistance to restrict that voltage. So when disconnected it receives the full supplied voltage. Sometimes I let my basic knowledge fly out the window when I'm working on something new and foreign, as if these things aren't just big boxes of basic electronic components.

Again, apologies.

Also, thanks to all of you for thinking so hard on this problem. When I first found this forum I would never have expected such generosity from strangers. You guys really want to fix things, and I really admire that.



#49 Applianceman97

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 09:10 PM

That is what we are here for!!!
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#50 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 11:59 PM

Dalbert, Having never worked on your model, it looks like you have SxS with 4 compartments and 4 evaps. 2 in the left ff compartment and 2 in the right freezer compartment. The two compartments on the bottom can be converted... either both as fridges or as freezers or one each.

So when you are saying "top of the freezer" do you mean on the top evap in the left side (freezer)? If so, that does not appear to be the sensor I was talking about. CF is convertible freezer sensor sometimes called Arctic zone sensor is . Not sure where it is located but I suspect it is either at the bottom of the freezer section on in the bottom left compartment. Tested on pins 5-7. What is 5-7 reading now?

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 07 March 2014 - 02:30 AM.

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#51 dalbert

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 08:46 AM

It's reading 2.09v now, with the back panel of the freezer connected. You can see in this photo that the first time I checked sensors I noted the difference between having the back panel connected/disconnected. I forgot about this when I later did the voltage monitoring test with Power Cool turned on.

 

The sensor connector is near the top of the main freezer compartment, and its wires go into the plastic and styrofoam panel that spans the full height of both freezer compartment. I don't know where the sensor actually is, it's embedded in that panel somewhere. Makes sense: the "Room" sensor must be checking the ambient temperature of the compartment, so it's not on either evap. It's somewhere in the middle.

 

Btw, Samsung got back to me (late, they were supposed to respond within 24 hours). Their was simply "call this number". So sending them detailed info did no good. The guy I talked to was just your typical tech support guy, reading a script, repeating precisely the same limiting options I had already selected on the website to poorly describe my problem. All he did was give me an 800 number for A&E Service, a nation-wide chain. Their reviews are awful. I'm not interested in paying them, and my wife in a hurry to get the fridge back b/c soon it'll be too warm to store food and breast milk in the garage. 

 

So, I'll blow our tax return on a new one. Most likely this one. The markup on fridges is astounding.

 

I'll try to salvage some interested bits from the samsung. Since all these temperature sensors are apparently fine I'll take those for some future electronics projects. And I'm looking for someone to remove the coolant from the system so I can keep the compressor - I've found instructions for turning it into a vacuum pump which will make for some nifty science projects with my son when he's older.



#52 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 09:52 AM

cool.... thanks for the detailed info! As you can tell, this is not a commonly found fridge. Although we are currently unable to find a way sans sealed system repair to solve your problem, your info has now been added to our collective knowledge base. Maybe it will allow us to help someone in the future.

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