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KitchenAid KSRS25QAWH01 Evaporator Fan Problem

Evaporator Fan

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7 replies to this topic

#1 tjoeturner

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 10:21 AM

I am trying to repair an older Kitchenaid (KSRS25QAWH01) side by side refrigerator.  Initially, I found it plugged in and the compressor running and the condenser fan running.  When I opened the freezer door the evap fan was not running. I pulled the fan and tested it with the result being the fan is good.  During that inspection I noticed the evap coils had a light frost on them (no ice buildup). I then dropped the control panel to examine the adaptive defrost timer. There was no obvious burnt marks but still ordered a new one and installed.  When I fired up the refrigerator I waited about 10 minutes and still the evap fan did not start.  One thing I noticed was when I pulled the connector from the control panel and had the freezer door open the fan started running.  When I pressed the door switch the fan quit running.  One other thing, I found the door switch on the refrigerator side was broken as you can see in the picture.  I repaired and checked that switch and it is working properly as well but none of the lights come on in the refrigerator or freezer. HELP!



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#2 tjoeturner

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 10:37 AM

Ref01.png

 

sorry it took me a moment to get this image into this thread...



#3 certified tech group 51

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 11:05 AM

Do the lights work in the fresh food section...Door open- lights on????                 The compressor and the condenser have a different neutral then the evap motor and the interior lights.............Get your self a jumper wire with a circuit breaker  ( see The Tool Box---------Do Not waste fuses )...............Attach one end to a neutral wire..........I.E. door switch or the light.......touch the other end to the ground ( green wire ).............. do the lights come on???......Seen quite a few of these units with a broke  neutral wire some where in the circuit....................  .



#4 tjoeturner

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 11:18 AM

Ha-Ha...that may be why the fresh food section light was removed, the refrigerator door switch was broken so then the fresh food light would have stayed on.  I replaced the upper section light and was expecting it to come on when I plugged the refrigerator in but it did not. I will try the jumper this afternoon.

 

thanks for the insight...



#5 tjoeturner

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 11:13 AM

I am surer of my ignorance than ever…

 

Ok, well I followed all the green wires (I did NOT jumper across a white wire and the ground as suggested) and checked for continuity from the refrigerator control area, chassis and even the hinges and it checked good all the way to the evap area, fan etc.  still no lights anywhere.  I checked to see if a previous repairman had reversed the freezer door switch since when you disconnect the coupling (red arrow in previous drawing) and the evap fan would come on only when the door was open. It was wired properly as well.

 

By the way, when you disconnect the coupling (power on) the compressor shuts down along with the condenser fan.  Honestly the lights really trouble me on this one.  I know that someone has worked on the refrigerator before. Notice the blue tape over one of the unused connectors in the adaptive defrost control area in this picture below.  This is the old adaptive control.

Img_0767.jpg



#6 -Mike-

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 03:05 AM

The tape on the connector is from the factory. All these refrigerators have that there.

If you can get to the evaporator fan with the fan not running, but with the compressor running, check if you're not getting power or not getting a netural to it. Put one meter lead on  on the power wire for the fan and one lead to ground and see what you get.  Then put one lead on the  the netural wire of the evaporator fan and one lead to ground and see if you have voltage then.



#7 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 06:02 AM

Just for a little more info, the plug with the tape over it, (tape is from the factory as Mike states), that is a plug to use for testing.  If the unit is warm and you want to test the defrost circuit or if the defrost t-stat is bad, jumping that connector simulates a closed defrost t-stat.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#8 tjoeturner

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 08:54 PM

Thanks you guys, from what I can gather, it seems terminal 3 or the red wire goes to the evap fan.  so if i find voltage there and continuity in the wire from there to the evap fan it has to be on the other side of the motor.  That is a white wire which pretty much comes directly from the back of the fridge where the power connection is located.  I am going to test that tomorrow.







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