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LG LDF6920ST dishwasher help!


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Lutus

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:03 PM

My dishwasher is possessed. There, got that out of my system... :)

I have replaced the motor and all the seals in the sump assembly. I am now running through the diagnostic test modes and i believe there is something up when I run the water inlet valve test. The technician manual says that it will fill with water until the display reads around 285 and the water should shut off.

When I run the test the water inlet is constantly running, the digits keep counting well past 285 and every 10 seconds or so I can hear water draining into my garbage disposal. Why does the water start draining during the inlet test?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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#2 john63

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:20 PM

<<<I have replaced the motor and all the seals in the sump assembly.>>>

 

**********

 

What were the original symptoms/error message---before the Wash Motor was replaced?

 

**********

 

<<<When I run the test the water inlet is constantly running, the digits keep counting well past 285 and every 10 seconds or so I can hear water draining into my garbage disposal.>>>

 

**********

 

Is this a new symptom---or the same/identical symptom as before?

 

What is the Serial Number?


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Lutus

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:33 PM

SN 010kwuc05606.

The original issue was a squeal from the motor. Also, there was very little pressure from the water coming out of the arms (upper tray dishes dry after cycle). Looking back, I did not do enough troubleshooting but I decided to replace the motor and since I knew I was going in deep I might as well replace all the gaskets while I was in there.

I do remember the dishwasher draining quite a lot at random times throughout the cycle.

#4 Lutus

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 10:57 PM

John I just saw this thread... http://appliantology...sher-lds5811ww/

I will check the door wiring, is the float assembly worth investigating?

#5 john63

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Posted 07 March 2014 - 11:09 PM

Built October 2010

 

**********

 

<<<The original issue was a squeal from the motor.>>>

 

**********

 

Most likely caused by the Chopper (incorrect shape)

 

Original Chopper part number is (5832DD4001A)

 

Revised/corrected Chopper part number is Part number: AP5331980

Part number: AP5331980

 

This resolves noise symptoms during the Wash Cycle...

 

Whistling

Whine

Grinding

 

**********

 

<<<Also, there was very little pressure from the water coming out of the arms (upper tray dishes dry after cycle).>>>

 

<<<I do remember the dishwasher draining quite a lot at random times throughout the cycle.>>>

 

**********

 

Caused by a *defect* in the Guide Assembly (Part manufacturer/supplier "snafu" )

 

On LG LDF6920 dishwashers with Serial Numbers ranging from 090KWxxx to 101KWxxx...

 

All Guide Assys are defective.

 

Replace the Guide Assy Part number: AP4442244

Part number: AP4442244

 

Verify that the BUILD DATE is January 27, 2011 or newer (date stamp on Guide Assy)

 

Replacing the Guide Assy eliminates the following symptoms...

 

"E1" error

Air Sucking Sounds

POOR Wash Performance

Random/Intermittent Water Leak at the door


John I just saw this thread... http://appliantology...sher-lds5811ww/

I will check the door wiring, is the float assembly worth investigating?

 

An older LG dishwasher---has a different "history" than the LDF6920...


Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 07 March 2014 - 11:07 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 Lutus

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 03:05 PM

I have ordered both parts and will update this post once the parts are in hand and installed.

 

If this doesn't work I think I will order this part next...  Ultimate_Dishwasher_Repair_Tool



#7 john63

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 07:20 PM

<<<If this doesn't work I think I will order this part next...  Ultimate_Dishwasher_Repair_Tool>>>

 
**********
 
Very high tech :)

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 Lutus

Lutus

    Samanera

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  • Location: USA
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Posted 13 March 2014 - 09:33 PM

I got the parts in the mail and installed them in the dishwasher.  I left the dishwasher pulled out from the cabinet and ran the test mode for the water inlet.  It filled the washer much better and I didn't hear the sucking sound I heard previously.

 

...BUT...

 

The washer inlet value on the display was counting well past where it should cut off, so I looked over at the float assembly and water was all over the floor!!!  There was a crack in the new float assembly where the two reservoirs clip together.  It seems that at some point in this parts life it received some rotational torque which caused the plastic to crack where they clip together.  So....

 

Called AppliancePartsPro.com a few minutes ago (9 PM) and receiver truly great customer service.  They are sending another part out to me tomorrow and a discount on the next order.  :)  Can't say enough about the guy I talked with (Chris) at APP.com.  

 

Once again I will update when I get it all back together this weekend.  Thanks again for the help. 



#9 john63

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Posted 13 March 2014 - 09:41 PM

Now that you have the original and replacement Guide Assy...

 

Place both on a table---side by side with the hose/outlets facing upward.

 

Using a flashlight---examine the area of the Guide at the "south/center" location.

 

You'll find the faux pas on the original---a *gap* in the water route/pathway---that should NOT be there :)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 Lutus

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 04:59 PM

Received the replacement part from AppliancePartsPro.  Installed the part and ran a complete cycle.  The dishwasher is running well.  

 

I will update this post again after a couple of wash cycles but I am fairly confident and that it is fixed!!!   :rocker:

 

Thanks John for your help!  My wife is VERY pleased.  :wub:



#11 john63

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Posted 15 March 2014 - 10:21 PM

Great job !


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 Lutus

Lutus

    Samanera

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  • 7 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sweet tea

Posted 19 March 2014 - 09:35 AM

Update:  I have successfully had 4 or 5 dish washing celebrations (it works) so far!  Glad this thing is working instead of hand washing dishes.

 

I also was logging on to edit the first post but it doesn't look like that it is an option.  I wanted to clarify some of the things I stated in the first post.

 

Feel free to correct the following couple paragraphs if I am wrong....

 

The water inlet test value is not displayed on the LCD display as I was saying in the first post.  The value of 285, referenced in the documentation, is the FREQUENCY of the 'water wheel' in the float assembly.  In layman terms, it is how fast the water is going through the water inlet valve, into the float assembly, and ultimately into the dishwasher chamber.  I don't know exactly where this frequency value is measured (maybe on a multimeter?).

 

The original post also mentioned that I heard water draining during the inlet test...  I probably was hearing the 'air sucking' noise because of the poor float assembly design.  But the water inlet test is also designed to drain the water during the test, otherwise the dishwasher chamber would fill with water if you let the test run indefinitely.

 

Hope this helps anyone who stumbles across this forum post in the future.  Always check for recalls or updates based on your model and serial number, this applies to everything you buy, not just appliances. 

 

Thanks again to this board and to AppliancePartsPro.com.



#13 john63

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 10:45 AM

<<<Why does the water start draining during the inlet test?>>>

 

**********

 

During water fill---the Flow Meter (Hall Effect Sensor) is spinning/measuring the amount of water entering the tub.

 

The defect in the Guide Assy---is a *gap* in the water channel/pathway.

 

This gap---incorrectly allows water to enter the chamber of the Float Assy that has a *switch* on it.

 

The SWITCH on the Float Assy---activates the Drain Motor---if too much water enters the Float Assy.

 

The Main Board is "waiting" for the signal count from the Flow Meter---to indicate that the tub is full before beginning the cycle.

 

Since the "overflow chamber" keeps filling faster than the actual water fill in the tub---the dishwasher keeps filling and draining.


Edited by john63, 19 March 2014 - 11:07 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 john63

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 07:35 PM

Okay---done work today...

 

Part 2

 

So...

 

When the dishwasher is in fill mode---the Guide Assy Hall Sensor is "counting" the amount of water entering the tub---meanwhile some of the water is being incorrectly routed into the Overflow Float Chamber.

 

The switch on the Overflow/Float "closes"---which activates the Drain Motor.

 

During "emergency drain mode"---the Main Board *does not* change or alter the original "count" of water that has flowed through the Hall Sensor (retains that data).

 

Once the Float Chamber empties---Water Fill resumes---until "emergency drain" kicks in again.

 

After two or three times---the water fill "count" (at the Main Board) indicates that the tub has filled with water.

 

In actuality---there may be half the amount of water in the tub than should be.

 

Cycle begins to wash---a gurgling/sucking sound is heard.

 

Dishes are NOT getting clean (insufficient water)


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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